One of the wheel sensors is giving a signal that does not correspond with the others, Use a live data scanner and monitor all wheel speeds (graph mode). This will direct you to the correct corner.. From there you shall have to diagnose.

It could be the air gap, bad tone ring, wiring...

Q!, what possessed you to replace all 4 speed sensors and hubs?

 

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Q!, what possessed you to replace all 4 speed sensors and hubs?

Ahh, that boom I heard was the parts cannon going off, it scared the dogs.

 

Stil lCode C1033
On the scan tool, the back wheels are both 37MPH and the front wheels are both 43MPH
I tied both Beck-Arnley and Timken rear hubs.
Is it the abs pump/control unit ?
Any SX4 mechanics out here?

 

nope, you have something funny going on, either the wrong tone wheels or the wrong sensors. All wheels must match speeds.

do all the tone wheels have the same number of notches?

 

What tires are you running, front/back

 

I have a matched set of 4 tires - I did not have this problem until I changed the 4 hubs.

 

therein lies the issue, I bet you have different teeth count on the hubs between front and rear.

First question I should have asked, is yours AWD or FWD as there is a difference in hub and bearings and probably speed sensor teeth numbers


from my documents, the timken part number for the AWD is HA590331 and they come with the sensors and cables.

 

The rear hubs (Timkin) are a sealed unit - I can not count the notches.

 

Yes, I ordered the correct 4 hubs and 4 speed sensors for AWD.
(Assuming they sent me the correct ones inn the box)

The frront hubs and cables are the same for both FWD and AWD.

The back hubs and cables were different part numbers for AWD
The back hubs are a sealed unit - so I can't really count teeth.

When I drive 43 MPH, the fronts both show 43 MPH and the back boh show 37 MPH.
I sure wish I had done 1 hub at a time!

I did try a different/second brand (Timkin) of hubs on the back with same results.
The fronts are harder to swap as you need to press the bearing on
but I may need to try a different set of front bearings
(maybe Timkin to match the back hubs?)

The Suzuki manujal says to check :
tire size
sensor
hub
pump/control unit

I did find a low mileage pump/control unit on ebay for $80
they list for $1300 new at the dealer.
I may try that this weekend,

Scott

 

If you are getting a disparity on wheel speed (input data) with scanner, changing the pump unit will not fix the issue..

 

PUMP? ahh..the ABS "pump"...
Not a culprit here inded?...

 

The SX4 ABS pump has 2 logic control boards - one for the back wheels and one for the front wheels.

The Suzuki repair manual says for a code P1033, to replace any bad sensors, then the hubs, and then finally replace the pump/control unit. This code does not say which wheel speed is bad - just that 2 or more do not agree.

I may try replacing one front bearing (the knuckle is a pain) and see if the speed agrees with the 2 back wheels.

I had purchased from Roc-Auto "Durango" hub/bearing kits for the front and first Beck-Arnley then Timkin hubs on the rear (bearings are built in). Both sets of back hubs showed 10% less speed than the fronts.

Scott

 

Since this issue only started after you replaced the hubs, can you guess where the issue lies? I doubt its the ABS unit

 

I had 3 codes - 2 codes said Rear left issues.
After changing 4 hubs and 4 sensors - I am left with the one code P1033.

Yes, I know I wish I had changed ONE thing at a time'but the car was on the lift and all 4 hubs were shot and the cables were rusted on the hubs.

I guess am going to try the ABS pump/control unit and see what happens ?????

 

don't forget the scan tool to bleed the unit properly too, needs to be one that has the "self bleed" function to activate the pump and all solenoids as required. You may also need to have it coded to the rest of the ECU's depending on what you replace.

 

This may be a stupid idea but is it possible to count the fluctuations per revolution to make sure the sensors match ?

 

thE "funny" thing with the above test is that do not suggest or state to count the number of pulses in one rotation of the wheel...which would be a valid information in this case. ANd by the way, 115 ohms is something you can only adjust with a pot....and the exact value is not that important, anything close to that is OK; fixed resistance values in that range are 100 and 120 ohms +/- 10%...and notice the voltage reference values they provide are +/- 20% (high: 1645 +/- 20%, low 820 +/- 20% )

 

LMP, I agree, but the overall purpose of that test is to determine that the pulse train is consistent for a revolution, and the sensor is seeing the teeth moving past the face. As the 4 corners are "supposed" to be the same number of teeth, the pulse count would be expected to be the same.

I'd be using 120 ohms, its there as a current limiter / volt drop to the sensor.

At least with a scope or a multimeter you can indeed count the pulses per revolution. Drop outs or "long" pulses are what this test is looking for which usually indicates a faulty sensor or tone wheel. Amazing how many I have had come thru the shop with a bit of crud in a tooth gap and the sensor intermittently gets a double pulse.

