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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Not quite sure I understand…..the ’immobilizer fault’ was cleared, but the car still won’t start and you are still getting the same codes??
Hey Bex, to clarify, the results of the last scan revealed only 1 fault with the outside air temperature sensor, the scan before had 2 faults which was the immobilizer, that was sorted out and didn’t return on the scanner, and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firing
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Is it possible there could be water damage of a component in the ECU, and still able to transmit signals to the scanner? Something that’s not showing up on the scanner?
 
An ECU can work properly but lose communication with various circuits, due to wiring, grounds, etc. You are advising that your codes 1614 and 1616 are no longer present, so that the ECU is now communicating properly with the transponder/fob, etc., correct?? Of course, there may be other issues that are causing the engine not to start. Just for the heck of it, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake, to see if it will start that way.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
An ECU can work properly but lose communication with various circuits, due to wiring, grounds, etc. You are advising that your codes 1614 and 1616 are no longer present, so that the ECU is now communicating properly with the transponder/fob, etc., correct?? Of course, there may be other issues that are causing the engine not to start. Just for the heck of it, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake, to see if it will start that way.
Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying the both codes are no longer present but I’m still not able to start, also I’ve already tried spraying the intake, but my problem isn’t fuel, its the absence of a spark from the coil pack to the spark plugs, I’m not getting fire
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Can anyone direct me at this point as to what should I do? I would really like to have another opinion, maybe changing the ECU, because I’ve been searching the entire WWW, to find the part number of my existing but everywhere doesn’t seem to have any, part number…..CT 33920-66JJ2 if there’s a replacement I can use can someone send me a link, I really don’t know what else to do.

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Maybe we should start at the beginning? Did this vehicle ever start for you before the transponder codes? Is the vehicle n ew to you? Have you done a compression test on the engine? Noid test on the injectors? There are a few tests that should be done before assuming the issue is the ECU….considering that if it’s not the ECU, and you go to the difficulty and expense of find one, only to find that the engie still won’t start. I would consider the ECU to be the last thing to look at when diagnosing, particularly as it’s throwing codes…????
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Maybe we should start at the beginning? Did this vehicle ever start for you before the transponder codes? Is the vehicle n ew to you? Have you done a compression test on the engine? Noid test on the injectors? There are a few tests that should be done before assuming the issue is the ECU….considering that if it’s not the ECU, and you go to the difficulty and expense of find one, only to find that the engie still won’t start. I would consider the ECU to be the last thing to look at when diagnosing, particularly as it’s throwing codes…????
And I agree with you to have a step by step series of test done as a diagnostic approach, before jumping to conclusions, ok I will search for someone who doesn’t mind making a house call instead of trying to have the vehicle wrecked
 
I think you've said you have fuel but no spark - do you have power to the ignition coils - there are three wires at the coil connectors - ground the meter negative and back probe the connector with the ignition on, what do you get on the three wires?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I think you've said you have fuel but no spark - do you have power to the ignition coils - there are three wires at the coil connectors - ground the meter negative and back probe the connector with the ignition on, what do you get on the three wires?
Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs
And yes it’s spraying fuel
 
Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs
You'll need an oscilloscope to see the spark trigger signal - it's not a constant 5V signal, it's, a logic low (less than a volt), and "pulses" high to fire the plug.

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Trace #4 (the top one) is the coil drive, the line you see going from left to right represents 0 volt, and the "needle" to the right is where it goes high (to 5 volt), and the entire "picture" occurs in 0.10 seconds, without a 'scope there's no way to see it.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Hi guys, haven’t posted inna min, but in my last post I mentioned that I were to take the ECU to a technician who would open the ecu and check the components for visual damage, that was done but I’m still in the same position, car still wouldn’t start.
 
Do you get the same values at the coil/plugs that you do at the ignition coil terminals?
 
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