I can confirm that on my XL7 the oil pan does not have the rubber plug. My guess is someone wanted to look inside without pulling the pan, so they drilled out an inspection port and plugged it afterwards.

 

Ok I had it backwards, the factory used sealant and no gasket. My 01 Chevy service manual at vol. 2 p. 6-571 says the same thing.

However when I contacted Felpro, they recommended no sealant with this particular gasket. So that's what I did.

On the order of assembly, you tell me. Here's a snapshot of the Chevy manual. From what I can tell, it's organized by first the sequence of disassembly, followed by the sequence of assembly. They have you do the pans first.

I studied it. It'll work either way. I'll do the valve covers last.

 

When I replaced my water pump I removed the front cover but did not remove the oil pans. I was able to get it back together without leaking so you are correct that the front cover can be put on after the oil pans but here's the rub. The front cover has two alignment pins so you can't rest the front cover on the lip of the oil pan and tilt it into place. It has to slide straight in. And that sliding motion creates a wiping action that scrapes off the sealant. I don't know if the table of contents is a reliable guide for the order of disassembly. Here is an abbreviated list of the steps to remove the front cover from the Tracker factory service manual.

Installation is the list in reverse order.

 

I don't know if the table of contents is a reliable guide for the order of disassembly.

You're probably right. I know the sliding action you're referring to. I wasn't ready for the cover. Maybe I jumped the gun.

But there's one thing I know for sure. That I'm not taking that pan off to redo it.

 

Ok quick update on this project and a question for you XL7 experts.

I spent the last couple days on the final touches to the 2.7 and getting the Tracker ready. I also reread this entire post, to make sure I've covered all issues.

Appears I may not have.

When I reread the auszookers post, I noticed for the first time that "oldschool" says the input shaft from the Tracker's auto trans won't fit the 2.7 crankshaft. Or torque converter, I'm not sure which.

auszookers.com • View topic - 2001 Grand Vitara H27A conversion and many other questions..

Does anyone who has done this swap into a vehicle with auto trans know for sure?

 

Maybe I'm missing something but isn't this as simple as pull the torque converter out of the transmission and place it against the flexplate and see if the bolt holes line up?

If it helps any, the torque converter for a 2.7 XL-7 (01~03) is 22700-67D30 and the 2.5 GV (01~03) uses the same part number.

If the post below is what you're referring to ...

If its auto then they are 99% the same, the bloody out put shaft is larger on the XL7. (and also the TC input to match)

I put a GV auto into an 02 XL7 and had to swap the OP shafts over.

He appears to be referring to a transmission swap, not an engine swap, and it's the transmission output shaft that is larger and the TC input will be the transfer case input shaft.

 

Maybe I'm missing something but isn't this as simple as pull the torque converter out of the transmission and place it against the flexplate and see if the bolt holes line up?

If it helps any, the torque converter for a 2.7 XL-7 (01~03) is 22700-67D30 and the 2.5 GV (01~03) uses the same part number.

My donor 2.7 is a 2004 but thanks for the tip and I might try doing that. Didn't know you can pull out a torque converter.

I'm not very familiar with the workings of transmissions I'm afraid. You're right about his post and input v output shaft. But I wasn't sure if by "TC" he meant transfer case or torque converter. So I wanted to nail that whole thing down.

I hope you're right and it is that simple. We'll know for sure in a couple of hours

Thanks again for your help.

 

Here's the 2.7 engine, ready to go.

I used the Tracker engine-to-body mount brackets because apparently that's important.

I also decided to go with the XL7 valve covers with the screw type PCV valve. Because someone said I should match the PCV valve with the engine it was designed for. Otherwise the covers are identical.

I'll summarize all these interchange issues later.

My GM service manual for the 01 Tracker H25a specifies a specific GM "sealant" for the torque converter bolts. I triple checked, and the equivalent product is, if you can believe it, red loctite. Despite my concerns, I went with it.

I also used the black Permatex ultra black on specific corners of the timing cover and valve covers. The GM manual didn't call for it, but the more recent Suzuki TSB does. So I went with that.

 

When I installed my rear main seal, the face of my new seal ended up being about 2-3mm deeper than flush. I couldn't pull it back out without damaging it. It seemed like there was still plenty of mating surface.

Anybody familiar with this seal and how it's supposed to go in? My manual just says "use the install tool" which sets the right depth.

 

Here is a comparison pic of my factory installed rear main, if that helps.

 

Mines just a hair deeper, I think it'll be ok.

Thanks for that.

 

As long as there's no oil gallery it can obstruct that supplies, or drains the rear bearing.

 

My seal is maybe 1mm deeper. I studied the situation on the install. I don't think it's blocking anything, thanks.

HOWEVER. The 2.7 engine did NOT go in, after two attempts. We got it on the studs but it reached refusal about 3/4" shy of seating all the way in.

I'm not concerned yet. The torque converter pulled forward on removal of the 2.5. I believe it's just not seated correctly. We have a rain delay. I'll try again when the weather clears.

