[Clive Parnell]

HI Martin

Thanks, the kit looks exactly like yours but arrived with no instructions, but that was the only part of it I wasn't sure about so thank you.

Good question Clive!
the fuse that you piggyback off of has sufficient capacity for both seats. You simply connect both seats to that single supply point. The writing kit that comes with the kit is self explanatory 👍🏽

 

[martin1977]

HI Martin

Thanks, the kit looks exactly like yours but arrived with no instructions, but that was the only part of it I wasn't sure about so thank you.

If you get stuck, give me a shout. Make sure you have a good supply of the thin cable ties. You’ll need them!! 👍🏽

 

[martin1977]

Morning all, after a few weeks of snowy weather here in Scotland and the seasons tally sitting at 3(of) cars towed so far… a first fault started to present itself!

One of my front parking sensors started to play up, constantly reading an object even while driving normally… a bit of digging around and upon inspection, it looked like the sensor face had been hit by a stone or piece of gravel… the indent is tiny but nevertheless is ‘there’…

you need to zoom in real dose to pick this up, it isn’t the easiest thing to photograph!

everyone favourite auction site to the rescue here with a £39 purchase…

everything I’d read says the best way to change these out is to remove the bumper… worth noting there are 2x sensors on The lower bumper and 2x that sit higher up beside the registration plate. I think they have different part numbers so wouldn’t be interchangeable… my damaged item was the lower flavouring…

there had to be a quicker method than removing the bumper… my first thought was taking the wheel off and removing the arch liner…. Then, Looking underneath the car. There are 3(of) trim screws… I loosened one of these, screw 1, leaving this still connected to help with reassembly later.. I then removed screws 2 and 3.

pushing this now loose trim up revealed…
one easily accessed parking sensor…!

it’s the a simple case of unclipping the two edges, the sensor then loosens and withdraws towards the engine bay. This allow you to change her out… all in an hours job turned into 6minutes!

everything back together and working 100%

 

[2013GV]

Yep, different part numbers and not interchangeable as one set is the transmit, one set is receive

Glad you got it sorted and in minimal time. Thanks for the pics and a write up.

 

[lr.mazzocchi]

Genuine question: why should I spend that much for spring+shock when I can use spacer to lift the cars (that are cheaper and easier to install)?

I also have another question: I see some rust underneath your car and in the old shock absorber; do you leave in a “bad” environment like close to the sea or is this a common vitara problem. I previously had a Toyota (urban cruiser 4wd) and I used it with no mercy, never had rust problems

 

[fordem]

Genuine question: why should I spend that much for spring+shock when I can use spacer to lift the cars (that are cheaper and easier to install)?

A "spacer lift" moves the "resting point" of the suspension down so that the car sits higher up - generally speaking it does not provide any increase in suspension travel, and depending on how it is done, you can end up with reduced travel. In contrast, a properly designed/selected "spring+shock" combination can provide the same amount of lift, along with increased suspension travel and improved ride comfort.

Many spacer lifts focus on "cheaper and easier to install", the cheapest will be nothing more than a spacer that sits above the spring, this will move the suspension lower in it's travel, without changing the maximum extension of the shock, potentially causing the shock to "top out" on full droop, it also doesn't move the bump stop, potentially allowing the spring to become "coil bound" on full compression - either condition makes for a "bone-jarring" ride.

Let me make it clear, both of these potential issues can occur with a "spring+shock" lift, hence my qualifying it by saying properly designed/selected,

 

[lr.mazzocchi]

A "spacer lift" moves the "resting point" of the suspension down so that the car sits higher up - generally speaking it does not provide any increase in suspension travel, and depending on how it is done, you can end up with reduced travel. In contrast, a properly designed/selected "spring+shock" combination can provide the same amount of lift, along with increased suspension travel and improved ride comfort.

