Normally, you don't adjust the idle until you check out the various circuits and ascertain why the idle is dying. Idle is just a symptom of a problem, rather than a problem itself, and adjusting the idle without fixing the problem often creates other problems as well. Presumably you have checked your EGR system to make sure that it is clear - the diaphragm sticking in the forward position when you come to a stop is one reason why the car would die. When you do come to a stop, can you rev your way out of the stall? Give some detailed info as to what cold idle is, what warm idle is, whether you have any bogging while running, good power at WOT, etc.

 

No I have not checked the EGR (I will today) Cold idle is fine, yes when I come to a stop I can rev my way to keep it from stalling. (I used to be a forklift driver and I can brake and use the accelerator at the same time with one foot)... Car runs like a champ once going down the road. It will do 65 with no burbs at all..... I agree I want to find the problem and not have to adjust the idle..

Now to find the EGR......

Thanks

 

Passenger side, rear of cylinder head.

 

Thanks I just got home from the gym.... I'll check later.... Start up was OK but it died at every stop....

108 temp here in the Central Valley of California today YUCK

 

Look at the 2nd page here:
Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo
Following Ranger's location, you can see what the EGR looks like. One of the tests is the 'stall' test (shown on the 2nd page) - you push the diaphragm forward carefully while the car is running, and the car should try to stall. When you let the diaphragm go, it should snap back strongly to the rearward position. Not snapping back strongly would cause the car to stumble when you're coming to a stop. Normally, if you can rev your way out of a stall, the EGR is the problem. Tons of info on how cleaning this on the forum, with carb cleaner, as well as the ports you see when you take the valve off the car.

 

Thanks Bex I think I found the EGR (thanks Ranger also) also thanks for the link to Acksfaq I looked all over his page and could not find what you did...... I will try and check it tomorrow (busy day here) using your suggestion. I do not have a vacuum pump to be able to do the book described method..

I'll post what I discover....... Lee

 

No need (yet) to do the vacuum test. Find the EGR, have your car idling and warmed up, carefully push the diaphragm forward (be careful as it could be hot) and listen to hear if your idle drops down considerably - which it should, if the passages are clear. Then let the diaphragm go - it should SNAP back. If you have never done so, it is a good idea to remove the EGR valve, clean all with carb cleaner so that all the orifices are clear, and the diaphragm moves smoothly on its spindle. If it's really dirty, you may have to soak the EGR in carb cleaner overnight, but be careful not to soak the diaphragm. The vaccuum test basically indicates whether or not the diaphragm can still hold vacuum, by the way.
While the EGR is off the car, you can also see the intake and exhaust ports which you can clean and ream out with carb cleaner, etc. Note that the EGR has a gasket, and if it is a paper one, you may need to replace this when you have taken the EGR off the car (or get gasket material and make your own). Before you put the EGR back on the car, start the car up for about two seconds. The car will rev very high, and should blow more carbon out of the port for you.

 

I don't have time to actually work on the EGR today but I was able to feel around and felt that it indeed has a diaphragm and I pushed on it very easy and it moved about a 1/32 of a inch and clicked. I have fat fingers and also could not actually see what I was doing. It looks like I can take it off and use a mirror to look BACK in the manifold to see if it clear. I am pretty sure the EGR has never been removed......

I do have a question for you Bex how am I going to test it when it won't idle?.......

Thanks again........ Lee

 

You mentioned some about cleaning the MAF, that worked and went bad again. Before going too deep, just at some to look real quick and easy. By any chance do you have one of those re-serviceable air filters like K&N? If so, could be too much oil in the filter and is gumming up the MAF.

 

I would check for intake leaks and make sure that the Idle Speed Controller is working properly, it should add extra air (dashpot effect) during deceleration to prevent stalling.

 

Thanks Richard for the thought but NO....

My Tracker is soooooooo stock even the lighter works...... LoL