[dennho]

I did this last year... IT WAS A MAJOR BITCH TO DO!!!

ALSO, I ran into different bolt sizes with the intake butterfly valve assembly. Check my thread here, I got no answers, but my XL-7 has been running better ever since I cleaned out my EGR valve with a KNIFE!

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-200...om/1g-2001-2006-xl-7/123242-intake-throttle-body-bolts-why-they.html#post748178

jstyles, you are absolutely correct. It will take a long time. You do have to disconnect some fuel lines. I recall one near the fuel pressure regulator. Putting it back together was a bigger pain than taking it apart.

I had a laptop in the garage and put this video on repeat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr1bfmHHxbc
These folks make everything look so easy.

Working on a Suzuki engine will make you understand why Honda's and Toyota's have such good resale value. I had a 99 Camry and the Oil filter was in the easiest spot to locate. Suzuki? Nah lets put the oil filter on the bottom end of the engine, with some cross members, brake lines, and AC lines blocking the way to make it more difficult to access. EGR valve? Lets make it so you have to take off half the engine just to access it.

On a more positive note, the Suzuki has been very fun in the snow, fun to do donuts in a few inches of fresh powder snow, you can also go around and pass all the slow front wheel drive hondas during snow storms and can beat anyone off the line at the stop light in 4 wheel drive engaged. I practice in open icy parking lots to intentionally lose control of the zuki and learn how to recover and regain control, its very fun to do, more fun since the 4 wheel drive system lets you lose control unlike something more advanced in a Subaru drive train. Lots of people are scared to drive in the snow, I like to let loose and have a little fun.

 

[jstyles503]

One thing i forgot to mention. On my 2006 XL7, ALL the gaskets i took off including the 3 gaskets associated with the EGR Valve were metal EXCEPT the throttle body gasket.

I re-used them all and replaced the throttle body gasket.

 

[dieselfuelonly]

Figure I would add my experience w/ my parents 2002 XL7

Replaced the battery that was in it from their purchase a few months back and upon installation the engine would not maintain idle. Took the Idle Air control valve off clean and inspected it put it back on and still would not maintain idle. So we adjusted the throttle cable slightly so it would maintain idle.

Father said he noticed his gas mileage went from 19mpg to 17mpg and one day last week it began running real rough and would not maintain idle. Mother limped it home and hooked the code reader up and got three codes, one was for the heated o2 sensor, one was a gross leak on the vent valve at the gas tank and one code was a EGR code P0401 IIRC.

Finally located where the EGR was and wasn't to thrilled. I removed the front intake manifold so I could remove the plastic manifold that sits ontop of the fuel rails and attaches to the throttle body. Had a rodent that pulled nesting material up underneath the plastic intake.
We then removed all the cables, connectors and lines (vacuum and coolant) from the manifold and throttle body. Then removed the bolts that run from the lower part of the rear manifold down to the passenger exhaust. I removed them from the exhaust manifold at first thinking I would be able to pull the manifold up out w/ it still attached as it wasn't the easiest to access the two bolts that held the upper part on the intake. Unfortunately that did not work and I had to proceed to remove the top bolts and unbolt it completely from the exhaust manifold and intake. There are a few hoses that are a pain to get on and remove along with fasteners for the EGR tube and the main wiring harness that runs behind the engine that are a pain to access also.

After getting it removed and pulling the EGR it was indeed fairly filthy and the one port on the intake was completely plugged. So we sent both intakes up to local machine shop to be cooked and glass beat and did ohms readings on the EGR which came back within spec.
Got the intakes back and went to install the rear intake on w/o the throttle body to make it easier to maneuver. The two studs on the intake that the throttle body bolts and fuel lines prevent this from being possible. So unbolted the manifold and EGR tube got the throttle body on and everything back together and it is running good.

Plan on attacking the gross leak from that purge or vent solenoid back at the gas tank next

With the right sockets/wrenches you are able to pull the rear intake w/o fooling with the fuel rail/injectors.

Used 1/4" drive on some of the fasteners.

Here is a photo of the intakes after cleaned. Didnt get a before tho

 

[Donewrken]

Reading through this thread, I noticed this and couldn't just leave without spilling the beans.
It's like one of those old jokes that plumbers or mechanics have and keep to themselves preventing
the job to be done easily by the average Joe in the general population.
In telling about this I am sure I will be forever banned from some
tight knit group somewhere. . . . . . . .

