Hi…I’m the owner of an 08 Grand vitara 2.7L V6 with a damaged ECU and I need advice replacing it…..has anyone have experience replacing your ECU and used one with a different part number that works fine?
Hey Bex, to clarify, the results of the last scan revealed only 1 fault with the outside air temperature sensor, the scan before had 2 faults which was the immobilizer, that was sorted out and didn’t return on the scanner, and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firingNot quite sure I understand…..the ’immobilizer fault’ was cleared, but the car still won’t start and you are still getting the same codes??
Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying the both codes are no longer present but I’m still not able to start, also I’ve already tried spraying the intake, but my problem isn’t fuel, its the absence of a spark from the coil pack to the spark plugs, I’m not getting fireAn ECU can work properly but lose communication with various circuits, due to wiring, grounds, etc. You are advising that your codes 1614 and 1616 are no longer present, so that the ECU is now communicating properly with the transponder/fob, etc., correct?? Of course, there may be other issues that are causing the engine not to start. Just for the heck of it, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake, to see if it will start that way.
And for those of you not familiar with "trini-speak", tumbling is cranking or turning over, so the engine is cranking but not firing.and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firing
And I agree with you to have a step by step series of test done as a diagnostic approach, before jumping to conclusions, ok I will search for someone who doesn’t mind making a house call instead of trying to have the vehicle wreckedMaybe we should start at the beginning? Did this vehicle ever start for you before the transponder codes? Is the vehicle n ew to you? Have you done a compression test on the engine? Noid test on the injectors? There are a few tests that should be done before assuming the issue is the ECU….considering that if it’s not the ECU, and you go to the difficulty and expense of find one, only to find that the engie still won’t start. I would consider the ECU to be the last thing to look at when diagnosing, particularly as it’s throwing codes…????
Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugsI think you've said you have fuel but no spark - do you have power to the ignition coils - there are three wires at the coil connectors - ground the meter negative and back probe the connector with the ignition on, what do you get on the three wires?
And yes it’s spraying fuelHi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs
You'll need an oscilloscope to see the spark trigger signal - it's not a constant 5V signal, it's, a logic low (less than a volt), and "pulses" high to fire the plug.Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs
Ok….good to knowYou'll need an oscilloscope to see the spark trigger signal - it's not a constant 5V signal, it's, a logic low (less than a volt), and "pulses" high to fire the plug.
At least I know it’s an electrical problem going onOk….good to know
Yes sir I did, all newHave you tried replacing the coils/plugs?