I've been working through the FAQ thread at the top of the Gen 2 section, and I just wanted to say thanks to the forum and @Max who authored that thread. I've been learning quite a bit.

 

While I wait for the caliper, thermostat, radiator cap, and cv axel from rockauto, I am tinkering on some of the other things that are next on the repair list.

I moved it in the yard last night and barely nipped a tire that is laying there, and it bent the fender even further.

So with a bolt, fender washers, a cut off cheap socket, and a lock nut. I bolted through the good metal of both the fender and rocker.

Broke off the bottom that was hanging by a thread.

A little black spray paint and it'll hardly be noticed.

Not great door gap, but the door opens without catching and the fender won't catch everything or vibrate when driving.

A few zipties keeps the plastic inner fender in place - what is that called? And what are the plastic body pins/keepers called?

 

It’s a fender liner. Fender liner clips:

Amazon.co.uk : fender liner clips

 

Thank you.

 

Looks a whole lot better on the ground.

 

This is a change holder? Seems about useless.

 

I drove it on ramps and black-taped the hose where I felt a hole. I cleaned the hose with alcohol to get a better seal. The 4WD came on, but the light flashed nearly constantly. So, either the patch is leaking, or there are multiple other leaks.

It appears to be regular vacuum type hose. Am I correct here?

 

I got a piece of hose and replaced the hose that I'd taped. The light still flashes but not as fast. I will chase down the rest of the leaks, but for now at least the 4wd does work.

A broke down vehicle without 4wd is just a broke down vehicle. But a broke down vehicle with 4wd is a 4×4! It didn't do anything to help me get it on the road (waiting for parts), but it sure made me feel better.

 

I bought some radiator flush to try to remove any of the stopleak that might still be in there. I suspect that the thermostat is stuck closed or stopped up because it comes up to temperature very quickly. I am not sure what I should do, should I use the flush then change the thermostat? or should I change the thermostat and then do the flush? Maybe I should remove the thermostat all together and reassmeble it with a gasket, then do the flush and then install the new thermostat.

 

I suspect that the thermostat is stuck closed or stopped up because it comes up to temperature very quickly.

One purpose of the thermostat is to get the engine to operating temperature quickly.

 

Very true. I mentioned previously that it is coming to temperature much quicker than it used to. It used to take 5 miles and is now getting to temperature in 1/4 mile.

When my radiator blew, there was some fibrous material in the crack, and plugging the overflow hole. This makes me think my buddy put some stopleak in it, though he didn't mention it. Whatever it is, or however long it's been there, I'm thinking it's clogged up the thermostat.

 

Driving from a standstill with constant acceleration to reach around 45 mph and to have driven 1/4 mi will take around 40 seconds. After having the engine running for 40 seconds it will show operating temperature on the gauge?

 

Yes, that's correct.

I just gave it another test (I patched the cv boots, so I wanted to test them to see how well it'd hold up), I drove for a few minutes down my jeep trail/in my field. It came to operating temperature, so I took it up the road to the Y and it got to the redline. It's uphill to the Y, so after I turned around I cut it off and coasted back home. So, definitely a stuck thermostat I think.

 

It had a slight miss also when I took it up the road. No idea on that, other than it needs new plugs. Plugs, boots, and air filter are inbound.

 

For the CV axle boots, I started by approaching it differently. I searched for emergency cv boot repairs and found where some offroaders had made some field expedient repairs to get them back home.

So, I took some cling wrap for palletizing, and wrapped it around the cv boots. Then I put zipties on either side of the boot holding the wrap down. Then I duct taped it thoroughly and added zipties to hold the duct tape ends in place.

I took it back in the field, not rough, and did use the 4wd not that it really would make a difference, and turned the steering to its extreme in both directions several times. I checked it and it was holding solid.

It'll be interesting to see how long this patch holds up. It certainly would be knowledge that's good to know should I ever venture farther than the field behind my house.

 

red line? on the coolant gauge? if yes: avoid doing that, for testing or for other reasons, it can damage your engine. Shut the car off if you see the needle moving past the middle, if you need to continue driving for a short distance, wait until it cooled down, drive until it reaches the middle, shut the car off as soon as movement to the right, repeat if needed.

 

Thanks.

It appears it was low on water. I checked it when it'd cooled enough to open the cap, putting in almost a gallon. It was still about half warm, and I took it back to the Y and it didn't get over half. Though that's still very fast coming up to temperature from what it used to do.

 

Anyone know the amount of coolant fluid it should take?

 

Approx 7 qts or 6.6 liters

 

Overheating this engine will cause big problems….like needing a new head gasket. And presumably you’re not running with just ‘water’, but coolant?

 

Yes I know not to overheat the engine. My understanding is that as long as the needle is below the redline, it's "Okay" for short periods of time, but much preferred to not get above the normal spot. It doesn't have a temperature gauge proper, just the normal indicator without numbers. Of course I note where the needle normally is and assume thats approximately 180º F.

