Are you looking for one with the three-pin plug or the five-pin?

 

See also, complete re-man distributors for $122 at RockAuto.

 

Bex, it's all good. When a person gets used to a certain type of vehicle, it happens.
Rhinoman, I don't have $500 to drop in this poor thing, especially when I can get the whole distributor for about $205 new (well, re-manned).
I'm going to do a little more research & see what else I can come up with. The guy at the local mitsubishi dealership said that if I could find a good part number, he should be able to cross-reference it & give me more options.

 

Rhinoman, I don't have $500 to drop in this poor thing, especially when I can get the whole distributor for about $205 new (well, re-manned).

The one I linked to (3-pin) is $45.

 

The Suzuki part number for the igniter, whether in the 1995 8v or 16v, within or outside the distributor is 33370-54A50. Again, if you can find an 8v in the junkyard, the igniter is sitting right on the firewall, next to the ignition coil, and easily pulled without having to take the entire distributor.....

 

This gets more confusing the more times I read it .
Would either components take out the fuse in question ??
The ignitor is on the bulkhead. (Well most of them ?)
The pick-up sensor is in the distributor.

The diagram I originally used showed the B/W wire going to the noise suppressor which I assumed fed the ignitor and this diagram does not.
Further investigation in my workshop manuals also do not show the B/W going to the noise suppressor. I have to assume the original diagram is not correct

 

On the 8v at least, the black/white wire feeds the ignition coil, which, in turn feeds the igniter through the brown/white wire (coming out of the ignition coil). The ig-coil fuse covers the ignition coil, so yes, this would all be part of the same circuit.....

 

It seems we're all learning something new in dealing with this. I gave up the search for just the ignitor because I'm running out of time. The poor car's been down since December and I've tinkered with it as time & weather would allow. After spending 6 hours one day last week looking for that little component, I gave up & just bought a new distributor. The mechanic will put it in tomorrow & should be able to pick up my Rudolph (there's a reason for the name, I promise) on Wednesday. I will still post the promised pictures and even an extra one to show you guys who you helped with this struggle.

 

Sorry you were unable to find the igniter on its own. I actually have two of these, and after reading your thread, will make sure that I take good care of my spare. Thank goodness for parts cars - it's like having a Suzuki shop in your garage.....

 

I doubt if the igniter is the problem because it is not directly connected to the 12V supply.

 

Well, the mechanic just called..... That's not the problem either.... Him & I, both, have pulled every component on that circuit & it's still doing it.... I now believe that it's in the wiring even though I haven't found any cracks or breaks any where when I checked.

 

Hate being repetitive/redundant,

Get your mechanic to use a Non Destructive tone generator, connect to system side of F1 fuse, follow the tone , no need to open looms...

Guessing is only costing you $$$ and time...

.... Philip

 

x2,3,4. Frankly, it is the wiring, rather than the sensors themselves, that is much more problematic in these old cars. I wouldn't be really happy with a mechanic that hasn't taken the time to check the wiring with regard to a fuse blow, rather than 'diagnosing' sensors that, frankly, apparently weren't tested. Anyone can advise you to throw parts at the car in the hopes that you land on the right thing. While testing wiring (without a tone generator) may be a bit time consuming, it is really the only way to determine the problem. With a tone generator (and you can get an inexpensive one, as well), this becomes easier and, at least IMHAWO (meaning, in my humble and weird opinion)...fun.

 

Here you go, even us poor pensioners should be able to get this equipment...
Telephone Phone RJ Cable Wire Line Tone Generator Probe Tracer Tracker Tester | eBay

.... Philip

 

This has been discussed before. It is fine for telephone equipment and cabling but care needs to be exercised when using it on a vehicle with electronics plugged in - its more than capable of damaging an ECU.

 

Just to add my 2 cents worth tothe discussion. About 18-20 months ago I kept blowing ign fuses as soon as I turned the key. After checking most of the wiring loom I found a short where the 2 wires going to the alternator ran under the the throttle body. I replaced and rerouted the wires and have not had any trouble since.

 

Just to add my 2 cents worth tothe discussion. About 18-20 months ago I kept blowing ign fuses as soon as I turned the key. After checking most of the wiring loom I found a short where the 2 wires going to the alternator ran under the the throttle body. I replaced and rerouted the wires and have not had any trouble since.

US or Cdn $$, yours could be a windfall.. That is a common area for abrasion..

... Philip