mine got removed when they fitted the towbar, I use a straight tongue and a shackle and snatch strap for the rear

 

So you have no recovery points in the front ? I asked the guy and he said that when they fit a towbar on the front the mounting points for it (presumably the RHS at least) are no stronger than the existing tow loop (which they have to remove to fit a towbar). From what you say above I have the same as you in the rear.

 

I only have the spindly towing loop on the front but have made a set of recovery hooks and strengthened mounts for the front, only trouble is they hang down and reduce clearance. I have since modified my bash plates and am working on a clip in hook system that i can fit if i get stuck that spreads the load across the whole car. Haven't needed it yet thankfully, altho I have been towed out backwards a few times. The mean sods I go out with make me go thru the stuff first. Usually I make it and then act as a winch point for them as they get stuck.

My tow bar is a tow right, and I got a straight tongue and drilled it out to take a 1" shackle pin

 

My rear sounds exactly like yours. I have made a few mounting mods on my bash plates with a couple still to go but I was holding off on a permanent solution to the front plate until I had a recovery hook system that I was happy with. I asked about removing the tiedown hook and getting another tow point fitted with more substantial welding but he (tow right) reckoned the existing single tow hook should be adequate. I am not entirely happy with a single point because I bought a brand spanking new 3m equalizing strap. It almost seems as if you have either bash plates OR recovery hooks but not both. Next time you get a chance I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of your clip in hook system.

 

My rear sounds exactly like yours.

I could take that so many ways

when i get it finished and working (if it works) i'll certainly write it up. I don't trust that silly loop in the front one wee bit. I am working on a decent brace to fit across the front chassis rails between the engine and radiator and will anchor the bash plate to that then design a couple of clip in somethings to attach when i need a tow. I also need to re-design my "don't want to root the bumper" deflector to stop the strap putting force on the bumper when towing. I may yet scrap this idea and design a double screw in loop system attached to something substantial behind the lower grille. Its a definite work in progress. They have precious little ground clearance as it is, I don't want to reduce it any further.

 

The last idea of yours sounds interesting. I would have no issues with putting a couple of holes in the front bumper if something substantial can be found behind to attach something to screw into. As it is I have some concerns as to what would happen if you were unfortunate enough to bounce and come down on a large rock with the front edge of the bash plate since the bottom end cap of the radiator is just above it. It wouldn't even worry me if the hooks or holes (or whatever) extended out of the bumper to where they could be accessible but OSH might not be too happy. I guess maybe a couple of attachment points that could be screwed in would work as well.
The mods I am making to my bash plates are to try and make it easy to remove a bash plate without worrying about the bits of plate that fit internally into the chassis rails because they piss me off. I now have a removable plate for oil changes which helps a bit. I have the rear plate sorted (near enough anyway) but the front plate is a concern. More specifically the rear of the front plate which 'floats' since they have to clear something hanging down just below the chassis frame. And the bump in the middle plate to clear part of the muffler as it crosses over from one side to the other (its a V6 remember). It looks to me as if Suzuki made no effort to make it 4WDing friendly. But I am getting there. Recovery points are the last thing I need (which with the last few changes planned to the bash plates) I will be happy enough to say it is finished.

 

I was talking to a SA panel beater some weeks ago who has his SWB rigged up for towing behind his motor home (wish I'd got his name,) . He reckons the front loop is ok for slow pulls but said definitely Not to use a fast snatch. My
son bought me a fancy insert for my rear tow but really all you need is a C class rig and put the cable ettc thru the retaining pin. Been pulled out backwards once but now have locking diff and a pair of "bog outs," but haven't had to use them in anger yet.

 

I am reasonably happy with being able to be pulled out backwards or to pull somebody else out using my rear end but sometimes it might be so useful to be able to be pulled out by the front. Hence needing front recovery points. There does seem to be a few conflicting views about how much you should be able to rely on the front tow point, or more to the point, how it would function with a snatch. If you are in the front and get stuck you can be snatched back okay BUT what if the vehicle in front of you gets stuck (or the vehicle in front gets through okay BUT you get stuck) and you need to pull them backwards or be pulled forward yourself ? Then you need to have a functioning front recovery point(s). The older I get, believe me, the less likely I am in needing a snatch but shit happens so I need those points. When I bought my GV I was still under the impression that it had a separate chassis only to find Suzuki had bowed to cost pressures and taken it away. It would have been easier. Looking under the chassis now it seems to provide a couple of safe recovery points is going to cost clearance, compromise the bash plates, or require serious engineering.
I am not sure how to proceed and I have noticed that it isn't always an option to reverse or turn around your vehicle to only use the rear. The silly thing is that it wouldn't have taken much to add recovery points to the original design.
The bottom line is that if you get stuck and the only option is to use the front tow point then you will but before the event it does seem that you should make some effort to add something safer.

