If there's a seal there, I use hylomar on it, and any gasket. If there is no seal or gasket, hylomar
Its one of those things, use it and it won't leak, don't use it and it might. I prefer the added peace of mind factor As I hate fixing stupid leaks that shouldn't be there.

 

If there's a seal there, I use hylomar on it, and any gasket. If there is no seal or gasket, hylomar
Its one of those things, use it and it won't leak, don't use it and it might. I prefer the added peace of mind factor As I hate fixing stupid leaks that shouldn't be there.

Thanks. I found a stamped metal gasket online for only $5. It'll be here tomorrow. I'll see how well that works. I think thats what GM used at the factory. If it's not right I'll just seal it up and move on.

The thermostat housing is very accessible, so whatever happens I can deal with it.

 

Here's a photo of my progress. I'm replacing fuel hoses, and painting little trim pieces.

What's the secret to getting the strut brace to sit down? Six bolts total. I have 2 bolts attached on each side, but I can't get the bolt holes closest to the fender to line up. Maybe it just needs to settle in.

Is it important to torque down the front control arm nuts/bolts with the vehicle's weight on it's wheels? I did not do that, because I couldn't get a torque wrench on them. So I torqued them on jack stands. Could that be preventing the struts from settling down?

 

Yep. You pulled the body out of shape a bit. Loading the front tires should bring things back in to perspective. If not that, back on all fours.

And yeah, I'd additionally locate / torque down any other suspension related components when loaded in normal ride posture.

 

 

I was under the impression that he WAS dangling the suspension. Maybe not!

 

I think a couple things are being conflated here: The strut brace should be installed as shown above. The front control arms (What might also be called a-arms) are not the strut braces, and torqueing them while on jack stands should have no effect on the strut brace.
To answer the original question regarding the third strut brace bolt on each side: I have YET to have one just line up if the vehicle was on jackstands for a while OR was left on it's wheels without the brace. In that situation I just use a small prybar to nudge the strut into alignment with the brace. Get all 6 bolts in but not tight, then torque them all down. The strut will actually move quite easily +/- 1/4" or so.

 

I put the car back on it's wheels yesterday and THEN tried to install the strut brace. No go. When I tried jacking it up again, to align the bolt holes, it got even worse. So I let it back down and washed it, just to make myself feel better.

I'll get it.

Re the lower control arm (called the "front control arm" in the manual) -- I torqued it with weight off the wheels. Maybe I'll drive up onto ramps and redo them... Anyway I was just wondering whether that premature tightening might be keeping the struts from lining up with the brace.

Then I thought, how can that be? The LCA bounces up and down a hundred times a minute.

So no, pre-torquing the LCA can't be a huge issue. So I figure it must need to settle in. I'll raise it back up and try again per the instructions above, thanks guys.

 

The control arm pivot bolts (in fact any suspension pivot bolt) should be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension - it reduces the likelihood or bush failure.

The pivot bushes will typically be made of rubber bonded to an inner and outer sleeve, the outer sleeve is (in this case) pressed into the control arm, and the inner sleeve clamped at the two ends - if tightened with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels the rubber is not under tension, and the up/down movement of the suspension twists both ways from the rest position - if tightened at full droop, when the vehicle is lowered onto it's wheels the rubber is twisted and as the suspension is compressed it is twisted even further.

 

You're absolutely right and I knew better. I'll retorque them on ramps.

 

Don't forget to loosen them right off before you retorque so they settle in the correct position

 

Don't forget to loosen them right off before you retorque so they settle in the correct position

I put the car back up on jack stands and loosened both bolts. What is to loosen them "right off"??

In that situation I just use a small prybar to nudge the strut into alignment with the brace. Get all 6 bolts in but not tight, then torque them all down. The strut will actually move quite easily +/- 1/4" or so.

That's been my experience too. But take a look.

Vehicle is on jack stands, w/ wheels off. One side of the brace has all 3 bolts in, loosely. This is what I'm looking at:

That's not gonna nudge over.

I also found this:

I can't get a good photo back there, but it says:

2.5 LONG R
41069-67D10 011109

I'm finding nothing on that part number. Could this be some sort of suspension lift?

The GM manual is not helpful. Says to partially lift the vehicle and install the 3 bolts on each side. :/

Am I safe to run without the brace for a while? I'd prefer not taking the whole suspension apart again right now if I don't have to.