SOOOOOO!!!
Don't care.
Ready ?
Here ya go -

went to install the rear intake on w/o the throttle body to make it easier to maneuver. The two studs on the intake that the throttle body bolts and fuel lines prevent this from being possible. So unbolted the manifold and EGR tube got the throttle body on and everything back together

Did you catch it?
I didn't either until after I did the same thing as above, then the eureka moment arrived and I said, "what if".

What if a guy was to remove the two studs, so, I did.

Other wise it is physically impossible to get the throttle body back into position with the collector in place, it just won't slide past all of the bumps in the pathway.

I thought to myself this is one of those insider thangs them factory guys all know about but are sworn to secrecy they will never divulge.

Once the studs are removed, however,
the two top bolts can be started, then put the nuts on the studs,
a dab of blue Lock Tite if you wish on the stud threads and turn them back in.
You could double nut them to get them back to their original positions,
then remove the outer nut and cinch em down.

If you've done this procedure you understand what I am saying.
If your going to be doing this, remember this step when you go to put it all back together,
it will make sense when your at this point.

EDIT
If you have watched the video of the mechanics removing the intake manifold you will notice he stops when he realizes the throttle body could not be removed.
I spotted that when watching the video but didn't know what the reason was at the time.
It was because the studs on the bottom of the throttle body prevented it from sliding past the intake runners and fuel rail.
I have removed the two studs, throttle body and the collector without needing to take half of the top end off.
/EDIT

Don

.

 

[darko21]

Hey Donewrken how did you removed the studs from the throttle body? I have removed the throttle body before but I have to remove the fuel rail.

 

[Zukiz]

Hey Donewrken how did you removed the studs from the throttle body? I have removed the throttle body before but I have to remove the fuel rail.

12 mm on an extension theres a youtube video gives you step by step incase you forget where anything gose

 

[darko21]

Sorry but I can't seem to figure it out. I'm trying to remove the throttle body studs "the two studs that are on top". So I won't have to remove the whole fuel rail. Can you post any photos please?

 

[Max]

http://youtu.be/8qYKMtb3Jpo

 

[ricolaw]

Hello all,
This is my first post, and I am attempting this EGR replacement on a 2001 V6. I joined so that I could get the pics on page one of this thread...they do not appear for me. Can someone repost those? Can I get their url, to see what I am getting into?
I did see the video of the guy taking the intake manifold off, and the throttle body. Does this absolutely have to be done? Is there no way to access the EGR valve from any other point, even underneath?
This GV is throwing codes that all point to the EGR valve, and it is the only issue with this ride. I would hate to have to get rid of it just because it won't pass emissions.
Any help or guides would be greatly appreciated!

 

[2013GV]

remove inlet manifold, remove throttle body...

or, remove engine, then remove intake and throttle body.

Only way you will get to it. its not a big job if you are mechanically minded, just annoying to do. Make sure you get ALL the passages clean.

 

[birmingham.clayton]

I found this thread very helpful, so I thought I would share my experience. I apologize for not providing any pictures.

Fiance's Grand Vitara with the 2.7L V6 was idling rough, difficulty restarting after it warmed up, and finally through a code after the CEL came on.

P0401 - Low flow to EGR Valve

Before ripping into EGR valve itself, I tried the basics. I treated the gasoline with a can of Seafoam. I used Seafoam spray into the throttle body as instructed on the can. I also replaced the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium plugs. The I took it for a spirited test drive as the Seafoam instructed.

The results.... it didn't run any better and may have even run a little worse.

Great... so I start reading up on removing the EGR valve from the Suzuki Factory Service manual. The manual says to remove the intake manifold completely. I was not about to rip all this apart if there was no need too.

I looked the engine over and decided to try just removing the EGR valve as it was. I have fairly small hands, and using some small socket wrenches and a mirror I bet I could do it.

