[rallison203]

Success! Thanks guys, couldn't have done it without you.

I pulled off the TC from underneath so I could understand what I was up against. I could then see this trans input shaft with three steps, the inner two of which were splined.

So I wiped the surfaces, applied a thin coat of multifunction grease and wiggled and leveled it over and over with slight rearward pressure. Finally it just popped in. It was obvious when it happened.

I'll torque everything down and install the TC bolts tomorrow. Thanks again folks.

 

[rallison203]

See these two threads. The engine is a different Zuk engine but the oil seal tools and technique appear similar to the V-6.

Rear Main Oil Seal tool???

Hello to all. New to this site. I have a couple of questions about replacement of the rear main oil seal on my 1998 Suzuki Sidekick JLX 4X4 with automatic transmission. After doing a bit of online research I found that it has been recommended that a Oil Seal Installer #09911-97811 and Oil...

www.suzuki-forums.com

Sidekick Sport J18 engine install

I noticed I didn't say anything about my Sidekick Sport after buying it. I had it on the road after changing the front tie rods and rims. ...

m000035.blogspot.com

HA that's amazing, I used a section of PVC pipe too!

That layered PVC tool is the way to go. I may have to give that a try next time.

 

[2013GV]

Don't use any form of grease on the torque converter splines...ever....they are bathed in trans fluid when the car starts.

If you need to, plain atf, or very rarely some vaseline on the snout to ease it into the seal.

Take it off and clean as much grease off as you can, it will gel and block the oil passages in the pump, I have seen it destroy the sealing O rings on the pump stator which contro,s the main pressure supply line and torque converter supply and torque converter clutch application supply.

Screwdriver and rag to get as much off in the converter itself. Depending on how much you used. A bit the size if a pea will cause no end of transmission issues, especially if its a molybdenum disulphide based grease.

 

[rallison203]

Don't use any form of grease on the torque converter splines...ever....they are bathed in trans fluid when the car starts.

If you need to, plain atf, or very rarely some vaseline on the snout to ease it into the seal.

Take it off and clean as much grease off as you can, it will gel and block the oil passages in the pump, I have seen it destroy the sealing O rings on the pump stator which contro,s the main pressure supply line and torque converter supply and torque converter clutch application supply.

Screwdriver and rag to get as much off in the converter itself. Depending on how much you used. A bit the size if a pea will cause no end of transmission issues, especially if its a molybdenum disulphide based grease.

Thanks, good info.

You can imagine I'm not super excited to hear this.

I looked at the GM manual. No discussion.

I need to sleep on this one.

And thankfully no I didn't use that type of grease.

 

[2013GV]

The other thing the grease can do is mix with the trans fluid and coat the clutches leading to slipping. Doesn't need much.

Vaseline dissolves in trans fluid and is safe to use.

 

[Max]

I don't think that I'd panic if a tiny amount of grease.

 

[rallison203]

You mean, THAT grease?

Since I'm looking at it, what else should I do?

How important / difficult is it to replace the TC seal? So far I haven't found any local in stock.

 

[rallison203]

I thought the seal was inside the torque converter!!

The seal were talking about - it's inside the bell housing?? This one's dry. I can coat it with ATF?

I turned the TC upside down and it's slowly draining old crappy smelling ATF. I rotate it every few minutes. I assume then I should refill it with a similar amount of ATF?

Anything else?

 

[aquanaut20]

When installed and the transmission is filled, the pump will fill the TC. No need to prefill

 

[2013GV]

Atf on the seal, its a pain to try and replace yourself as alignment is critical. Remember to check and top up trans before driving it tho, as Philip says, it will re fill
Plain white vaseline on the converter snout tube is probably the best, just a light smear us all you need as that will help the converter slide into the seal

And yes, that grease, bit too much, you don't actually need any.

Do not, under any circumstances unto those bolts on that front plate that holds the seal. That holds the transmission together and you're in for major work if you do. I have unfortunately seen people undo them thinking its a plate that holds the seal. It's not, its the whole pump and stator assembly, behind that is the first set of clutch drums and the band.

 

[Max]

From the Zuk Tranny Service Manual...

Note distance measurements and grease references:

Transmission and axle manual

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[Max]

And I would certainly pre-fill the torque converter to improve fill time and lessen the chance of running the pump dry.

 

[2013GV]

Pump should already be primed as it was running. Pump is driven from converter, input shaft wont start to to rotate until Converter has oil in it. Simpler to add about 3/4 of what was drained to the trans before start then check level later. Pre filling Converter makes them even heavier and its so easy to slosh oil everywhere when installing it.

Its no different to filling a new oil filter after an oil change via the engine oil pump.

in this case, It will fill the Converter in a few seconds

 

[rallison203]

I refilled it with clean ATF, nearly the same as the amount drained. It just burps down as you add fluid. Takes a few minutes. Slipped right back on after a few turns.

What's goofy is that the impellers (or whatever they're called, inside the TC) turn while you're adding rearward pressure. You have to back off the pressure a bit to rotate the TC back onto the multi-splined input shaft.

I cleaned the trans seal with ATF on a q-tip. Some sludge came out. All the grease is cleaned off everything except a dab on the pilot.

Engine went back in smoothly. All engine-to- trans fasteners and TC bolts torqued down. Good place to stop and make notes.

Good lesson, thanks guys.

 

[2013GV]

Yeah, you have several components inside the tc, stator impeller is on the big splines
Rotor is the free to move one on the small spline shaft, thats the one that actually puts drive into the transmission

Google you tube videos on torque converter and auto transmission operation.

As you have found, getting the input splines into mesh with the impeller is the first issue, then you have to get the stator splines lined up, then the pump dogs. Well done

Pilot doesmt move, anything on there is just to stop it rusting onto the end of the crankshaft

 

[rallison203]

Thankfully I had some help.

 

[rallison203]

Hey can someone tell me, what's best practice for sealing coolant neck gaskets like this?

This is the flange that goes to the upper radiator hose.

I would install this gasket as shown, with gray sealant on the thermostat housing only. None on the coolant neck, so it can be removed and reinstalled with no messy gasket material on one side?

If that's not right, then I don't understand the purpose of these gaskets.

I have a paper-only gasket but I wanted to use this one.

 

[Max]

I'd skim coat both sides with the intention of not having to go back in unless for overhaul or thermostat renewal. Hopefully never, in other words.

 

[rallison203]

I was curious about the blue ring so I called Felpro customer service. He said no sealant on either side.

So I did as you say, and put a skim coat on both sides.

Also according to Felpro, the printed RTV gasket is supposed to face AWAY from the engine block. However if you use sealant I don't think it really matters.

 

[2013GV]

I use hylomar blue on those things, never sets, never leaks and it scrapes off easily if you ever need to get in there again