I happened to watch Top Gear last night, and they were driving across Australia in a nice Bentley coupe. They said that the car has THIRTY computers in it. What a horror......

 

I would think that its a lot more than that, maybe 100+, there aren't many functions that aren't computer controlled these days.

 

The twin turbo Audi had almost that many, and it was built in 1999. the computers "talk" to each other over the CAN Bus. One computer for each front seat (memory seats), one for the back up warning system, even one for the radio antenna.

I still have the interface to connect a laptop to the system.

 

Ant time the ECU does not detect main power it resets to factory, all ready monitors (emissions) return to "NOT READY"

The vehicle must run through specific run cycles in order for the ECU to set the monitors (learn process).

Suggest you run it for a couple of days, stop and go, highway, coast from speed, hot/cold cycles..

Any OBD scanner can detect the ready monitors...

... Philip

 

After 3 days and about 60 miles of driving (streets, freeway, hot, cold, up, down) the OBD2 readings haven't changed. Reading Monitors gives - Misfire, Fuel System, Components: continuous, available, complete; Catalyst: not continuous, available, not complete; Heated Catalyst, Evap System, Secondary Air, AC Refrigerant: not continuous, not available, not complete; Oxy Sensor: not continuous, available, not complete; Oxy Sensor Heater, EGR SYstem: not continuous, available, complete.

In the list of Oxygen Sensors it shows Bank 1, Sensors 1 and 2 available. For both it shows $01 - $06 incomplete. And it still shows "not ready for smog testing".

I don't know how to interpret those results, whether they indicate sensor problems or problems in the ECU. (Still no fault codes).

Do you see any reason not to put the old ECU with the bad IAC circuit back in (with the IAC disconnected) to see if it will read differently?

 

The ECU will not complete the ready monitors if you have any hard/pending fault codes...

Do you have a miss fire?

Do you have a Live Data Scanner, if so what are the fuel trims, and does the O2 switch rapidly with no bias?

What OBD scanner/tester are you using??

... Philip

 

I have the OBDWiz (on my laptop). I'm just trying to learn how to use it. There are no faults or pending faults showing. I don't believe it is misfiring although the idle does roughen up a bit with the A/C on even though the idle speed is OK. The Misfire Monitor test shows complete.

I know I can record live data so I'll go back and try to find the fuel trims and O2 data. Thanks. Malcolm

 

If you don't have an FSM for the 1.8 then I would suggest checking the 1996 1.6 FSM, available on Acksfaq. The FSM details the conditions required for the tests to be completed.

 

I have the '96 1.8 FMS with the '97 update but don't remember seeing that information. I'll take another look.

Malcolm

 

Defiantly an issue with the O2 sensor circuit..

For the upstream(B1S1 and B2S1), the graphs should have a fairly rapid fluctuation (switch) from .2 to .8vdc, and fuel trim at idle and 2000rpm should be close to "0",+/-2, when hot and running properly...

If you have one with non action, it is either dead, or the wiring is faulty, This however should set a MIL code..

The alternative is that the ECU is sick....

... Philip

 

OK. I'm going to put the ECU with the bad IAC driver back in and see if I get the same responses.

Thanks. Malcolm

 

Neither ECU sees any action on the down stream O2 sensor. Don't know why it doesn't set a code but I'm going to replace it and check the wiring once I get it disconnected. That could be he cause of my low (16 - 17mpg) mileage.

Will report back. Malcolm

 

You will need to verify the harness between the ECU and the O2 sensors..

Is this a 6 cyl or inline 4

If v6 you should see both B1S1+ B2S1, before CAT

.... Philip

 

4-cylinder inline.

 

If this was my vehicle I would connect a lab scope to the O2 harness (a DVOM may not be fast enough), start the engine and activate the sensor (warm them up to operational temp), open a vacuum line and the reading must go down (lean), inject propane and the reading must go up (rich). Perform on both S1 sensors...
If the sensors are confirmed as working, connect to the ECM end of the circuit, you should get the same readings, if not investigate harness for opens/shorts..

