[Rhinoman]

I'm still learning how to use my scanner but do have individual PID's and access to the raw data.

OK, can you read back Mode 01, PID 0 and Mode 1, PID 20? That will tell us what capability your ECU has over the OBD2 interface.

 

[magician35]

OK, can you read back Mode 01, PID 0 and Mode 1, PID 20? That will tell us what capability your ECU has over the OBD2 interface.

I have a list of PIDs' and I think I can have it show supported and unsupported. They all are identified as SAE 0x** (0x15 for example). Should I be looking for 01x0 and 1x20? (It's all new to me.)

 

[Rhinoman]

That sounds correct 0x just means that its in hexadecimal format (base16).

 

[magician35]

That sounds correct 0x just means that its in hexadecimal format (base16).

OK. 0x00 (zero) lists supported as 01, 03 - 07, 0C -0F, 10, 11, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 1C.
Monitored are: 0D, 10, 07, 0C, 06, 14, 15, 05. The double 14's and 15's refer to different PID's

0X01 (one) lists number of trouble codes, MIL indicator status and Available on Board Tests.

I can give you the titles of each PID.

0x14 (20) Lists sensor voltages. Malcolm

 

[magician35]

I think we're in business! After installing the new upstream O2 sensor (old one was not 2 years old and I did not suspect it until I got the help I needed interpreting the scanner from the forum.)

I filled the tank and drove it 50 miles on the freeway at 60 to 75mph. Then I topped off the tank which took exactly 2 gallons which is 25mpg. That's not a very accurate measurement but it has been getting 16 - 17mpg. The tail pipe which has always had some soot is absolutely clean.

Best of all, the scanner shows all monitor tests as complete and ready for smog testing. I'm not going to throw a party until it passes smog on Monday, but all indications are good.

It's a hopeless feeling when you've exhausted your knowledge and can't find a single person in the area who knows any more. But thanks to you experts, I've learned a lot about the 1.8 L and I hope I have opportunities to pass that on and help someone else.

The car has a few other minor issues which I'll eventually get into but, for now, I'll feel comfortable getting it outfitted to be our official "toad" for the motor home.

I would like to put my 1800 FSM Supplements on line and will do so if I ever get the chance to scan them. .... Malcolm

 

[aquanaut20]

Malcolm,

We are right behind you, buddy... Glad you have the final fix....

BTW: my last O2, only lasted 2yrs then flatlined, 0vdc (lifetime warranty), but too much hassle and cost to return..

... Philip

 

[Bex]

Hmmm, sometimes too much or too complex info muddies the water?? Early on, you advised that your o2 was only switching to 0.5v, rather than 0.1 to 0.9. By the way, I don't know what brand of o2 you used for your replacement - the Bosch is considered one of the best (they invented the o2 sensor).
Glad you finally got this sorted, and fingers crossed for your test...

 

[aquanaut20]

Bosch it was, cost too much to pay shipping both ways for replacement... New one delivered was cheaper...

... Philip

 

[magician35]

Hmmm, sometimes too much or too complex info muddies the water?? Early on, you advised that your o2 was only switching to 0.5v, rather than 0.1 to 0.9. By the way, I don't know what brand of o2 you used for your replacement - the Bosch is considered one of the best (they invented the o2 sensor).
Glad you finally got this sorted, and fingers crossed for your test...

You're right about that. Part of the problem was that, early on, I didn't trust my ability to use the scanner correctly and I certainly was hesitant to trust the salvaged ECU I put in. It was ironic that the up stream O2 apparently failed in the middle of solving the IAC problem. I initially wanted to blame the switched ECU for the bad readings on the O2.

Oh, well. I've been fooled by crafty vehicles before such as the time I did rod bearings in a '55 Chevy with the engine in the car. When I got the pan back on, I ran it for a while, got out to look underneath and stepped in a puddle of oil. It was leaking around the front end of the pan so I pulled it and re-did the gasket. That didn't help. When it was running, there was steady stream of oil dripping off the pan. I called a friend to help me put the gasket in right the third time. He declared the dripping oil smelled like transmission fluid. We finally found that there was a tiny crack in a cooler line which sprayed a nearly invisible jet of fluid into the frame in front of the engine where it was washing out the accumulated sludge from years of valve cover and front seal leaks. The motor oil/trany fluid combination which dripped off the front of the pan looked like motor oil, felt like motor oil but smelled like trany fluid. A new piece of tubing took care of that.

Anyway, I appreciate the help on this one and will post the results of the smog test tomorrow. ... Malcolm

 

[magician35]

Forgot to mention I used NTE (NKG) O2 sensors.

 

[Bex]

Good luck with the smog. Hopefully you will post back with your 'passing' results....

 

[magician35]

IT PASSED!!!

Everything looked really good except the HC at 15mph was 57 with a max allowable of 58. That's something that might be a problem the next time around or maybe it's just where the system holds it and won't get any worse. I have 2 years to think about it.

Thanks again for everybody's help. ...Malcolm

 

[Bex]

I must say, I opened this thread to read your latest post with just that slightest bit of trepidation!!
Well done!!! I'm really glad that you got this sorted (and, in the end, pretty easily too). As an added bonus, you also got more familiar with your electronic equipment. I must admit that I used to skim over all of that stuff when reading these posts.....

 

[aquanaut20]

When you have time to spare

High HC Emissions

Inoperative/missing catalytic converter
O2 sensor malfunction
Internal engine problem
Vacuum leaks (hoses, vacuum operated devices, intake manifold,)
Ignition system malfunction (plugs, plug wires, points, dwell, etc.)
Improper fuel injector operation
Incorrect ignition timing and/or idle speed
Incorrect air/fuel mixture
Defective EGR valve or air injection system failure


Also, must make sure the Engine and CAT are hot when running SMOG...

.... Philip

 

[magician35]

When you have time to spare

High HC Emissions

Inoperative/missing catalytic converter
O2 sensor malfunction
Internal engine problem
Vacuum leaks (hoses, vacuum operated devices, intake manifold,)
Ignition system malfunction (plugs, plug wires, points, dwell, etc.)
Improper fuel injector operation
Incorrect ignition timing and/or idle speed
Incorrect air/fuel mixture
Defective EGR valve or air injection system failure


Also, must make sure the Engine and CAT are hot when running SMOG...

.... Philip

The engine recently started idling a little rough in gear (not bad, but enough to shake the transfer case shifter) even though it's at the correct RPM. There may be a connection.

Inoperative/missing catalytic converter - downstream O2 is new and steady
O2 sensor malfunction - probably not at this point
Internal engine problem - will do compression check
Vacuum leaks (hoses, vacuum operated devices, intake manifold,) - have done a propane test.
Ignition system malfunction (plugs, plug wires, points, dwell, etc.) - plugs are new but don't know about wires, Will check the whole ignition system
Improper fuel injector operation - possibly. Put injector cleaner in today
Incorrect ignition timing and/or idle speed - both read OK
Incorrect air/fuel mixture - hope that's no longer an issue
Defective EGR valve or air injection system failure - computer likes the EGR and it is clean

 

[Bex]

Start with the compression test. Everything else depends on the foundation of proper engine timing.