 

See these two threads. The engine is a different Zuk engine but the oil seal tools and technique appear similar to the V-6.

Rear Main Oil Seal tool???

Hello to all. New to this site. I have a couple of questions about replacement of the rear main oil seal on my 1998 Suzuki Sidekick JLX 4X4 with automatic transmission. After doing a bit of online research I found that it has been recommended that a Oil Seal Installer #09911-97811 and Oil...

www.suzuki-forums.com

Sidekick Sport J18 engine install

I noticed I didn't say anything about my Sidekick Sport after buying it. I had it on the road after changing the front tie rods and rims. ...

m000035.blogspot.com

 

HA that's amazing, I used a section of PVC pipe too!

That layered PVC tool is the way to go. I may have to give that a try next time.

 

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated on the pump drive tags in the transmission, measure from bell housing on engine to flexi plate mounting face, torque converter mounting points should be in the transmission by about 10 mm more than that measurement ( measure from transmission bell housing face to torque converter) that gives required clearance for installation, once bell housing faces meet, you then slide converter forward to meet flexi plate

To get it to seat, me being a right handed person, I do it this way....

Support converter by snout with left hand, and use left hand yo apply slight rearwards pressure into the transmission. Gently jiggle the converter with left hand, rotate with right hand to get drive dogs to line up, and splines if they have also become dislodged. 2 tags, 180 depress apart so you may need to rotate either way up to 1/2 a turn will suddenly go in about 10 to 20 mm when they engage

 

And further rotate the torque convertor while advancing it in, for the oil pump drive tangs to engage / seat. Two stops on the way in other words.

 

3 in total if converter has been out, input shaft splines, stator splines and oil pump drive dogs.

Guaranteed to cause frustration for a first timer.

 

Success! Thanks guys, couldn't have done it without you.

I pulled off the TC from underneath so I could understand what I was up against. I could then see this trans input shaft with three steps, the inner two of which were splined.

So I wiped the surfaces, applied a thin coat of multifunction grease and wiggled and leveled it over and over with slight rearward pressure. Finally it just popped in. It was obvious when it happened.

I'll torque everything down and install the TC bolts tomorrow. Thanks again folks.

 

Don't use any form of grease on the torque converter splines...ever....they are bathed in trans fluid when the car starts.

If you need to, plain atf, or very rarely some vaseline on the snout to ease it into the seal.

Take it off and clean as much grease off as you can, it will gel and block the oil passages in the pump, I have seen it destroy the sealing O rings on the pump stator which contro,s the main pressure supply line and torque converter supply and torque converter clutch application supply.

Screwdriver and rag to get as much off in the converter itself. Depending on how much you used. A bit the size if a pea will cause no end of transmission issues, especially if its a molybdenum disulphide based grease.

 

Thanks, good info.

You can imagine I'm not super excited to hear this.

I looked at the GM manual. No discussion.

I need to sleep on this one.

And thankfully no I didn't use that type of grease.

 

The other thing the grease can do is mix with the trans fluid and coat the clutches leading to slipping. Doesn't need much.

Vaseline dissolves in trans fluid and is safe to use.

 

I don't think that I'd panic if a tiny amount of grease.

 

You mean, THAT grease?

Since I'm looking at it, what else should I do?

How important / difficult is it to replace the TC seal? So far I haven't found any local in stock.

 

I thought the seal was inside the torque converter!!

The seal were talking about - it's inside the bell housing?? This one's dry. I can coat it with ATF?

I turned the TC upside down and it's slowly draining old crappy smelling ATF. I rotate it every few minutes. I assume then I should refill it with a similar amount of ATF?

Anything else?

 

When installed and the transmission is filled, the pump will fill the TC. No need to prefill

 

Atf on the seal, its a pain to try and replace yourself as alignment is critical. Remember to check and top up trans before driving it tho, as Philip says, it will re fill
Plain white vaseline on the converter snout tube is probably the best, just a light smear us all you need as that will help the converter slide into the seal

And yes, that grease, bit too much, you don't actually need any.

Do not, under any circumstances unto those bolts on that front plate that holds the seal. That holds the transmission together and you're in for major work if you do. I have unfortunately seen people undo them thinking its a plate that holds the seal. It's not, its the whole pump and stator assembly, behind that is the first set of clutch drums and the band.

 

From the Zuk Tranny Service Manual...

Note distance measurements and grease references:

Transmission and axle manual

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And I would certainly pre-fill the torque converter to improve fill time and lessen the chance of running the pump dry.

 

Pump should already be primed as it was running. Pump is driven from converter, input shaft wont start to to rotate until Converter has oil in it. Simpler to add about 3/4 of what was drained to the trans before start then check level later. Pre filling Converter makes them even heavier and its so easy to slosh oil everywhere when installing it.

Its no different to filling a new oil filter after an oil change via the engine oil pump.

in this case, It will fill the Converter in a few seconds