Remember you will be working in low voltages .1 to.9vdc generated by O2 sensor..

Point of warming, if you have applied raw battery to the sensor, you may have inadvertently killed it... same goes for some silicone sealers (O2 killers)..

The heater side of the O2 sensor is a timed application of 12vdc, via a relay.. the ground side is triggered..Keep both side separate when testing...

.... Philip

 

Thought about your issue last night, I think you need to start fresh, first remove the O2 and bench test it to ensure it is working

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6iXNBPPhwc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKsS6AELPuM

... Philip

 

Sorry to be off so long. Had some medical issues to take care of.

I put a new downstream O2 sensor in and everything is the same. Upstream reads 0 - 5 volts with a short term average of .1. Downstream reads constant .3 volts. Most monitor tests will not complete.

I saw your videos and I think I need to see if the heater voltage is there. Then I'll do your test on the downstream I took out. Malcolm

 

Scroll down to page 7 here:
Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo

 

Thanks. Knowing what to look for, I found it in my Sport manual. I did the called-for driving sequence and got a P060 code for the first time. Looking that up for OBDII in general it is a memory check sum error in the ECU. Which could be caused by a lot of things including a poor ground. At the time, I had the ECU unbolted from its bracket. If that's what it relies on for ground, I shouldn't get the code after I bolted it back up.

I checked the heater supply to the new downstream O2 sensor by plugging the old one in then idling the engine. The sensor eventually got hot. I re-checked the TPS and the voltages were in spec. The MAF sensor is new as are both O2 sensors. Yet I still can't get it to "complete" the monitor tests and ready it for smog. I would suspect the used ECU but it gives the same results as the old one except that it has a good IAC driver.

I've been working on this for over 3 months and I have yet to come up with a diagnostic plan that leads to the source of the problem. I could put a brand new ECU in it but that's a lot to risk. Malcolm

 

Memory Checksum error could be caused by a poor ground but what it means is that the self test on the processor has detected an error in the programme or mapping, I would expect that to put it into limp mode. It would seem to indicate a dead ECU. Is it repeatable? if you clear the codes and key on again do you get the same code?
The ECU case is only used as a ground for noise suppression and ESD protection, there are several grounds from the ECUs internal circuitry that should be checked.

 

You need to confirm the fault code, P0601 is memory checksum error.

 

Sorry, typo. P0601 is correct. Freeze frame 0x03 shows "Fuel system status: Open loop due to insufficient engine temperature." (?) Gage and scanner read OK.

I'm about to clear the code and go through the drive cycle again.

 

After thought:

I have know a lazy thermostat, and air bubbles in thermo housing to trigger that code...

.... Philip

 

If all is working per spec, the downstream O2 (after CAT), should be hovering around .05vdc. It may vary dependent on the condition of the CAT and the condition of the gasses moving past the upstream O2.

The key is, it should not switch or follow the B1S1

... Philip

 

The downstream never fluctuates from 0.3 v - straight flat line. The '97 1.8L FSM in the diagnostic section says that the recorded data should be .35v or lower so that's good. For the upstream, it says the minimum should be 2.55v or higher. I've never seen it above 0.5 volts. Another diagnostic section says it should be above 0.5v. I need to do some more reading. Upstream was replaced when I got the car a few months shy of 2 years ago. It does fluctuate when the RPM is changed.

If you would have any interest, I could send you copies of that section. Malcolm

 

Much of this is completely beyond me but presumably your upstream o2 sensor needs to be switching between .1 and .9v - it should not remain below .5v.....
Is your '97 1.8 FSM' not just the regular 97 Sidekick FSM with the Sport supplement?? If so, it should list the location of the grounds. The ground locations for the 96 - which should be the same for you - are listed here starting on page 13:
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v2-8A-14_pdf.htm

 

Much of this is completely beyond me but presumably your upstream o2 sensor needs to be switching between .1 and .9v - it should not remain below .5v.....
Is your '97 1.8 FSM' not just the regular 97 Sidekick FSM with the Sport supplement?? If so, it should list the location of the grounds. The ground locations for the 96 - which should be the same for you - are listed here starting on page 13:
Ack's FAQ: Your 4X4 Portal To All Things Suzuki/Geo

Thanks. I have the '96 supplementary Service Manual for the 1800 and the '97 but don't have the '96 Sidekick/X-90 1500 FSM. Malcolm

 

This is what the B1S1 should look like, actively switching

 

That's about what it looks like but I'll take another look at the values. I don't understand why the downstream never moves off .3v. Malcolm

 

Once the exhaust gasses have passed through the cat the gasses should be relatively 'clean' so the O2 sensor will show a fairly steady signal, if it starts oscillating then the cat is not working.
On my Jimny the downstream sensor is biased a little and shows 1.25V cold, dropping to around 0.7V when hot.

 

Hopefully the replacement o2 will sort out your issue. And the forum does get Sport owners occasionally, most of whom have difficulty finding the Sport supplements, so if you have links to them, it would probably be appreciated!!

 

I also have a '97 Sport and find this thread very informational. I travel frequently and am not near my Sport to assist with any data.

Could the cracked exhaust manifold be causing some of the problems? It is a very common problem with 1.8 engine.

 

It's good to know there's another one out there!

I have thought I've heard an exhaust rumble but can't feel anything around the manifold. I've tried propane and will do it again after the O2 sensor is replaced. It looks like at least the manifold gasket has been replaced; It looks new. Some of he bolts were loose when I got it.

 

Look under the heat shield and around the manifold with a bright light.
Listen with a mechanic's stethoscope.
Or the best is a smoke machine. Here is instructions for Aqua's homemade one - although he may have improved on it (again).
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...om/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/36974-should-i-buy-sidekick-4.html

 

Look under the heat shield and around the manifold with a bright light.
Listen with a mechanic's stethoscope.
Or the best is a smoke machine. Here is instructions for Aqua's homemade one - although he may have improved on it (again).
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...om/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/36974-should-i-buy-sidekick-4.html

As a matter of fact, yes! I now have a new and improved model... Last one was loaned out and it grew legs (evolution theory).

Spray paint jar (metal),
110vac, pencil soldering,
Input: M style male connector and,
output: 1/4" air connectors + hose.

... Philip

 

That sounds correct 0x just means that its in hexadecimal format (base16).

 

OK. 0x00 (zero) lists supported as 01, 03 - 07, 0C -0F, 10, 11, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15, 1C.
Monitored are: 0D, 10, 07, 0C, 06, 14, 15, 05. The double 14's and 15's refer to different PID's

0X01 (one) lists number of trouble codes, MIL indicator status and Available on Board Tests.

I can give you the titles of each PID.

0x14 (20) Lists sensor voltages. Malcolm

 

I think we're in business! After installing the new upstream O2 sensor (old one was not 2 years old and I did not suspect it until I got the help I needed interpreting the scanner from the forum.)

I filled the tank and drove it 50 miles on the freeway at 60 to 75mph. Then I topped off the tank which took exactly 2 gallons which is 25mpg. That's not a very accurate measurement but it has been getting 16 - 17mpg. The tail pipe which has always had some soot is absolutely clean.

Best of all, the scanner shows all monitor tests as complete and ready for smog testing. I'm not going to throw a party until it passes smog on Monday, but all indications are good.

It's a hopeless feeling when you've exhausted your knowledge and can't find a single person in the area who knows any more. But thanks to you experts, I've learned a lot about the 1.8 L and I hope I have opportunities to pass that on and help someone else.

The car has a few other minor issues which I'll eventually get into but, for now, I'll feel comfortable getting it outfitted to be our official "toad" for the motor home.

I would like to put my 1800 FSM Supplements on line and will do so if I ever get the chance to scan them. .... Malcolm

 

Malcolm,

We are right behind you, buddy... Glad you have the final fix....

BTW: my last O2, only lasted 2yrs then flatlined, 0vdc (lifetime warranty), but too much hassle and cost to return..

... Philip