Many spacer lifts focus on "cheaper and easier to install", the cheapest will be nothing more than a spacer that sits above the spring, this will move the suspension lower in it's travel, without changing the maximum extension of the shock, potentially causing the shock to "top out" on full droop, it also doesn't move the bump stop, potentially allowing the spring to become "coil bound" on full compression - either condition makes for a "bone-jarring" ride.

Let me make it clear, both of these potential issues can occur with a "spring+shock" lift, hence my qualifying it by saying properly designed/selected,

Thanks very much for this explanation.

Since I want to contrast, as much as possible, the roll on-road and I need ground clearance, it seems to me that more suspension travel will be worse both on-road and off-road.

Also I don’t understand if the spacer go between the spring and the shock or between the chassis and the spring-shock assembly; in the second case only the pivots and bushings will be affected (or not?)

 

[fordem]

Thanks very much for this explanation.

Since I want to contrast, as much as possible, the roll on-road and I need ground clearance, it seems to me that more suspension travel will be worse both on-road and off-road.

Also I don’t understand if the spacer go between the spring and the shock or between the chassis and the spring-shock assembly; in the second case only the pivots and bushings will be affected (or not?)

First - there may be a bit of a language barrier/translation issue here - I'm not certain what you mean be "contrast (as much as possible) the roll on-road" - are you referring to "body roll" or sway?

Reducing body roll & suspension travel are more of an "on-road" handling thing than off-road, and the two different usage scenarios are sometimes diametrically opposed in their requirements, you may have to pick one or the other.

For "on-road" handling, the norm would be to reduce the ride height to the bare minimum possible, stiffer springs, minimal suspension travel, heavier anti-roll bars, large diameter rims with low profile tires and so on, off-road, depending on what type of off-roading you're into, generally goes the opposite way, increased ride height, long, soft springs for more travel, higher profile tires, some folks remove or disconnect the anti-roll bars.

I know this is probably not going to sit well with a lot of people, but, I do not consider the fourth generation Vitara as suitable for anything more than the mildest of off-road usage - I have one, a 1.6, with AllGrip Select, it IS vertically challenged, and in my opinion, the suspension design does not lend itself well to suspension lifts of any sort. The same incidentally can be said about the new 2024 Grand Vitara, which would be the fifth generation.

If you're going to fit a spacer lift, ask the manufacturer of the lift where the spacers fit - the front is a MacPherson strut, spacers can be placed at the bottom of the spring between the spring and the strut, at the top of the spring between the spring and the strut mount, or at the top of the strut between the strut mount and the chassis - the kit manufacturer is going to determine where his product goes.

Be warned - the control arms on this vehicle have a vertically oriented rear bush, a very common design used on many front wheel drive cars - generally speaking, this design does not work well with suspension lifts, on rough surfaces the rear bush has a short life span, and when lifted the life span is significantly reduced.

Rear suspension is a "torsion beam" with coil springs, spacers can go either above or below the coils, again the kit manufacturer makes that decision.

 

[Auriga]

I am about to buy a hybrid Allgrip Vitara after nearly 300000km in our 2007 Mk1 Forester ( don't knock it - total replacements one clutch and 4 shocks). The main thing I will miss is the old Forester's remarkable combination of handling on ordinary roads with suspension which can cope with the worst. The question I have for Martin 1977, is whether 25mm more suspension travel (about 20% more than standard?) and better shocks makes a significant difference, positively (on the rough stuff) and negatively (more roll at an earlier limit?).
Where we are in rural Italy the roads are not just potholed, but suffer badly from subsidence, causing what I call the Grand Canyon effect - deep (30cm+) gullies and sudden camber changes. Most so called SUVs, with short travel saloon car suspension, find this difficult to cope with at anything above 50kph, while the Forester glides past at 80kph, making full use of its long travel suspension, ground clearance and axle articulation.
I have driven a 1.4s Vitara on similar roads and, while it's better than most SUVs, it pitches much more than the Subaru and the rear soon reaches its limits . Given the shortcomings of the rear beam suspension, I don't expect miracles, just enough to get it a bit closer to what I'm used to. In other respects, it's just what I'm looking for: smaller, more efficient but with similar performance, 4x4 when I need it eg. for towing and local white roads. Now's the time to buy, because it's being discounted with a replacement likely in the next year or so.

