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Carry 2001 1.3 Clutch Questions.

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clutch
4.6K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  2013GV  
#1 ·
Hi everyone! I'm based in the UK but most of my questions could be answered by everyone.

I would like to change the clutch on a very dear friend's 2001 Carry for him; trying to save him a few bob. I have found it very hard to get workshop info about the vehicle (doesn't seem to be a haynes manual??) but I reckon there can't be that many idiosyncracies and I have changed clutches on other Japanese RWD vehicles (MX5) and I'm sure there will be a guide on youtube or what have you. I have kept his van on the road for some time now by servicing whatever parts I can and dissuading his partner from making him sell it! He loves his Carry and I intend to keep him driving it! On to the questions:

1)Can anyone point me to the best resource/youtube vid with instructions for changing the clutch or warn me of any pitfalls that one might not expect? A workshop manual would also be appreciated, if anyone knows of one.

2)Is the clutch cable self adjusting or can I tighten it for the mean time? How much can I get away with tightening it by? I tested his clutch (tried to pull away in third) a couple of months ago and it happily stalled, but he was complaining again recently so I gave it a little drive and found straight away that something was wrong. I was idling along in 1st and when I throttled the engine freely revved but the vehicle didn't accelerate, so I concluded from that alone that the clutch was not functioning correctly. While I source the parts (read on) I was wondering if I can just tighten up the cable to give him decent use of the van on whatever clutch remains? I will still change the clutch because it is time to do so judging by the mileage.

3)This is my BIG question: WHY DO THESE CLUTCH KITS COST 4X WHAT ALL THE OTHER CLUTCH KITS COST??!?!!? I can't work out why vehicles with the same 1.3 engine (Swifts and such), apart from being FWD I assume, have clutch kits that cost a normal amount (£40-£60) but the lowest price for the Carry van I could find was £120 and for a reputable brand they came in at £150-£180. EVEN THE BUS TYPE CARRY takes the cheaper clutch, but the van type supposedly needs the more expensive one???? Is there a reason for this? I strongly suspect the better value clutches will be servicable and from what I can see they are the same diameter (190mm) SO WHY IS THIS ONE SO EXPENSIVE?!?!? I am seriously tempted to buy the better value one and drill my own bolt holes to seat it if that is the only difference. Sorry for all the capital letter outbursts but it just seems so bloody bizarre, maybe someone with more knowledge than I have about Suzukis could enlighten me?

Any general advice would be most welcome, thanks for reading and have a marvellous day!

Tom

PS: Was also wondering if engine has a timing belt or a chain? Since I'm taking care of most every other part of servicing his van, I figure I should replace the belts/water pump (at least the alternator belt) but am not very familiar with this particular engine.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Toss it away, its not even good for wiping bits of your anatomy with as the papers too shiny, so full of incorrect information i will never even puck one up now.

Its a std manual type clutch, just a heavier duty one in the vans which is why it's more expensive. Don't be tempted to try a cheaper one, it won't fit.
Treat it like any other rwd clutch and you will be fine.
 
#4 ·
Changed my 2002 carryvan clutch somewhat over a year ago. Just like any RWD clutch as far as procedure goes. The 5 spd trans is light enough that I just laid on my back under and lifted it into position without any difficulty.(I am 82 Years old). As I remember, the hardest part was reconnecting the one shifter cable that is hard to get to. I had to adjust in quite a bit of extra freeplay at the pedal in order to keep the clutch fingers from interfering with the disk when depressing the pedal fully to the floor.

Fred
 
#8 ·
Some manual transmissions do use ATF, but as far as I know, the Carry transmission is not one of them - if I was your friend, I would find a copy of the owner's manual or the FSM and get the recommended lubricant - if it's a GA413, then a 75W90 GL4 gear oil is what he should be using.
 
#10 ·
My manual shows to use GL-4 and 75W-85 weight for the transmission from -30C to +40C temp range and also shows 80W-90 from -20C to +40C so viscosity is not so important as long as it is higher than 75W. Shows 1.3 liters for volume. When I changed my clutch, I drained the transmission before removing it to prevent the oil leakage out the tail as you mentioned, also the fact of not knowing how long the oil had been in there makes it worthwhile to do an oil change.

The manual also show the engine as belt driven SOHC, do not know what the engine series is, but does show as 1.3 liter as size.

Fred
 
#11 ·
My manual shows to use GL-4 and 75W-85 weight for the transmission from -30C to +40C temp range and also shows 80W-90 from -20C to +40C so viscosity is not so important as long as it is higher than 75W. Shows 1.3 liters for volume.
Thank you very much for this information, Fred. I could not think of rhyme nor reason why ATF would be used in this gearbox, so my suspicions were correct. The strangest thing is that Halford's (the biggest casual consumer auto franchise in the UK) will give you ATF if you give them the registration number of your Carry and ask for gearbox oil.
 
#12 ·
As has already been mentioned, there were a few manual transmissions over the years which the manufacturers recommended to use ATF but not that many. I can't imagine any reason Halford's would do such a thing unless there is a misunderstanding amongst the salesperson. Just one more reason I always encourage one to do their own due diligence, especialy if there is some question in their mind about what has been presented(either proper parts, proper info or proper procedures).

Fred
 
#14 ·
The vehicle is not an import, at least not that any of us are aware! Hmmm I think I will change to manual transmission oil next time I work on it, but it's been running fine on ATF for God knows how long. I did a bit of research and ATF has all of the properties of MTO, just has a few extra properties, too. Doesn't seem to be doing any harm in there.
 
#15 ·
Its a damn sight lighter in viscosity tho and not designed for helical gear loads you get in a manual transmission. It doesn't have the same ep additive pack thats in manual gearbox oil
 
#16 ·
Yeah, I knew it was not ideal and that I was right but it's hard to argue with the computer systems that say that that is the right fluid to be in there. I shouldn't have doubted myself.

2013GV when you say helical gear loads you mean like a in a spiral pattern, a worm gear? and ep stands for?
 
#17 ·
Helical cut is the gear tooth cut, google is your friend, basically angle cut
EP is extreme pressure additive