 

I am reasonably happy with being able to be pulled out backwards or to pull somebody else out using my rear end but sometimes it might be so useful to be able to be pulled out by the front. Hence needing front recovery points. There does seem to be a few conflicting views about how much you should be able to rely on the front tow point, or more to the point, how it would function with a snatch. If you are in the front and get stuck you can be snatched back okay BUT what if the vehicle in front of you gets stuck (or the vehicle in front gets through okay BUT you get stuck) and you need to pull them backwards or be pulled forward yourself ? Then you need to have a functioning front recovery point(s). The older I get, believe me, the less likely I am in needing a snatch but shit happens so I need those points. When I bought my GV I was still under the impression that it had a separate chassis only to find Suzuki had bowed to cost pressures and taken it away. It would have been easier. Looking under the chassis now it seems to provide a couple of safe recovery points is going to cost clearance, compromise the bash plates, or require serious engineering.
I am not sure how to proceed and I have noticed that it isn't always an option to reverse or turn around your vehicle to only use the rear. The silly thing is that it wouldn't have taken much to add recovery points to the original design.
The bottom line is that if you get stuck and the only option is to use the front tow point then you will but before the event it does seem that you should make some effort to add something safer.

I got caught the same way. Wish id kept my 98 and spent the money doing it up. Have a look at the Bogout site. Not perf
ect but they do work

 

Bogout does look like it might be useful under some circumstances. And I suppose you could use another vehicle as an anchor. If you are by yourself and no anchor points handy then not much use BUT neither is a snatch strap going to work. I will keep them in mind.
Just watched a utube video about the last 60 odd years of the land cruiser. I wouldn't mind betting that in 20 years time it will be very hard to find a decent 4WD vehicle that isn't festooned in electronic devices to keep you out of mischief. The manfs seem determined to make their vehicles more attractive to the man in the street forgetting that 95% of them will never go offroad.

 

The manfs seem determined to make their vehicles more attractive to the man in the street forgetting that 95% of them will never go offroad.

I think the manufacturers are banking on 95% of them never going off road.

 

Are you on Instagram? Have a look at this, need a few more interested in it to make it happen! Front recovery points!!!

 

Hey all,
You would be surprised how strong that front tow loop would be. I've had my 2011 3 door GV since new and always keen to off road as much as possible. That tow point has crashed into dirt mounds, rocks and snatched a few times. I'm not a careless driver, but when you get onto serious tracks, the front of the Suzuki can turn into a plough at times.
Seriously, with the cost of them rated points which take away ground clearance, let's face it, we ain't got much, get a tow bar or winch.
I haven't deformed my tow point and with careful snatching you won't have problems.
I found at times when stuck, good luck getting shackles or even soft shackle on, you got some digging to do.
Thought I'd share my experiences and really up to you if you feel the need of them.

 

Have a look at 'Bog Out' if you can reach any one of the wheels AND can lock the diff you can strap on a d.. (sorry I bad) strap the system around the tyre and use you own wheels to gather the strap around the wheel or both wheels.
as a recovery system it's only 2kg plus rope length. It can be used forward as well as reverse.
I've not had to use it but for a small SUV I recon it and a shovel will suffice.

 

Yes I've got two. Havent had to use them yet.....

 

I'd love to get 'real' testimonials from here if anyone has been forced to use them.

 

Has anyone tried "Truckclaws" ?? They look a lot less messy.

 

I juts saw pat calinans show with soft shackles. Interesting options. (large platted ball with platted eyelet in high strength rope)

 

Yeah well I have a set of Juliette's brackets installed already. I modified mine slightly (rounded the towing holes so I could use a soft shackle if necessary) and had them powdered coated black. They may well limit front approach angles slightly but I am prepared to put up with that for the peace of mind. They are almost invisible compared with the original bright red.

 

It might sound like a stupid Idea (I have plenty of them). But why not hide the shackle hole and attach further in the engine bay and add removable rope/steel cable extension (similar to soft shackle) come out and connect to bungy strap etc etc and let the cable/connection/soft shackle take the prtessure on a curved plate the diam of a winch. That way the issue of clearance while driving is no issue.

 

I have been a little concerned re clearance but after my last trip where I bent the smash plate up at the front, and as far as I can tell it did no damage, or even hit, the recovery points I am prepared to try and be a little more careful about front clearance angles. The whole issue of underbody protection is a bit moot. Comparing the clearances with, for example, a Surf the GV is woefully unprotected. But the problem with a Surf, for example, is that the underneath clearances are at the expense of cab room. I used to have a Surf and when I get in my mates Surf now I feel claustrophobic. The GV is very badly overexposed for clobbering almost anything underneath so even with smash-plates and a 40mm body rise you have to be even more careful. But since I don't go off road quite the same as I did in the Surf I am prepared to make some sacrifices for comfort. So the recovery points are okay. After having been in a few recovery situations if you want out with the minimum of fuss and maximum of convenience then you prewire all towing before you get in trouble. Or you could just steer 100mm left or right of the potential hangup points. The recovery points from Juliette are very substantial and I suspect they would just ride over rock.