Suzuki Forums banner

Samurai Brake Problem

18K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  fordem  
#1 ·
Hi to all my samurai was breaking fine but the master cylinder was leaking and i replaced with a master cylinder but know when i brake the pedal is going completely to the end and the brake is very jumpy if you just hit it very gently it will try to break real hard but the pedal is going to the floor and i bleed real good the lines many times and i change the master cylinder 2 times ,can any have this problem before ,can any tell me if you can bay pas the proportional valve ?
thanks
 
#2 ·
proportioning valve won't let your pedal go to the floor, that's air in the line. Did you bleed the brakes in the correct sequence? Rear right, rear left, front right, front left? When you replace the master cylinder you need to bleed the brakes a lot to get all the air out. On a wheel cylinder or soft line it's not so bad, but on a master cylinder I'll go through a couple cans of brake fluid sometimes just bleeding the lines.
 
#4 ·
hi to all and thanks for the replay and yes it was air on the line ,but the problem is on the proportional valve one of the cylinders on the proportional valve is leaking and apparently the air is coming into the line by the cylinder so i will have to replace this valve and i know that is very expensive or bypass the valve,
any one knows if you bypass this valve it will be a great difference on the brake ?
thanks:)
 
#6 ·
hi to all again ,i bypass the valve until i get another valve but the way i that did it was so simple and come out so good that i want to talk about i wen to home depot pluming department and i get 2 1/8 brass coupling and i put a nut inside the coupling and screw the 2 lines and it work perfect and only cost me like $3.00 and i have picture of all so if any one want more detail email me and i will send you the pictures ,the only difference that i have is that the rear tires get stuck if you break hard but this is great for me because i an using 31 and my samy break like a beast,so i will look for the proportional valve but in the mean time i an happy bypasin the valve for $3.00, :D
 
#11 ·
spongy indicates air still trapped in the system, or wheel cylinders / calipers that may be stuck, correct bleed sequence is key.

try starting a new thread rather than piggy backing on a 10 year old one
 
#14 ·
I have never bled the M/C. If i've fitted a new one I always run fluid thru it before tightening the lines, usually takes about a litre to bleed the system fully. I have always started closest to m/c and finished furthest from it so its pushing the air out as you work down the system.