Anyone??? Please???

 

Could you confirm what you have, I'm not aware of a 1.0L of that age. It may depend where you are, in the UK it was never referred to samurai just SJ410. As you mention condenser I assume it still has points.
Welcome to the forum.

 

Thank you Darrell!!

Yes, it is a carburettor 1.0L. I am in Portugal. This is my engine:

I changed the ignition coil since the values I got from ohmeter were high, comparing to the chart I had to test it..... My conclusion is that the problem is between the ignition coil and the plugs.... since the cables are new and everything was running smoothly, it must be something in the distributor...... the contact needle (I dont know its name in english) seems fine, no corrosion on the distributor.... no corrosion in the distributor..... I really dont know what to do

 

I've uploaded the ignition section from the workshop manual. You should have a PM shortly.

 

If you're getting a spark at the coil but not at the plugs, the problem will either be the rotor or the distributor cap.

 

or leads......check the lead coil to distributor. Hopefully the spark from the coil is big, fat and blue. If its not, look for bad connections on the 12V side of things.

 

Thank you all... I will study this carefully

 

fordem I am also wondering if the solenoid is giving the coil the propper tension....

 

Thank you 2013GV,

All the leads are new and were working fine.... I am looking for an easy way to test the distributor

 

The function of the distributor is to trigger the coil to produce the spark and to send or distribute that spark to the correct spark plug, the fact that you're getting a spark at the coil indicates the distributor is working - the rotor and the cap are the two parts responsible for sending the spark to the plug - which is why I am pointing you to those two items.

 

Sorry I didnt explain myself.... the coil works with direct 12V from the battery and testing the negative with a wire in a grounded area to produce a spark in a test plug.... when I install the coil again it does not produce spark

 

Crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and watch to see if the rotor turns - you may have a broken timing belt.

Looking at the parts catalogue for the SJ410 it appears that your car may have the old style distributor with contact breaker & condenser - if I am correct on this, disconnect the wire from the coil to the distributor and connect a low wattage 12v bulb (a side light bulb will work) from a 12v source to the distributor and turn the engine over slowly - the lamp should light when the points are closed and go out when they open - it might be an idea to replace the points & condenser as these are considered "tune-up" items.

 

Mr. Fordem ; is it that the points are what make the ground? Which in turn makes the coil spark? That is transferred to the center of the cap, the rotor then transfers the spark to the correct spark plug at the proper time? I am not much on electrical either. Just what I get from people trying to explain. Hope I'm right.??

 

That's right.

 

Thanks for the picture.

 

Hi fordem...

That was really my first thought since the car stopped working while in motion.... but when I try to start the car the rotor spins...... unless the starter is directly connected to the distributor itself... is it the case???

Thank you so much!!!

 

The starter has a gear that engages with another gear on the edge of the flywheel, it turns the crankshaft, which turns the camshaft via the timing belt, and the camshaft drives the distributor via two more gears.

If the distributor is turning you need to look at the contact breaker points next - like I mentioned before, connect a lamp bulb to the distributor and feed +12v to it, and slowly rotate the engine, the lamp should go on & off.

 

Thank you so much forlem,

So I can eliminate the timing from the equation..... the rotor is turning.

I will test the breaker..... one thing I notice is that the coil gets very hot, even if I am not trying to start the car... I mean with the key in position 2. I am starting to think about the condenser, since the contact breaker visually is working..... but I will test it as you said.

Again guys, thank you so much for helping me.... troubleshooting with you is so much easier....

 

Did you bench test the coil or did you take the HT lead from it to a spark plug direct and crank the engine. As Mr Fordem says have a check of the points they are generally the weakest link. I've seen people let them ware down so badly they stick, I seem to remember the condensor is mainly to stop the points arcing so does an vital job but haven't dealt with points for many years so may well have forgotten.

 

I seem to remember the condensor is mainly to stop the points arcing so does an vital job but haven't dealt with points for many years so may well have forgotten.

The condenser also stores energy which it discharges back into the coil when the breaker opens, no condenser or a defective condenser will typically give a weak spark, which may prevent the engine from starting, or if it does start it will run poorly.

One of the "quick & dirty" tests we used back in the day was to turn the engine until the points were closed and then flip them open with a small screwdriver and look for a spark at the points.

 

Is the ballast resistor connected correctly. The coil should only get about 9v when not cranking. I do seem to remember the coils getting hot if you leave the ignition on to long when not running.

 

Thank you for your input Darrell,

I benchtested the new coil ( I replaced because the other one was really old anyway..) by connecting the positive directly on the battery, and grounding (intermitently, of course) the negative in a good grounded surface to produce a spark ( I connected a spark plug directly to the coil with a spark plug lead. BTW, all the leads are Bosch brand new, and they were working OK, so I would eliminate them also from the equation.... as you are sugesting, I will test the breaker circuit carefully....

About the ballast, it already came installed with the new coil... so the 12V enters in one point, and the other point is connected to the positive of the coil, resulting in about 9V when not cranking.... I never tested the voltage when cranking, in my understanding the starter solenoid should give the coil 12V directly, correct? (i have 2 wires connected to the positive, one comes from the resistor, and the other one I suppose it comes from the solenoid)...

 

Yes that right :thumbsup:

 

Always learning.... thank you guys....

I was also searching for some tips about installing a new breaker, since I don't have that "gap tool" I don't know the name.... I saw some people installing them with a business card... I don't know however if this is a good practice...

 

Tool is a feeler gauge, ever so cheap. Just checked my debit cards, 1.0MM so there too thick. A business card may well do as a start to get it running.

 

points gap if you don't have a feeler gauge is problematic, but your index finer nail is about 0.015" which is about right for a good starting point.

1.0mm is 0.040", too big.

if they are closed when on the "heel" of the cam lobe in the distributor, and open when on the "bump" then you should have spark. Gap isn't super critical to prove spark, just opening and closing.

 

Thank you.... I didn't have the idea it was a cheap tool... I will buy myself one of this... since I haven't done it before, is it easy to change the breaker and adjust it properly with the feeler gauge?? I mean, at a first glance, the job is get the distributor in the point of max. closure of the points, undo 2 screws, take the old, put the new, put the 0.5mm gauge between points and screw...am I missing something??

 

Check your handbook for the correct gap, sets are available that cover 0.0005" to about 0.025 in 0.001 " increments.

make sure points are on the head or peak point of the cam, install new set, rock engine over until points actuating arm is on the "peak" of the lobe, adjust gap as required. Adjusting screw just over finger tight so the points won't move on their own, usually a straight blade screwdriver in a notch at the end to assist in adjustment, then tighten the adjusting screw(s)

 

I had the same problem with my 87 Samurai. Over the past two years my wife has had to come tow me five times. My local auto parts guy suggested I get the distributor rebuilt. Sent it in, got it back, and no more problem!

 

Atölye kılavuzundan ateşleme bölümünü yükledim. Yakında bir PM'iniz olacak.
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Hello Darrell. May i get that manuals. My sj413 has a ignition problem.