Tools Required:
1/4 and 3/8 drive metric socket sets (6 point sockets preferred deep and shallow)
Various length socket extensions to make life easier
A new battery terminal brush
A mechanics mirror
Bright light
(1) full can of carburetor cleaner
(1) can of penetrating lube
Patience

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove (2) 8mm bolts securing the engine cover.
2. Use 10mm socket to remove battery terminals and then battery strap. Remove battery and set aside. Now you have some area to work.
3. Remove (1) 10mm bolt supporting the center of the EGR tube
4. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the passenger side manifold.
5. Remove (2) 10mm bolts attaching the EGR tube to the bottom side of the intake manifold. Use a small tool mirror to get a look under the manifold if need be.
6. Remove the EGR tube from the vehicle. BE AWARE THAT THERE ARE SMALL METAL GASKETS ON EITHER END OF THE TUBE. These can be re-used.
7. Remove (2) 12mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the engine. BE AWARE THAT THERE IS A SMALL METAL GASKET BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE EGR VALVE.
8. Now that the valve is free press the left center of the electrical connector on the EGR valve. Work the valve free from the connector. Mine came right off.
9. Remove the valve.
10. Measure the resistance between pins 1-2, 3-2, 4-5, 6-5. Resistance should be between 20 to 24 ohms. If not, replace the valve. Pin layout on EGR:
1 4
2 5
3 6

11. If the electronics check out, use a carburetor cleaner to blast out the valve. I prefer Gumout. I sprayed it out really well, then fill the valve with Gumout and, worked the valve plunger back and forth with a screw driver and then let it soak for 15 minutes.
12. After soaking, I used a brand new battery terminal brush to remove as much buildup in the valve as I could. This made the stem off the plunger appear shiny and new again.
13. I sprayed the valve out really well with Gumout again. Then I filled it with PB Blaster and let that soak for about 15 minutes after moving the plunger with the screwdriver again. Any penetrating lubricant will work here. After soaking the valve, rinse out with Gumout to remove any excess lube. I hit it with compressed air to make sure it was dry.
14. Now you are ready for installation. Follow the steps for disassembly in reverse with 1 exception. Mount the EGR Valve and THEN hook the electrcal connector back up.
15. One tip for getting the EGR back on is to feed the passenger's side mounting bolt through the valve and lay the gasket on top. Use the mirror to guide your self in and get the bolt started. Then check the gasket alignment and install the other bolt.
*** After breaking all bolts loose with socket wrenches, I was able to remove them all with finger tips.

This took me less than 4 hours to do with several interruptions. I had the old valve out in about 45 minutes.

I hope this will help someone in the future. It save me $200 for a new EGR and who knows how much in shop labor to either replace this valve or clean the existing one. I am very much a do-it yourself kind of guy. With 1 SUV, 2 trucks, and a quad it is the only way I can afford to keep all of these things.

Edit: I forgot to add the results. The GV starts right up now and idles smooth. I believe there is more pickup in the engine after a good cleaning and tune up. I imagine that there will be a slight bump in fuel economy. She was averaging 20.7 mpg when I pulled the battery.

I can also tell you that for the first 5 miles of drive or so, when I would shift the GV from drive to park, it would stall the engine. This went away after a little while. I believe the transmission was still calibrating until it reached operating temperature.

All the pictures are gone now, unfortunately, and my 06 GV 2.7L is showing all the signs of the EGR valve malfunction. I realize this is an old thread, but does anyone have the pictures to post from this job, or verify what wizkid claims here? They haven't posted in a while, so I'm not sure if they're still active on here. I just think it's odd that one person says this can be done much simpler, but everybody ignores it and pulls the whole manifold off.

Also, it's my understanding that EGR procedure on the 2.7L is essentially the same as the youtube video posted for the 2002 mode,

. They don't show a lot of detail in the video, but I think I get the basics. I would really just like to avoid that whole mess if possible...

 

[bb1]

Having the same problem with my 04 xl7. Code p0401. Anyone had any luck cleaning the ports using seafoam upper intake clean?? Removing front and rear intake looks like a pain to do..

Sent from my SM-A600P using Tapatalk

 

[Max]

Seafoam is discussed earlier in the thread.

This thread died long ago, but some good information still remains. Unfortunately the key posters of yesteryear haven't even logged in for ages, and attempts to try and bring them back to the table via PM has failed as well (to re-post the lost pics discussed early on).

A fresh outlook (thread) with new info and active Members is what this subject needs now if interest still exists.

If deemed appropriate, I can reference / link this thread in follow-on discussions if need be.