 

[martin1977]

At my last MOT, the observation noted was that the rear disk (offside) was needing replaced. They were absolutely correct in flagging this up. It WAS needing replaced .
a set of Febi Bilstein discs and Brembo pads to the rescue for the princely sun of £76.

rear brakes are relatively straightforward for the amateur mechanic (myself) and some basic tools…
First things first, loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up. make sure your car is in 1st gear and leave the Handbrake ON!

Now, undo this screw…

it might be tight and be careful not to chew it up… a squirt of WD40 will help.

next up, release the handbarake making sure the car doesn’t move on the jack and undo the brake fluid reservoir cap…. Check that the fluid isn’t above the MAX level…. If it is.. you’re going to need to remove some of that!
Undo the top 2 bolts that hold the brake piston on… they’re 14mm.

the piston will come off and pull to the side.. this frees up access to the 2(of) piston carrier bolts which are also 14mm.

remove those and remove the pad carrier and it’s old pads.

you’re now left with a disk that should remove…. I previously had trouble in removing my rear disk as it was so stuck in position… probably there from new (8yrs!) my sincere thanks go to Mr Antony Loukidis on the Facebook Vitara owners forum (from Athens, Greece) for providing this gem of info…

id normally persuade the old disk to come off with a hammer.. despite trying this to no avail… the disk removed in 2mins with Antony’s guide. if you ever read this - Top work sir.

Re-install the small screw that holds the disk in place. You don’t need to overtighten this. It simply keeps the disc in the correct orientation for the wheel bolts.

now wind back the brake pistons into their retainers. I forgot to take pictures of this but YOUTUBE has plenty videos of how this step is done. Keep checking that your brake fluid doesn’t rise above the MAX limit.. as the piston is wound back, the fluid level rises… If you don’t have a wind back tool.. long nose pliers make do in a pinch.

stick your new pads into their carriers and mount these to the hub… Then mount the calliper with its bolts.. a little copper slip on the bolts goes a long way for any future work needed…
Job done in less than 30mins….

 

[martin1977]

A little vinyl wrapping to the front of the car over the past weekend. Depending on your wrapping ‘skill level’, you can do this with the grill in situ.. I’m not that great so I decided to remove the grill and dismantle to make the job easier.

There are 4(of) plastic clips on top of the grill that pull up and remove.. a small flat blade screwdriver helps! Next up, the grill pulls vertically to remove the 4(of) anchor clips…. Next there are approximately 16(of) screws in the back of the grill, simply remove these and keep safe… this allows the pieces of trim you want to wrap to be removed..

I used a matt black wrap as it matched the rest of the trim pieces…


I drew around the trim to get a basic shape, then used some heat to soften the wrap before getting it nice and tight. Use a craft knife / Scalpel to cut the trim and fold around the edges… its then a simple job of re-assembling and re-installing on the car…

 

[Joër]

That's looking mint.
I also want to have another colour on the grey part, where the numberplate is. I read that this part van be bought in glossy black, but I can't find it. Did you perhaps see that somewhere?

 

[martin1977]

That's looking mint.
I also want to have another colour on the grey part, where the numberplate is. I read that this part van be bought in glossy black, but I can't find it. Did you perhaps see that somewhere?

I’ve never seen The lower bumper (grey) part for sale. A number of owners have used PLASTIDIP paint to make this section Matt black.
im not one for trying that… the photos I’ve seen look good, it’s up close I’d be worried about.