 

DO NOT run with the brace removed, its intention is to stabilize the shock towers and in doing so hold the front suspension in place...

If it does not line up with the wheel of the ground gently lower the vehicle until the brace fits the fasteners,,
The jack should be centered on the front cross member..

 

The car is back down on all four wheels with brace removed. All suspension components finger tight for now.

So it's ok to use a floor jack on that transmission cross member? The GM service manual says not to do that.

Yes I imagine that would make a difference.
Lifting from the center.

Any thoughts on that "long" strut? Do they all say that??

 

To loosen right off means exactly that, about finger tight.

 

Yowza, that's a fair bit off kilter there! Is it possible that brace got manhandled while off? How long was the vehicle left on the ground and no strut brace? IIRC, the Bazuki was pretty far off kilter also, and it took some persuasion. It was left with the wheels on the ground/no brace for at LEAST a couple 3 years though.

 

How long was the vehicle left on the ground and no strut brace?

About fourteen months. It has pretty tall tires too.

I'm perplexed by that "long" strut.

The brace itself came off my 01 ZR2 parts car, because it was in better shape as between the two of them.

 

I think that any transmission crossmember in this scenario resides mid-frame.

 

This must be the transmission crossmember. It looks removeable.

 

Suzuki calls that the rear engine mount - most people consider it the transfer case mount/crossmember.

 

I gave it a little nudge and it slipped right in.

 

Good job, has always worked for me.. Torque those nuts properly

 

I pulled that brace open a good half inch. Even then I had to muscle it in place.

Lifting on that cross member didn't help a whole lot, by the way.

 

I pulled that brace open a good half inch. Even then I had to muscle it in place.

Lifting on that cross member didn't help a whole lot, by the way.

It might be an idea to have the front end alignment checked - if that brace is or was bent, it may impact the camber.

 

When I got the car, this hood insulation was installed upside down.

I couldn't believe it. All torn up etc.

I repaired it with spray adhesive, fiberglass, lawn fabric and black paint.

 

Today my son and I finally installed the radiator and hoses, the trans cooler lines and the remaining hoses, reservoirs and connectors etc. All fasteners are torqued down. We started this job almost exactly one month ago, and it is finished.

We then filled it with water and decided to go for a little cruise.

At first in traffic it was ho-hum, nothing to see here. Temps normal. NO CODES. Then I got an open stretch of road and I kicked it down.

Whoa. Head snapping acceleration (and shifting) at mid to high range.

Very impressed with the results.

I did notice some weirdness in the road feel fordem, so I'll get it aligned ASAP. Certainly nothing extraordinary. We drove maybe two miles. Otherwise the steering and suspension are as normal, very tight, and quiet.

In terms of total effort, this job was no more difficult than a straight 2.5L swap. The devil is in the details on the interchange issues, which are relatively few.

I'll post some photos and maybe a video. I'll also try to summarize the interchange issues and my workarounds.

Thanks again all.

 

Here are my thoughts on the Suzuki 2.5L to 2.7L swap, more or less in the order of assembly:

1. Select the engine.
Mine is a 2004 Suzuki XL-7 engine, I can confirm it works well. Earlier years H27a should swap over but I wouldn't use the later years' engines before doing the research. I can't confirm compatibility of any other years.

2. Get a factory service manual.
The Suzuki service manual on this forum is a great resource. I have my own GM factory manual. I've used both. Either one is suitable, and they are invaluable for torque specs and etc.

3. The Approach.
Generally you will be using the 2.7L short block and attaching all of the peripherals from the 2.5L, except as explained below. (I'll skip the details of your typical engine installation.)

4. Engine prep.
Strip the alternator and bracket, PS pump and bracket, fuel rails, injectors and harness, AC compressor and bracket, plenum, intake, throttle body, front coolant pipes and all connectors from both engines. The first obvious difference you'll see is that the 2.7L engine has a butterfly valve located on the front crossover air chamber. This affects the position of one of the flanges on the front crossover chamber which is therefore NOT interchangeable with the 2.5L intake. The 2.5L engine has no butterfly valve at all. I considered trying to use this valve for performance reasons but did not, for reasons explained in another post on this forum.

