Ack's FAQ should have what you need as far as Samurai wiring diagrams go, it may have some Tracker stuff as well.

From memory the gauges are supplied with +12V via the ignition fuse and ground through the gauge sender, and so do the idiot lights, so it might be as simple as one "power supply" wire missing, or multiple wires not connected.

 

The FAQ is awesome... I found this;
Ack's FAQ Generic Samurai Vehicle Wiring Diagram

... and am going to trace my grounds and 12v positive to make sure I'm good. The illumination lights in the cluster work, so I know that part of the circuit is good.

 

After going over some of the wiring diagrams, it seems I'm at a loss...

However, I found this... and am looking further for the 7V lead;
Ack's FAQ - Samurai TSB Fuel and Temperature Meter Replacement All Model Years

However, my high-beam indicator isn't working either. But the blinker arrows illuminate... and the cluster illumination comes on, yet the idiot lights aren't when the key is turned on.

 

The problem you're faced with when using that diagram is that it doesn't show which of the instrument cluster wires goes where - let's see what I can come up with.

Find the fuse box on the drawing and look at the 15A fuses - the second one shows a B/Bl (black with blue stripe) wire on the bottom side, and a B/W (black with white stripe) wire on the top - if you follow those wires on the drawing, the B/Bl wire goes to the ignition switch, and the B/W wire goes to the cluster.

Find where the wires go into the cluster and locate the B/W wire and make sure that you have +12V on it when the ignition switch is on - if you don't have the voltage, back track to the fuse panel and then to the ignition switch.

If you lose the +12V on that one wire all of your gauges and idiot lights will quit working.

If you have +12V on the B/W wire find the Y/B (yellow with black stripe) wire coming out of the cluster and short it to the chassis - the oil pressure light should turn on.

Let me know how you progress and we can track the different circuits one at a time.

 

...........
If you lose the +12V on that one wire all of your gauges and idiot lights will quit working.

If you have +12V on the B/W wire find the Y/B (yellow with black stripe) wire coming out of the cluster and short it to the chassis - the oil pressure light should turn on.

Let me know how you progress and we can track the different circuits one at a time.

I've got 12V on the Black/white wire (it's also has a 'red' band), And do the bands have a relation to something? I see some have 1 band, and others 2 or 3 red bands... (confusing)

When I ground the Yellow/Black, with the key "on", nothing changes. No Oil Light, or anything at the cluster.

What I did do... (not sure it helps any), is I supplied 12V to the black/blue (4X4) and my 4x4 light came on.

 

Sounds like you have a problem IN the cluster - or maybe a blown oil pressure lamp bulb.

 

How can I narrow this down further?
(of course, I can pull the bulb and check it... but... BEYOND that...)

My high-beam indicator stopped working
My idiot lights (seat belt, etc) stopped coming on
My fuel and temp gauges don't work

... I'm going to pull the cluster completely out, and check the actual pins/green board on the cluster.

 

Let me add;

The OIL PRESSURE bulb is not blown, but does illuminate with 12V applied to the wire. I checked all the bulbs, by moving them to the 4x4 bulb slot... and illuminating them with 12V, and all are good.

 

I don't have Samurai specific documentation so I have been going between the Samurai diagram on Ack's FAQ and the FSM diagrams for my Suzuki Swift - the diagrams show that both vehicles use the same wire colors as far as the instrument cluster goes - there are differences in the ECU and so on, but the basic circuitry should be similar.

The Swift instrument cluster has that black/white wire feeding several circuits in the cluster - all the warning lights, fuel & temp gauges, the tachometer and seatbelt buzzer - the oil pressure light connects directly between the black/white wire and the yellow/black wire - so if you have a good bulb & +12V on the black/white wire, and the oil light does not turn on when the yellow/black wire is grounded, the problem has to be in the cluster or the connectors.

 

.................. the oil pressure light connects directly between the black/white wire and the yellow/black wire - so if you have a good bulb & +12V on the black/white wire, and the oil light does not turn on when the yellow/black wire is grounded, the problem has to be in the cluster or the connectors.

Interesting you say that... as, I took power from somewhere else... and, added the power to the wiring down stream (near the fuse panel), to get the oil pressure light to come on. You mentioned, to GROUND the wire... well, it didn't do anything, so I ADDED 12V and got it to light.

... what's that mean? I'm backasswards?! I'd think that tells us the connectors are good (as I sent power from afar), and the cluster is good (as it lights the lights). It's got to be something easy, that I'm missing! Like a major ground.

Anymore ideas??

 

What does that mean?

It tells me that the black/white wire either does not have +12V on it, or it is not actually connected to the cluster - you either have a broken wire, a bad connection, or one of the printed circuit traces on the back of the cluster is damaged or missing a screw.