 

[J.R. Kerry]

 

[Rikikion]

Another frustrating issues I’d been having was while using CARPLAY via the USB port.. no matter which cable I used.. from genuine apple to ungenuine banana… I’d get intermittent connection and drop outs meaning that I’d need to disconnect and reconnect my phone, sometimes 3x in the same song!

on the ’Viva Vitara’ forum, one of the chaps had bought a wireless Interface box.. basically you can use CarPlay with the phone still in your pocket rather than always docked Via cable.. he claimed this worked without issue.
£52 later and this arrived.
View attachment 108528
View attachment 108529

straightforward enough…
Forget the Bluetooth to the car… connect the Bluetooth to the device…


View attachment 108530
View attachment 108532
View attachment 108531
it works an absolute treat.

driven around all day, lots of little journeys without a single interruption. 👍🏽

Hi there!
Does it work with Android Auto?

 

[J.R. Kerry]

Another frustrating issues I’d been having was while using CARPLAY via the USB port.. no matter which cable I used.. from genuine apple to ungenuine banana… I’d get intermittent connection and drop outs meaning that I’d need to disconnect and reconnect my phone, sometimes 3x in the same song!

on the ’Viva Vitara’ forum, one of the chaps had bought a wireless Interface box.. basically you can use CarPlay with the phone still in your pocket rather than always docked Via cable.. he claimed this worked without issue.
£52 later and this arrived.
View attachment 108528
View attachment 108529

straightforward enough…
Forget the Bluetooth to the car… connect the Bluetooth to the device…


View attachment 108530
View attachment 108532
View attachment 108531
it works an absolute treat.

driven around all day, lots of little journeys without a single interruption. 👍🏽

I put some double-sided sticky tape on the top of the Carlin dongle and stuck it to the "roof"...top of the shelf....over the USB socket....cannot now be seen and frees up that little shelf, for use.

 

[raysalaf62]

With an hour to kill before the Mrs and I headed out, this morning was DashCam fitting time.
Anyone whos ever gone through the PITA that is contentious insurance claim, these things are worth their weight in gold… maybe even diamonds.. simple to fit, saves a lot of BS.

fitting is straightforward..

I mounted mines up behind the rear view mirror, means it gets a good view of the road and is hidden from the drivers view.
the power cable tucks up nicely under the headlining, I used a trim tool to push her underneath.
pull The door seal outwards and you can see a route to put the cable down the edge you’ve just exposed.

the fuse box is in the passenger footwell (LHS). The two pieces of trim gently pull away. This exposes the fuse box.

for anyone who doesn’t have an owners manual, here you go.
View attachment 108242
View attachment 108243

you have a choice of where to plug the dashcam into.
I went for fuse 29. This switches on and off with ignition which is exactly what I wanted.

you need a piggyback fuse holder like this.

View attachment 108244

simply remove the factory fuse, they’re a pain to get out.. and plug your piggyback holder in its place.

View attachment 108245 J

There’s a handy earthing bolt right where you need it!!
your dash cam also doesn’t work on 12V.. it’s 5V, a bit like USBs.. you need a little power transformer to wire in line..
both can be seen here..

View attachment 108246
once installed power her up and make sure it switches on and off with the ignition…

View attachment 108247
View attachment 108248

best to do this on a warm day.. the fuse box is fiddly and awkward to get into.. cold hands make this tougher than it should be!!

Hi,Martin is there an airbag situated behind a pillar trim?..Great tutorial by the way

 

[martin1977]

Hi,Martin is there an airbag situated behind a pillar trim?..Great tutorial by the way

There is indeed sir…… be gentle and make sure you route the wiring to the back/rear of where the airbag sits. That way if it ever needs to deploy, it can do so without restraint.

 

[martin1977]

There haven’t been many updates on my thread as there hasn’t been many issues to resolve, just happy motoring!!

the car still performs ace down the muddy tracks when I need it…

passed its MOT last week without a single issue….

and is booked in for a basic service at a small independent garage next week…

 

[Joër]

Where did you buy the red accents? I've got exactly the same car and it looks great.