Bear, install a bypass like the RV water heater one except use automotive products.
I always want my heater to work just in case the engine runs a little on the hot side pulling up hill, etc. Then I open the windows and turn the heater on full blast and that will help cool the engine, believe it or not.
Marvin


https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+water+heater+bypass+valve+diagram&tbm=isch&imgil=kYm3abWrhq4U5M%253A%253BTTmrf3CrcWzmgM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.crossroadsowners.com%25252Fforums%25252Ff13%25252Fwater-heater-bypass-valve-12480.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=kYm3abWrhq4U5M%253A%252CTTmrf3CrcWzmgM%252C_&usg=__ML-BLmyWhNB47BauKVa6QO4vtYA%3D&biw=1184&bih=541&ved=0ahUKEwi69OmSrpPUAhUi8IMKHayRDH8QyjcIOw&ei=DCorWbq-E6LgjwSso7L4Bw#imgrc=kYm3abWrhq4U5M:

 

That is an interesting configuration. I was just going to use a single feed cable operated valve to control the inlet at a Y connector and install a Y in the outlet hose to form the bypass so a continuous flow is occurring with the valve shut. When the valve is open for heat then fluid will flow through the HC and the bypass hose at the same time.
B95

 

Did you ever hear back from BtB about the hose sizes on the bypass they offer?

 

5/8 of an inch.

B95

 

I am still working on this and have changed directions a bit. I found this bypass valve A/C Replacement Parts | Classic Car Replacement Parts - Old Air Products - Heater Valve and it wasn't as outrageously
priced as the one from BtB.
Now a question, the instructions said to connect the inlet hose from the intake manifold to the bottom of the valve then to the heater inlet (bottom fitting). The ? shaped hose that connects from the head to the top fitting of the HC is marked inlet hose on parts lists so is the top fitting indeed the inlet side?
Also, since the space is so limited I was thinking about unbolting the motor mount and jacking up that side of the engine a bit. Anyone have any idea how much I could safely cock the engine before I start pulling on hoses or wires? Is there anything I need to unplug or remove to prevent damage?
Interesting enough, a caution tag was included that said to maintain adequate antifreeze levels and to be sure to let the fluid circulate through the open valve/ heater core (before closing the valve) prior to operating the A/C so it didn't freeze the HC and damage it!
BTW, I found 1/2 to 5/8 barbs to connect the valve.
B95

 

I have all the parts I need to do this and I am starting on Monday. I will have to flip the valve over since the heater inlet IS the top connection. This will save having to cross hoses over each other at the HC. I contacted the vendor and got the OK to flip the valve as long as the correct connections were made according to the directions. One thing I didn't know was that the inlet port will pivot so I can turn it and run a nearly straight hose from the back of the head to the top of the valve.
I looked at KickFix's site and have decided to remove the upper half of the intake manifold to allow me more room to work and easily access the outlet hose that connects to it. If there still isn't enough room for my "catcher mitt" hands then I am removing the lower part of the manifold.
Instead of a push/pull cable, I purchased a throttle control for a tiller and I figured I could mount it to the bottom edge of the dash or on the lower driver's side console.

B95

 

I am still proceeding but not really rushing it. After I removed the Y shaped brace that runs from the intake to the lower engine and the battery I have enough room to see and work. The hose under the intake wasn't that bad but the one on the back of the block was the PIA. I used a long handle pair of needle nose to get the clamp open and backed off the connection. I have one of those hose removal tools and it worked like a charm. I just hooked under the edges and wiggled around a bit and the hoses pulled right off.
I should have purchased the pull to close 25-1019 valve since I turned the one I purchase upside down and flipped it 180 degrees. I was able to remove the cable bracket and flip it over and rebend it so I now have a pull to close valve. I am going to mount it from a bracket I made that will hang from the intake.
I am also going to take advantage of the now exposed started connections and thoroughly clean them while I am at it.
B95

 

How long it takes to clean them though?

 

You may want to clean/dielectric grease the alternator connectors while the brace is off also.

 

Hi Bear95. If you decide to re-up your pics, I for one would be interested.

