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Check engine light wont go out on 1998 Vitara

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35K views 51 replies 5 participants last post by  autotune  
#1 ·
Hi there, I'm new to this but I'm having problems with my 1998 Suzuki Vitara 16v. About a month ago my check engine light came on and it was starting to stall at junctions and traffic lights. I have changed to distributor cap and the Lambda sensor and the spark plugs and this seems to have sorted out the stalling, however, when I disconnect the negative to the battery, the light seems to reset but as soon as I start my engine, 30 seconds later it comes back on again. :confused:Any one any ideas what it could be. I've had the manual out and it seems to say locate wires under the steering wheel and switch the switch to the opposite side but I've had half the car apart and can't find any switch!!!!! Can anyone please help me????Thankyou. :)
 
#2 ·
What country are you in?? In the USA, on the 1998, you need either a code reader or a scanner in order to pull the codes from the ECU. I think that Autozone (if you are in the US) will do this for free, or else you can buy a scanner - they are not too expensive. When you are pulling the battery, you are resetting the ECU. Then when you start the car, it is picking up the code again.
The switch that you are talking about is the 'service engine soon' switch (or nag switch), but I do not think that your car has this. I believe they are only on 89-95 cars, at least in the USA.

If you are outside of the US, then your car is probably still OBD1 and you may have the nag switch. On my car, just under the steering wheel, there is a little door or panel. You remove the panel, and put your hand down in there, on the forward (engine) side, and you can feel a switch that you move from side to side.

You need to advise what country you are in.
 
#3 ·
Hi there, I'm in the UK. :)
I've taken the door thing off under the steering column and looked for the wires the book was telling me but I can't seem to see a switch. Does it only have a few wires to it or loads of wires to it? I did see a plug that was black and what looked like it had a yellow switch on it but was attached to the car and couldn't move it and I didn't want to pull on wires I'm not sure about. What does the switch look like that I'm trying to find? I bought a OBD ll reader but when I plug it in it wont connect to the car. I've taken the car to various garages near me and they all get the same error.:confused: It has just hit 64.200 miles could it mean it's asking for a service?
 
#6 ·
At 64,200 miles it is unlikely that this is the nag switch. It usually goes on at mileage like 50,000 or 100,000, etc. It may be that you need to pull codes. Here are instructions:
Check Engine Lamp stuck ON?

However, you will NOT be able to see the nag switch (if this is what is causing the light to go on). You must feel for it. It's just a tiny sliding switch:
my NAG Lamp stuck ON page?
 
#7 ·
There are no nag switches on UK models. 1998 would be quite late for a first gen. 16V, they were usually 8V 4u models in that year. If its a 16V then I would be very interested in looking at it, are you anywhere near Swindon?
 
#8 ·
Hi there,
Many thanks for all these solutions, it is very much appreciated. Sorry, I'm no where near Swindon, I live on the border of Lancashire and North Yorkshire.
When it origanlly had the distributor cap changed the light was flickering, then my mate took it off to c if that was the faultly part and as we drove to the place to get another one then the light went off but when we changed the cap the light has stayed on ever since. My partner believes he turned the mix thing to low hence why it was conking out. It seems to run sweet now with no stalling at juctions since he changed the mix so it now has a tick over rev of 800 rpm. Could him turning or playing with something set the mixture wrong and thats why its detecting a problem. My partner believes hes messed with the wrong one! Will go out and insert a pin soon and see what trouble codes I get. Thank you.
 
#9 ·
There isn't any mixture adjustment on a 98, I would guess that he has adjusted the idle speed setting which has masked the actual problem.
 
#10 ·
@Rhinoman, I've been out to the car and from you link I poped the bonnet and next to the battery is the fuse box only. I'm I to run a pin from C to B in to the plug that the OBD reader would go in, which is under the steering wheel. Do I insert the pin and turn the ignition on and it will flash??? Thank you.
 
#11 ·
Check by the driver's side headlight, it might be there - it should have a rubber cover over it. The connector under the dashboard is for a scan tool only.
 
#12 ·
I'm uploading a video to You Tube....2kwonderwoman. I started the video and showed all the lights on the dash before I started the engine and I went under the dash and around the engine. Hope that makes more sense. There is plugs next to the drivers head light but theres 3 of em???? Hopefully if you see the video when it eventually up loads u and I will have a better idea.
 
#15 ·
Right, Ive been out and found the plugs behind the headlight and there was 2 of them covered by a rubber cover. There was a 4 pin connector (with only 3 wires leading into it)...that wasn't it so I took the rubber thing off the 6 pin connector ( with 5 pins into it) and put the paper clip into that and started the car and it flashed a error code of 34 which looking on the link you sent me is a mass air flow problem....My blokes gone mad cause he always said it was that!!! (He was unsure how to read codes) Many thanks for all your help today and yesterday. ;-)
 
#17 ·
I've managed to get the lights to flash and it flashed a 3 and then a 4, when looking on a link that was sent to me its showing as a mass air flow problem. My partner has taken the top off and we have found the problem, he thinks its got water in it some how and that is the problem, he messed the light went out. After I've changed loads of bits on it it turns out it was the 1st thing he said but was unsure as every other mate said different.:D Just need to get a circuit board for it now and its not cheep:(
 
#18 ·
Glad you found your problem.
Now, maybe someone else here on the forum will know if this will work, but as your car is still OBD1 (similar to the 1995 and earlier USA cars) perhaps it is possible for the MAF from the 1995 Suzuki Sidekick to work on your car. Frankly, I find that Suzuki parts are quite expensive over here, and often order from the US. Even with shipping costs, I save a ton of money. And the exchange rate is quite good at the moment. Just in case someone advises that this would work, here is the good deal for MAFs at Rock Auto:
1995 SUZUKI SIDEKICK JX Mass Air Flow Sensor
(Beck/Arnley is a good company)
 
#20 ·
I've been round all the breakers yards today and can't get the part for it, I've looked on eBay but I get replys that it wont fit. Rahhh. It's a pain that it's a 16v and quite a late edition. I think it's gonna have to a Suzuki part unless I know for sure what I need to buy. The car runs fine without it and still starts when the sensor is disconnected. Is the part really needed or is there a way that my partner can solder a wire and use a resister to by pass the problem? When we took the top off you can see it's the curcuit board, when he fiddled and messed the 'check engine' light went out quite a few times.
 
#21 ·
the maf has a part number on it.
some in UK have 57B00 the toilet plunger.
and others are 58B00 hit wire, MAF can see all way thru it. all usa maf are 58b here.
both MAFs are show at the bottom of this web page. (testing)
Howto-test-a-MAF

here is the 58B. ( telling which one helps find them)
Image
 
#26 ·
I uploaded a video to you tube 2kwonderwoman if that helps. Yes it does run fine. It don't stall anymore since my partner turns the revs slightly up so it was idle at 800 rpm.
It's too dark here now to upload any photos but will go out tomoro and look for the numbers and try to upload one.
Many thanks for all your help guys, I'm so glad you've helped, you've helped me loads and I am very appreciative.