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FWIW, I tend to just use the Fel-Pro recommended dry installation. So far, I've never had a leak with Fel-pro gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
Here's a repair worth mentioning.

This is the transmission kickdown cable. I've run across a couple of these now that were badly frayed. Replacement is very expensive.

My workaround: I wanted to solder it but the cable wouldn't take solder. So I skinned the insulation off some stranded copper wire and wrapped thin strands around the damaged area many, many times. With a little flux the solder DID suck into that. Then I filed it smooth with a Dremel stone.

It will easily fit in the throttle body pulley. I think it'll work well.

Also a couple of photos showing my current progress.

Wood Finger Thumb Art Nail

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Automotive tire
Car Motor vehicle Hood Vehicle Automotive design
 
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
FWIW, I tend to just use the Fel-Pro recommended dry installation. So far, I've never had a leak with Fel-pro gaskets.
I keep hearing that. I'll have to try it some time.

I also like Indian Head shellac.
 

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Shellac is great if you never want to get it apart, or like spending hours scraping surfaces ces clean.

It does have its uses tho, works well on cork gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
FWIW, I tend to just use the Fel-Pro recommended dry installation. So far, I've never had a leak with Fel-pro gaskets.
I cut a coolant gasket today from 3/64" coolant grade Felpro brand gasket material. For one of the inlet ports the rear of the engine, where the flanges on the "T" of the coolant crossover meet the heads. I had one gasket and nobody had a set in stock locally, so I made a 2nd one.

The original GM seal was stamped metal, no sealant. All aluminum surfaces are flat, clean and shiny.

What's your confidence factor this would hold without sealant, Lou? I'm tempted to try it.
 

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Smear if hylomar blue or plain bearing grease will do if surface is good
 

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As long as both gaskets are the same thickness I'd be very confident. In that application (two connections at either end of a pipe) you need to make sure that you aren't inducing some flex due to one gasket being thinner than the other. If I can recommend, cut another from the same material for the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
This "T" right? ;)

Yes that's the one. The gaskets are at both ends of the T.
Smear if hylomar blue or plain bearing grease will do if surface is good
I'd never heard of this stuff. Would you use it with or without the gasket? (For future reference. I'll probably still use a gasket at this joint.)
If I can recommend, cut another from the same material for the other side.
Yes that occurred to me too. I'll probably do that. I'd prefer no sealant here because it's a bear to reach that spot if I ever needed to clean it off.

Thanks everyone.
 

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Always with a gasket, its not designed to be used metal on metal except on machined things that don't use gaskets, like motor bike rocker covers or crank case halves. If it didn't have a gasket, use it, if it has a gasket, use it.

The other great thing, it doesn't go hard, break off and clog oil passages like rtv does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 · (Edited)
I ended up cutting two gaskets from the blue Felpro coolant grade gasket material. No sealant. We will see.

Edit: next time I'd assemble the crossover on the engine stand. I couldn't get a torque wrench on those rear coolant flange nuts / bolts.

Last evening I installed the intake, plenum, fuel rail, injectors and throttle body. I cleaned and pre-assembled everything several months ago.

Clear sailing ahead, from what I can see. I have all the parts I need to finish up.

Should be ready to turn it over in about a week.
Vehicle Hood Car Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle
 
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How did you entertain the "T" center pipe 'O' ring joint fit-up? :whistle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
How did you entertain the "T" center pipe 'O' ring joint fit-up? :whistle:
I cleaned and painted the pipe and fitted new o rings. Three of them. Two on the center pipe and one on the thermostat housing. All new gaskets. The old ones were ok but I didn't want to do it twice.
 

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W/sealant of some sort? "O" Ring lube or dry fit? :unsure:

I went w/lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
I always use a synthetic grease made for o rings.
 
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
One thing ...

I found in the car's service record that someone may have rammed the catalyst out of the lower cat.

I suppose there's still debris in the muffler. I'll check that.

Otherwise, will this affect how the engine runs?

Since the O2 sensors are all upstream, my understanding is they don't monitor the performance of the lower cat. Right?
Handwriting Font Rectangle Parallel Writing
 

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If there is excessive restriction in the exhaust the engine will have issues expiring.. If the engine cannot breath it will choke..

If you want to know for sure measure the back pressure, anything .>2psi @ 2000rpm should be a concern
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Here's another interchange issue.

The AC mount is different for all 3 of the vehicles I'm working with. I haven't compared the compressors but they're probably all different, too.

My parts car is an 01 Tracker ZR2. The AC bracket uses 2 long studs, one bolt, and two spacers to mount the compressor. (My 01 Tracker LT driver has the same setup.)

The vehicle I'm working on is an 02 ZR2. It uses the same bracket but there are no studs. It uses 3 shorter bolts and there are no spacers.

The XL7 has a completely different bracket which uses 4 long studs and no spacers.

And my son's 00 GV has a different bracket yet, with a swivel bolt at the bottom similar to the alternator bracket. Spacers unknown.

I ended up using the 02 compressor and the 02 bracket (no spacers) on the 2.7 engine. Everything bolts up fine. I hope it's correct for the serpentine belt length.

if anyone wants photos, let me know.

I'll try to summarize all of these issues later.
 
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