I have ordered similar parts. Instead of a cable operated valve, I ordered this vacuum triggered one:
Four Seasons 74809 Heater Valve

And this vacuum switch to operate it:
Intake Manifold Runner Control Solenoid Valve

No idea if there will be enough room for the Four Seasons valve but I am going to give it a try.

randy

 

Randy,
I will try to get them posted in a couple days. My valve is mounted to a bracket that is mounted to the intake and allows it to nestle in the space under it right in front of the Y stiffener brace. I used the ? rear hose and attached it to the front connection. The curve that originally allowed the rear hose to connect to the HC is perfect for routing the hose around the front of the Y brace so it is facing straight towards the firewall. My manual valve is quite large.
B95

 

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80609&stc=1&d=1500511518


As you can see, I haven't hooked up the on/off cable yet.
The top hose connects to the back of the head/block. I had to rotate the connection to face toward the rear and I used a straight piece of hose (see the shaping coil).
The next one down connects to the heater inlet.
The next one down connects to the heater outlet.
The one in front connects behind the Y brace using the question mark shaped hose that originally connected the engine to the heater inlet.
Please don't judge my bracket but there is a second piece of metal above the edge of the pic that connects it the other end of the intake to stabilize it. It is very solid, but not pretty!


B95

 

Thanks, Bear.

That is interesting where you ended up mounting your valve. I would have expected closer to the firewall, but I am guessing there was just not room there.

My valve arrived. But I am little worried about. When I blow thru the tube to it seems to me the internal butterfly does not seal all that well. Maybe I got a bad one, or maybe there is a decent amount of internal seepage past the butterfly to be expected.

Did your valve seem to close off the ports pretty tight?

 

The place I mounted the valve allowed me the most room to work, allowed an easy kink free connection to the front hose, allowed an almost straight routing of the heater hoses as well as the top hose. Closer to the fire wall would have require sharer turns in these hoses. I was happy to find out that the top connection would pivot backwards because I didn't want to have to do a sharp bend to route the top hose back to the rear of the engine. I did measure and cut all the hoses with the valve loosely hanging, but did all the connections to the valve with it removed. I then did the engine/body connections with the valve in place. If you look closely you can see that none of the hoses cross over each other or touch each other. I didn't want any rubbing or wear.

Yes my valve closes tightly. I blew through it before the install to verify it worked. Also when at operating temps, if I slide the lever to heat there is only cool air coming from the vents so yes the hot coolant is being successful and completely bypassed. You can also see in the pics that my valve has stops to not over pull the level. When I flipped the valve, I had to rebend them to the front so that is why they a buggered up a bit.
I may revise my mount and use the stiffener bolts but the way I have it works perfectly. The on/off cable is long enough to come around the front of the rad and drop down a bit to connect. I will do that when it cools down a bit.
B95

 

If you have the VAC operated valve, try flow when vacuum applied..

... Philip

 

I tried it with manually pushing down on the vacuum actuator, and then even took the vacuum actuator off so I could be sure and move the butterfly lever fully.

I can tell the engaged butterfly is making a difference, but i can still fairly easily blow thru the port when I have blocked off the ports that should get the routing. In other words, when activated for bypass, and I block off the return port of bypass, the heater core ports will still allow some of my mouth blown air thru. (not as much as when not activated, but still more than I would expect)

randy

 

great info Bear. Thanks for being the early adopter for us.

I am going to source a different valve, I think mine is just poorly built. I think I will hunt for an electric one this time.

The VW water cooled Vanagon crowd has been making this same mod. About half of them are using an electric actuated valve and the other half a cable. I am going to dig into those forums a little more to see if anybody found an electric valve cheaper than what I have seen so far.

I want to be able to turn the bypass off easily on the fly. I dont want to be halfway up a trail and realize I am overheating and not be able to turn the heater on for some emergency additional cooling. This did happen to me once about 2 years ago before I replaced a partial clogged radiator, and although it was miserable in the car, I think turning the heat on helped me avoid a warped head.

The vacuum actuated valves were OEM on some early GM US cars and on some Ford Fiestas sold overseas. I might try EOM vacuum if i cant find cheap enough electric version.

ALSO, on a bit of a side note, my rubber flaps behind the headlamps are kind of falling apart. I should really concentrate on fixing those before this mod. My AC issues are really only at slow speeds are idling. And those flaps are designed to help prevent hot engine bay air from getting sucked thru the condensor/radiator while driving slow or parked, but allow passage while on highway.

thanks again Bear95, for sharing your work.

randy

 

Your welcome.

Old Air has an electric controlled one on Amazon for $100 but I didn't want to spend that much money if I couldn't make this work.
I will be able to control the valve from inside when I connect the cable. The end of the goldish bracket that has the cable mounting clip is out of the pic. I'll post when I complete the install.

Thanks for the insight on the rubber flaps. I had no idea why they were there.


B95