Pulse counting is what the diagnosticians do, they start looking at correlations between wheels in real time. 4 Channel scope would help here, would be nice to look and see whats going on between each wheel relative to the others.

I am very suspicious about the fact that this problem has appeared after changing hubs. I know there was a sensor code beforehand and its always possible one of the input boards has an issue, but on both sides at the same time? one corner yeah, I can accept that, but not both co incidentally at the same time. Having one sensor show an out of range speed is common, both wheels at one end tho? The fact the scanners showing speeds says to me that the control boards are ok.

You can manually count the teeth, take the sensor out and look down the hole, mark one tooth, then count as you rotate the wheel.

 

ABS pump did not help code C1033

Originally - The back left sensor was rusted off and throwing 2 original codes.
I decided to change all 4 hubs and cables while I was "at it"
BAD MOVE - Should have done one at a time !

I did try 2 sets of back hubs - currently have TIMKENs.


2 local well-known local shops said to replace the ABS control/pump ($500 quote)
This is what the Suzuki manual said to do as well if new hubs did not help.

I found a used ABS pump ($50, 49K miles, no codes) on e-bay and replaced it & cleared all codes.
Did not require the ABS computer to open the pump & bleed the lines but a LOT of air.

Still same issue, code C1033.
Front wheels still read the same + slower than back wheels.

I guess I try replacing the 2 front bearings next?
Maybe one at a time to see what happens ?
These were DURAGO hub kits ($60 for the hubs and bearing) from Roc City Auto
Maybe I should order TIMKENs front bearing to match the back ones?
There is a HUGE difference in price. Timken bearing are $70 each
It's a pain - you have to press the bearings onto the knuckles.

PS: I used "Hochstein" front wheel speed senors - $40 each
If needed, I may try Intermodial (standard) sensors (like the back) - they are $100+ each
I wonder why the huge price difference in wheel sensor cables ($30-$200) ?

Scott

 

front abs wheel speed sensors ?

I could count the front hubs but I can not access the back hubs - they are a sealed unit.

 

I could count the front hubs but I can not access the back hubs - they are a sealed unit.

Yes, you can, remove the sensor and look down the hole in the hub the sensor fits in.

This is why you fit OEM sensors and hubs, You either have a hub with different numbers of teeth, or sensors that aren't counting all the teeth.

I'm leaning towards teeth count as its a "front vs rear" issue rather than one corner reading funny.

The 2 well known shops I took it to said it was the pump.


I found a used ABS pump ($50, 49K miles, no codes) on e-bay and replaced it & cleared all codes.
Did not require the ABS computer to open the pump & bleed the lines but a LOT of air.

Still same issue, code C1033.
Front wheels still read the same + slower than back wheels.

guess what, its not the pump.

I bet theres still air in the pump, you can't bleed it properly without running the pump motor and opening the solenoids in the correct order to drive out the air.

 

I do not have a volt meter (or skills) to check the hubs

The 2 well known shops I took it to said it was the pump.

 

Personally, I would connect the scope to the input (all 4) and record raw data, as opposed to processed data (scanner..)

That would take the guess work out of the equation.

 

It was bad front DURAGO hubs. I replaced with TIMKEN and problems solved.

 

10/4/2019 SOLVED !!!!!!
RECAP : I had replaced the 2 front bearings (DURANGO) and 2 back bearings (BECK ARNLEY) at same time (stupid thing to do I guess)
ABS code C1033 - front/back speed were 10% different
I replaced 2 backs with TIMNKEN - same issue
I replaced all 4 speed sensors with INTERMODIAL ("standard") - same issue
I replaced the ABS pump/control unit (per Suzuki manual) - same issue
I replaced the front bearing with TIMKEN brand (to match the back) and TA DA

My ABS light is off and the AWD light doesn't flash now
I have a new drive shaft as well (U JOINTS were bad) - I AM READY FOR WINTER !!

 

Glad its finally resolved, proves guess work is not economical

 

NOTE :I did use a scope and the measured - the fronts and backs read the same. It was not until the car reached 40MPH that the front speed was off 10%. A person on amazon commented that they had the same issue with these @DURAGO bearings.

 

That is indicative of an air gap issue, did you use a scope (back probe at wheel) or scanner (via OBDII port)?

 

We used a snap-on abs scanner to show the wheel speeds were different at 40MPH
the code was C1033.
The SX4 manual says could be hubs, speed sensors, or the ABS pump (we tried all 3)

hooking a meter to the ABS cable and spinning the wheels slowly 360 degrees they all had the same number of "spikes".

This guy on amazon had the same problem with these DURAGO bearings
DuraGo 29596108 Wheel Hub Kit

https://www.amazon.com/DuraGo-29596108-Wheel-Hub-Front/dp/B01M0AO9VZ#customerReviews

The new front TIMKEN bearings fixed the issue on the spot.
(Backs are TIMKEN)

I've learned to do ONE wheel at a time from now on and to not mix brands.