IF YOUR VEHICLE DOESN'T HAVE A KNOCK SENSOR, strip the knock sensor from the 2.7L engine and replace it with a short 14mm bolt (use teflon tape). My 2002 Chevy Tracker's wiring harness does not have a connector for the knock sensor. (If your original 2.5L Tracker or GV engine had a knock sensor, you may need to rethink this. )

Pull the timing cover and do a complete service as you would for any engine swap, with new gaskets, o rings, sensors, etc. The parts stores list separate intake gasket kits for the 2.5L v. the 2.7L, probably due to the butterfly valve. I used the 2.5L kit and had no issues. The water pump, o rings, gaskets, timing tensioners and guides were all interchangeable (however I didn't do a complete timing service - just the service recommended in the Suzuki TSB on this subject).

The camshaft position sensors (CPS) on both engines are located on the top rear of the L head (bank 1). After CAREFULLY marking the location of the original 2.7L sensor with a grease pencil or marker, remove both sensors but leave the bracket. The earlier model (USA) CPS will have a black cover. The updated CPS will have a bronze colored cover. Use the black one! The 2.5L computer will not comm with the 2.7L CPS.

Reinstall the 2.5L sensor on the 2.7L head while the engine is still on the stand, using the reference marks previously mentioned. I wasn't careful here and had to use the grease marks from the torx screw on the original 2.7L CPS to line up the replacement.

The thermostat housing itself appears to be interchangeable but one or more of the coolant necks is not. Use all cooling components from the 2.5L engine.

For AT vehicles, the flex plate is interchangeable. Here I also replaced my rear main seal which is also interchangeable. I don't have any additional info on the interchange as between manual transmission vehicles, but I'm guessing it is the same.

The timing cover, seal and CMP sensor are all interchangeable.

5. Installation.
On removal I pulled the left CV axle, exhaust manifolds and front differential, for ease of access. Re-installation is typical. Note the XL-7 wiring harness has a knock sensor wire / connector, located with the group of O2 sensor connectors at the center rear of the engine. Five connectors total in this 2.7L group. You probably won't find this knock sensor connector on your (USA) 2.5L wiring harness. There are only four O2 sensor connectors at this location, on a 02 Tracker ZR2 anyway.

Use the PCM (ECU) from the 2.5L. Except as mentioned, all connectors are compatible.

The XL-7 was fitted with a larger alternator than the Tracker / GV. I believe the 2.7L alternator is rated at about 90A, while the 2.5L alternator is about 60A. The larger 2.7L alternator will bolt right up, and all three connectors are interchangeable. The upper and lower alternator brackets on the 2.7L do have minor differences from the 2.5L brackets, but they are interchangeable. I used the larger alternator of course.

Use the injectors, injector harness and fuel rail from the 2.5L engine. Clean and pre-assemble your intake manifold. The 2.7L injectors are white, and the 2.5L injectors are green. I didn't attempt to use the white 2.7L injectors because it appeared the pintle diameter was different and therefore might not fit the 2.5L intake manifold. Use the green ones in your preassembly.

Use the engine mount brackets from the 2.5L engine. Apparently the 2.7L engine mounts are not interchangeable onto the 2.5L body. I didn't ask questions here, so I don't know for sure. I used the original brackets from the Tracker and everything bolted up fine.

Pay close attention to the AC compressor bracket setup. As I explained in an earlier post, the 2.7L AC bracket has four long studs to affix the compressor, while the 2.5L bracket uses two studs and a bolt (or three bolts in my case - it changes in later model years). There are also some small spacers in some of the 2.5L AC brackets, which will affect belt length if you mix up your 2.7L v early 2.5L v late 2.5L AC bracket parts. Just use the original equipment from the 2.5L air conditioning setup. All of it.

The PS pump, reservoir and brackets are all interchangeable.

I used the serpentine belt and alternator belt spec'd for the 2.5L engine. The 2.7L belts are probably interchangeable, but I wasn't sure, given the incompatibility of some AC components. My 2.5L serpentine belt is tight but seems to fit just fine.

Exhaust reassembly is typical. I used a combination of 2.5L and 2.7L manifolds which were interchangeable. They bolt right up to the exhaust ports and the gaskets are identical. There is some suggestion the 2.5L exhaust is too restrictive for the 2.7L. I will probably replace the muffler with a less restrictive resonator when I get a chance.

You should probably check the engine timing adjustment section of your service manual, tho I haven't done that, and I'm not sure I'll need to. The CPS sensor can only be installed one way into the receiver. In other words, you can't install it upside down, or 180 degrees off. However you'll need to rotate it EXACTLY to the position it was in when removed from its bracket, using your reference marks. Your timing should be pretty close to what it was when you last started your engine. However, follow the instructions in the manual for timing adjustment to be sure.