Yes, only water. I lost all my coolant when the radiator blew and haven't replaced it yet since I'm waiting on a thermostat and am going to flush the system.

I haven't been driving it to town or for extended periods of time, only for short trips to check various things I've repaired or to move it on and off ramps. Thats why I didn't realize it didn't have enough water in it, because I hadn't taken it farther than the 1/4 mile to the Y.

 

I just drained the radiator, it had some anti-freeze still in it as it came out green. I got about a gallon and a half I'd guess. I put half my bottle of flush in and filled with water. Went to the Y, and it got hotter than the needle shown so I cut the engine and coasted home. I still suspect the thermostat is stuck closed.

I am going to pull the thermostat and reassemble without it and then drive it a bit to let the remainder of the flush do as much as it can. I will probably cut the guts out the thermostat so that the O-ring will seal correctly. Then, I'll put a the new thermostat in. My reasoning is, I don't want to ruin the new thermostat right off the bat if there is some stopleak in the system. I hate that crap.

 

You don't need to drive for getting the engine warmed up.

 

True, but I have never let the car warm up before driving, so I don't know how long it'd normally take. I know how long it takes relative to driving distance though. In the winter, I let cars warm up, but I start them and they idle for however long before we get ready.

 

I probably wouldn’t assume that teh temp gauge is accurate to the millimeter. The temp gauge is basically important when it indicates that the needle is sitting in a place where it didn’t sit before. My temp gauge needle has sat at 1/3 for years. If it went to 2/3, I‘d be concerned and shut the engine off. You should not assume the engine temp by virtue of the needle. Get an IR thermometer so that you know the actual temp.

 

That never occurred to me. I would like an infrared thermometer for my bullet casting stuff as well.

 

Last call on the trim... It's in the garbage can. I'll pull it out if anyone wants it or a piece of it.

 

I am thinking ahead. Once I get my immediate needs out of the way, and I have time to do such, what are things I'll want to do to the car/engine to ensure it can be a reliable vehicle for years to come.

It has 262k miles on it, is there anything other than the timing chain and tensioner that should be given attention to?

What about a head gasket? Maybe replace some parts inside the head such as valve springs, seals?

What other things are things that I should think about doing along those lines? Or is it basically considered dead because it has so many miles on it unless It gets a complete engine rebuild? I have never rebuilt an engine. I don't particularly want to either. But changing a timing chain and tensioner over a few days would be well worth it in my estimation.

 

My research on these 2.0 engines shows that the sign they "need" a timing chain is the rattle. It doesn't rattle thankfully. I assume I should change it at some point just due to miles on it?

I take it that timing chain failure is not common with this model of motor regardless of age, is this correct? Other than having new parts for reliability, does replacing the timing chains restore power lost or make it run better?

 

The best thing you can do for a J20a to ensure reliability is routine maintenance, regular oil changes with the correct grade of oil and the correct filter, missed oil changes is what causes problems with the timing chains. A split second of timing chain rattle on a cold start is not uncommon, but anything longer than a second or two is not a good sign.

If you're curious about the general health of the engine (any engine), do dry & wet compression tests, in the US you should be able to "rent" the compression tester from the nearest auto parts chain, post the dry & wet numbers and lets see what they look like. Put an oil pressure gauge on it and report the pressure with the engine warm and at 4000 rpm.

 

Thank you very much.

 

Don't try to remove the screw, and yes, die-electric grease can be used.

 

Thank you very much for the help.

 

I replaced the plugs, gapped .039 per the hood sticker, and boots, cleaned the rust from the coil packs as mentioned.

I removed the thermostat, gutted it, then reinstalled it. I put the other half of my radiator flush in and filled it with water. Then I started it to get the air out. Without the thermostat I could see water being moved by the water pump.

I then proceeded to take it for a test drive, about 5 miles in all. The needle didn't get as high as normal (expected). It didn't get hot, and confirmed that the thermostat was indeed stuck. In fact it ran as good as it's ever ran.

 

When I got back (since this is the only time I've gotten the transmission warm in as long as I remember) I checked the transmission fluid. It's so low it doesn't show on the stick after being wiped clean.

Is there any reason I should NOT use Lucas transmission fix in it? Transmission Fix – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive! In the past I've used this with great results. But because the Tracker is a different breed of automobile (not using thicker oil for an older engine was an eye opener for me) I want to check here.

I will probably need to add some transmission fluid anyways, what is the recommended type?

I have been reading about this some, and it appears I have a computer controlled 4 speed, since there is overdrive, is this correct?

 

> Dexron in the differential? um no

I will probably need to add some transmission fluid anyways, what is the recommended type?

I thought the question was ATF fluid type.

 

Dexron in the differential? um no

 

Thanks. Sure wish I'd have gotten a manual with my Tracker. A lot of questions are answered there.

 

Sure wish I'd have gotten a manual with my Tracker

The 2000 Tracker, 2001 Tracker and the 2001 Grand Vitara are all very similar. Here is the Owner's manual for the 2001 Grand Vitara. See page 2-21.