Suzuki Forums banner

gauges NOT working... bad ground?

12K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  JonnyK  
#1 · (Edited)
Gauge lights work and dim.
Needle is all the way down
i do have power B+ to the tach

i tested the water temp (YELLOW/WHITE) wire, grounded it out, and nothing on the needle in the on/start position.

It did work before... i unplugged a few things to take the dash out to put in my roll cage and then this happened....
 
#3 ·
did check all the fuses....

i recently did an GM 3 wire alternator swap.... maybe fried something.....
#1 (W) went to W\R
#2 (R) went to Bat (+)
B/W wire is disconnected
W\Y is to the + Pos
Additional wire from + Post to Batt

In the OFF position, the BW (tach) is (NEG) and when switch to the ON position, its (POS). Is that normal??

I tried this:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...rra-samurai-forum/49617-samurai-electrical-fuel-temp-gauges-not.html#post312357

But both Water(Y\W) & Oil sensors(Y\B) have a (NEG) charge without grounding....
 
#4 ·
First - learn to use your meter - in a Samurai, the battery negative is grounded - that is your reference, and there is no circuit that can be negative with respect to ground.

Presumably when you say gauge lights are dim you are referring to the gauge illumination and not warning lights - assuming that the vehicle is not fitted with a dimmer control, this would most likely be a bad ground - so start there.
 
#6 ·
By all means post the pics - someone familiar with them might see something - I've never worked on the Samurai electricals, so I wouldn't be able to tell if anything was out of place.

Go to Ack's FAQ, get yourself a wiring diagram - the Samurai is negative ground, and the majority of circuits used are switched in the supply or positive feed - the exception is the head lights, which have the switch in the ground circuit - but - since you haven't mentioned a headlight issue, I assume we're not troubleshooting that circuit.
 
#10 ·
I installed the OLD alternator, and nothing on the gauges.


NO Charge on the battery either, sits on 12.6. had it tested and the guy at autozone tested it good.

WY going to + post
4 gauge cable from alternator + post to battery
Sensor wire going to BW
L going to WR
***This is the 4 wire

Image
 
#12 ·
It might be an idea to not connect wires to see what happens - sooner or later you're going to end up destroying something.

From memory, the temperature gauge connects between the ignition power feed and the sensor, going to ground via the sensor, if you're getting it to "peg" by connecting what is essentially the ground wire to a +12V source, then the ignition feed is not connected where it should be, and is grounded.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The Ignition Wire.. BW....
When the KEY is in the OFF position, it has a ground.

In the ON position, it has a 12v+




The alternator shouldn't be a problem as it would normally be fed 12v via the same black/white wire that feeds the gauges. With your new alternator this is not needed so I assume you isolated it. If it had earthed and blown the fuse the engine shouldn't run as it also feeds the ignition coil.
I would just start with the basics.
Has the gauge unit 12v positive on the black/white wire with ignition on.
Has both the black wires to the gauges have a good earth.

Yes on the BW wire in the ON position
Yes on the Black wires - Good ground


This ground looks important... anyone know where it goes?
I think it may come from the driver side.....

Image
 
#13 ·
The alternator shouldn't be a problem as it would normally be fed 12v via the same black/white wire that feeds the gauges. With your new alternator this is not needed so I assume you isolated it. If it had earthed and blown the fuse the engine shouldn't run as it also feeds the ignition coil.
I would just start with the basics.
Has the gauge unit 12v positive on the black/white wire with ignition on.
Has both the black wires to the gauges have a good earth.