The 2.7L engine height seems to be identical. Use the original 2.5L throttle and TV cables and brackets.

The coolant inlet pipe on the 2.7L is NOT interchangeable. This means the coolant inlet hose is also not interchangeable. Use the entire 2.5L cooling system setup. The coolant pipe o rings are all interchangeable, as are the radiator and all other fittings.

That's pretty much it. I'll add photos later and edit this post if I think of any more details.

 

I'm still having to add a few ounces of coolant every couple of days.

Not sure if I have a leak or if the system is still burping air. There are no drips and there's no coolant smell anywhere. No smell in the exhaust, or under the hood, anywhere. Curious. I'm just going to let it ride for a few days and see if it works itself out.

Meanwhile, I had to add some bling.

Edit: sorry for the terrible photos. The lettering looks crooked, but it's just the sunlight. They're straight.

 

Here's the finished product. It was a mess. Now you can eat off it, inside and out.

The inside was coated with dust and dirt and probable cig smoke. Now its all cleaned and painted and smells like ammonia cleaner.

2002 Chevy Tracker ZR2, with a 2.7L engine from a 2004 Suzuki XL7; carpets, rear seat, plastic trim and various engine parts from a 2001 Tracker ZR2; floor mats from a late model Chevy Impala; and twin GM horns from a full size Oldsmobile. Otherwise, pretty much stock, including the radio! Plus I added a hand-stitched leather steering wheel wrap.

It has about 230k miles on it, and I also just learned it will need front wheel bearings in the next year or so. Which is fine, I will tackle that after a short break. (I also need to flush the brakes and straighten some exterior trim etc, so it's ALMOST finished.)

My coolant loss has stopped but I'm tracking a minor oil leak coming from somewhere under the right exhaust manifold. The PCM
hasn't thrown any codes. Kinda has me stumped.

It's a 20 footer. The paint on the body and wheels is scuffed up. Still, I'm very happy with it. It's straight, there's no rust, it stops hard, the steering is tight, and it runs like a top.

Now comes the hard part. I promised the missus I would sell one. I don't like selling my cars...

 

Here's the finished product. It was a mess. Now you can eat off it, inside and out.

Kudos to you for sticking with it - I sent a buddy of mine a link to this thread, because he's been considering a similar swap, he's still looking for a good low mileage 2.7

My coolant loss has stopped but I'm tracking a minor oil leak coming from somewhere under the right exhaust manifold. The PCM
hasn't thrown any codes. Kinda has me stumped.

Why would you be stumped? The PCM can't tell you that there's a leak much less where it is.

 

Sorry, I wasn't clear. It's not throwing codes which is good, but I'm SEPARATELY stumped about the oil leak. More of a seep.

 

If I recall correctly, there are a couple of O-rings between the upper & lower blocks on those H series engines that can be problematic, I don't recall which side of the engine they are on.

 

Another oil leak drivers side block (joint) mating surface

I have an oil leak on the drivers side block (joint) mating surface just below the oil pressure sending unit. As mentioned in another post it is the main oil gallery discharge path from the oil pump. I know there is an oval oring in the discharge path between the upper oil pan and the block...

www.suzuki-forums.com

The thread above discusses the O-ring I'm referring to, seems to be on the opposite side to your leak though.

 

Yes my leak is on the other side.

I think the upper and lower blocks are held together with sealant which does pooch out sometimes, too. But my seep is higher up on the block than that.

Post #7 in this thread is what I was thinking.

Another oil leak drivers side block (joint) mating surface

I have an oil leak on the drivers side block (joint) mating surface just below the oil pressure sending unit. As mentioned in another post it is the main oil gallery discharge path from the oil pump. I know there is an oval oring in the discharge path between the upper oil pan and the block...

www.suzuki-forums.com

I ran my finger along the bottom edge of the manifold flange, behind the heat shield, and found oil. This is higher up on the engine than the o rings between the block halves. There are no sensors on this side. Do you think this indicates a seep from the head gasket?

Hopefully there's no issue with oil pressure. I see no other signs of a head gasket leak but I'll investigate further with my bluetooth scanner. (Can I get real time oil pressure readings from the PCM??)

 

Here's where I found the oil.

It's running down the right engine mount bracket from somewhere.

I'm not going to worry about it right now. As leaks go, it's pretty minor.