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Vitara S Knocking Noise from Rear Torque Rod?

8.5K views 27 replies 4 participants last post by  doctordeaf  
#1 ·
Hi all,
I've got a 2016 Vitara S (manual) which has developed a knocking noise from the transmission. It started doing it in reverse only, but over the last year or so it started doing it between gearchanges, and now even rolling on and off the throttle in traffic can make it knock.

My dealer has been useless, first saying they all do it, then they had the car for 12 hours and confirmed that it knocks (but didn't know why).

Anyway, to get the point. I got my partner to alternate between forward and reverse while I lay under the car, and there seemed to be an awful lot of movement in the rear torque rod, along with the knocking noise (altough it wasn't easy to hear exactly where the noise is coming from).

I've removed the rod and the rubbers haven't broken up, but the main bolt seems very loose in the bushing. Does anyone know if this normal? Obviously once clamped up it shouldn't move much, but I was expecting it to be a snug fit in the hole :confused: I'm more used to working on motorbikes though.

Thanks in advance,
Doc
 

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#2 · (Edited)
It might be worth checking the following link just incase the noise isn't actually coming from the torque link.
From previous experience knocking noises caused by objects that have found their way into the floor cross member can initially sound as if they're coming from the dashboard or engine bay area. A magnet on a flexible rod can be useful for trying to extract metallic objects.

 
#7 · (Edited)
No, it does it in a straight line, originally just when reversing, now whenever you change gear or often just rolling on or off the power. What's most annoying is that it was under warranty when I first noticed it in reverse, but I was fobbed off by the dealer.

I've been reproducing it by getting my partner to slowly release the clutch while going from forward to reverse with the brakes on; it knocks/clicks every time doing this.

Does it knock more when you go round a roundabout or sharp bend to the left?
 
#11 ·
That's interesting, because when I got a torch in there to see if I could see if there was any play on ball joints etc, I could see the CV joint 'twist' a mm or so in the hub backplate at the same time as the knocking noise.




Yep, I was hoping for something quick and cheap to fix, but I'd settle for anything to get rid of the noise now.
That rules out the CV joint which i was going to suggest may be causing it, when mine went it used to make a kind of knocking noise when i went round roundabouts but it was fine in a straight line, i hope you find what's causing it it'll be interesting to hear what the solution is.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the advice; It looks like that could be it then. I'll have a quick sort out in my garage tomorrow to make enough room to get the wheel off and torque up the hub nut (my garage is full of scaffolding, timber and motorbikes so it's a tight squeeze getting the Vitara in).

FWIW do you know if the service bulletin was for this model, or just a general Suzuki 'thing's to look for' type bulletin? The guy at the first Suzuki dealer said the noise was 'normal', and at the other dealers the mechanics just confirmed the noise (but not the cause).
 
#15 ·
Thanks again.

I did do a search for a driveshaft and one site said the number on mine 44102-54P50-000 has been superseded by 44102-54P51-000. I don't know if this is right. It will be worth knowing if I do have to start replacing stuff :confused: FWIW it was 2019 when I first reported the fault and 2020 when I took it to a different Suzuki dealer. Because of Covid I've only done 3000 miles since I got it...
 
#18 ·
if its slogged the splines, which I suspect it might have, you will need to replace the hub and CV shaft as a unit otherwise you will destroy the new cv shaft in short order. If you have a record of the initial warranty visit, I'd be having a go at Suzkui for a repair first under the TSB
 
#19 ·
Unfortunately the first time I noticed it I took it straight back to the dealer and the mechanic drove up and down a few times and said the sound was 'normal' for that model when going into reverse. It wasn't booked in or any paperwork done :(

I took the wheel off this morning to take a quick look at the nut and it look likes it's slackened off since it was assembled. I'll have another word with the local Suzuki dealer who took a look last, but I'm not expecting much.

 
#21 ·
During the 3 year / 60k warranty period, yes.
It wasn't a recall, it was a field remedy for any concern displaying the symptoms you had.
It must have only affected a very few vehicles as I've personally never seen an issue with one and I also own a 2016 manual Vitara S and it's been OK but I did check my hub nuts were correctly torqued when the bulletin was released.
Bulletin number is: BE-Q-G-053
 
#22 ·
My local Suzuki dealer confirmed the parts that would need replacing as they've changed the clearances to fix the problem. However, they also said that Suzuki wouldn't offer anything towards the job as I bought it S/H (from a main dealer) and it's now out of warranty :(

They're getting back to me with a quote for the new parts (and fitting if I want it) tomorrow. Not ideal, but at least the end is in sight. I was thinking S/H bits, but finding the later part numbers might be a PITA. If I could find the new bits S/H, swapping over a complete hub and shaft would probably only take me 2-3 hours. I wish I had access to their microfiche (or whatever they use now) to check which of the newer models use the same parts.
 
#23 ·
Unfortunately neither EPC or bulletin give you chassis break points as to when superceded parts were used in production.
I'd try retorquing the nut first and see how it goes, you might get away with it.
The old Grand Vitaras had a similar problem and all Suzuki told you to do was fit a new hub nut and retorque to a revised figure.
The torque figure you quoted earlier in the thread is correct.
 
#24 ·
I'm going to sleep on it (again) and see what figure they come up with :unsure:

To be honest I'd like to see what state the splines are in. I would have ripped it apart this morning but (a) I thought I'd give Suzuki a try first and (b) I need a new ball joint splitter.
I'd try retorquing the nut first and see how it goes, you might get away with it.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Well, in the end my local Suzuki dealer gave me a price saying it would be a couple of hours work, and 2-3 days to get the parts (if needed). It wasn't cheap, but I'm really busy so I bit the bullet and left it with them.

Yesterday I rang them to see if it was ready yet (they'd had it 9 days), and they said they hadn't even looked at the job yet as the driveshaft was on 'back order'. They said they would ring me back later in the day with an eta but nothing.

Today, still no call so I rang again and was told they hadn't contacted Suzuki yet. Several hours later I got a message saying they still don't know and it will be 'whenever Suzuki gets the driveshaft in'. Days? Weeks? Months? They couldn't say!

So now I have the car back, still knocking, but now looking like it's been tarred and feathered. God knows where they parked it to get that dirty that fast :confused:

So it's back in my garage tomorrow to see what bits I need from the breakers...
 
#28 ·
Yes, I managed to turn it a little (my torque wrench was nearly maxed out) and the clunk now seems to be a much quieter click, but not with every FW/RV change and only audible close to the hub (it may not even be the same noise). I also took it around the block and the noise during load ON/OFF is either gone or inaudible in the car. It's going to need a new nut (£13) anyway now as the staking isn't right, so I guess I should pull the driveshaft out and take a look at the splines on the shaft/hub? FWIW they have new a hub/bearing/nuts/clips on the shelf for £186 and a S/H drive shaft would be around £75-150 if I have to go that way.