When you put +12V on the yellow/red wire, the current flows backwards through the lamp to ground through the remainder of the circuits that should be powered from the black/white wire.

 

I'm one step closer... yet, with a work-a-round.

I took a 12V keyed to the back of the cluster, via alligator clips. And connected it directly to the small lug near the seat belt buzzer. It's labeled + (or something like that). And I got LIGHTS!! Fuel gauge works, and so does engine temp.

However, my check engine light is now flashing (even if I use the reset switch, it'll stay on... or flash 2 times...pause...2 times...pause), and still my high-beam indicator isn't working. Being the check engine light wasn't on before I started this re-wire... this just tells me I'm missing a 12V that I should already have (somewhere). I checked that the black/white 12V is actually making power on the tracer, so that's not it. I also took a ground, and tied it into the ground lug labeled "E" on the cluster backside, right under the 12V keyed I had just added and made them both semi-permanent.

Same results... still, not 100% as it was before. I'm missing something. :huh:

 

... always eager to hear more ideas.

Maybe, if someone else told me which wires into the cluster, are supposed to have power and which are ground... I'd be better off.

It seems the wiring diagrams I look at aren't exactly the same when it comes to the plugs. I noted each color per a diagram, and it's use (per the diagram) or where it terminated. I then went back to the Sammi and looked at the two large plugs and small plug (seat belt orange wire). The colors weren't all there (I kept scratchin' me head about it). I'll have to check again sometime... as I have given up for the night. Maybe another day when I'm fresh and not seein' double from too much Sammi.

Basically, if someone else took a look... 4 eyes are better then 2 is all I'm sayin'.

 

Two things ...

1 - The fact that you can get the gauges & the idiot lights to work when you hook +12V into the cluster is "proof positive" that the +12V from the black/white wire isn't getting to where it should.

2 - The flashing check engine light indicates that you have a ground where you shouldn't - you're getting a "code 12", which simply means the ECU thinks everything is fine.

On the Tracker there's usually a 4 pin connector under the hood where you can insert a jumper wire and that causes the check engine light to flash - the problem you're faced with is figuring out where that connector ended up on your Samurai.

Unfortunately, since I don't have the diagrams you need, I can't take you any further - you may need diagrams for both the Samurai AND the Tracker - since your wiring will be a mix from the two vehicles - Ack's FAQ may have Tracker diagrams also.

Please don't read this as I'm not willing to work with you - just that I lack the documentation - I'm always willing, so feel free to ask.

 

You've been great help thus far... so thank you for that. Even without proper info, your getting me in the right direction. Gotta' love it!

1- It's amazing, as I checked the 12V on the black/white before the plug, at the plug, and I thought I had pierced onto the tracer (back green tracer wiring) or checked the lug I'm providing 12V, 12V.

Like I said, I was tired ... and often I'd have to check why I wasn't getting 12V at the meter... it'd help to turn on the key, or make sure the meter was on!! Simple mistakes started happening, as I've been looking under that dash for 2-3 days while I get other things buttoned up.

2- Ground where I shouldn't? Hmm... now, that's an even more odd one. You got a code 12, out of my explanation? (EDIT) --> Meaning, it's blinking ... but, with 1 blink pause, 2 blinks, LONG pause.... 1 blink pause, 2 blinks, long pause. I will say that I only added the grounds back to the original spots (wires with spade or loop connectors - to ground screws). Not sure what could be out-a-whack on that one. Unless, the little CB I added is causing this. I used a paired wire that came down by the cig.lighter. One black, one white... as my ground and power. I didn't ground the CB to the body/frame. The stereo IS grounded to the steel tube under the dash, where it had been before.

I really just need a fresh look on this... I also pulled the cluster apart to clean it, and couldn't find the micro screw for the MPH metal cover. I knew it was somewhere... so, when I was ALL DONE buttoning up the dash last night, I walked in to find it on the counter where my wife cleaned the plastic parts. So, I'll be taking it all back apart soon enough.

 

Well well...

Found this thread to confirm the code;
EFI Samurai Error code...help? - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups

Not sure I mentioned this, but I had replaced all the fuses with brand new, and my top left fuse slot was empty when I bought the Sammi. Well, I stuck one in it... never know what your missin! Yet, the above thread told me to remove it (thinking it could be the diagnostic port), and see if my blinky/blinky check engine light went away. SURE ENOUGH!! Start'er up, and it's out. Yet it still illuminates when the key is on. Perfect.

... I'm off to bigger and better things. Today is "Build a Roll Cage Day"!

 

There you go - some vehicles had that "diagnostic fuse" - but not all of them.

 

This tread should be re-written as a sticky...:lol: