Spend some time with the search function here...it's been talked about a lot.

Here is the jist of prepping an engine for boost the RIGHT way.
First off, you want LOW compression. Otherwise you will have to run premium or higher fuel, and maybe even water injection to keep it from detonating. 10.5:1 is pretty high for boost. You are better off with 9:1 or even 8.5:1
Secondly, you REALLY want to use forged pistons at least. The amount of heat that gets generated in forced induction, even a good Hypereutectic piston is going to be "OK" under very low boost conditions for a while. But in most cases is still a time bomb. I don't know that you would need to have forged rods and forged crank, being you don't sound like you want to run extreme power. But a good set of quality rods at least. Not knowing what your "big" cam is, it could be fine, or it could be garbage for a forced induction application. But the simple science of cams is backwards for forced induction vs naturally aspirated engines. So a huge cam with a lot of lift and duration isn't as efficient.

But .40 over.... **From what I have read about this block**, the cylinder walls are pretty thin on this engine to start with. So going .40 over is pretty drastic for boost. Does this mean you will blow out your piston wall? Maybe not. But it does mean that you will run hotter, as there isn't as much material left to dissipate the heat as quickly. This increases the odds of detonation as well. Also, you want your cylinders machined with the right tolerances for forced induction to compensate for the heat. Which means that it's bored SLIGHTLY larger.

So a great idea? Maybe not. Impossible? Definitely not.
Rebuild engine with dished pistons.
Have rotating assembly bore aligned. (eliminates vibration which kills main bearings.)
Talk to your machine shop about the specs of your cam to determine if it will be beast or burden.
Lastly don't expect to run big boost. 4-6lbs could be safe to start.

You are going to need at least:
fuel pressure regulator
upgraded spark
engine management? - Will the awesome stock ECU have the flexibility for added fuel/air and timing requirements?

It's a start.... Good luck.

 

x2 on 8.5:1, if you have anything over.. say... 9.5:1 you will only get away with running a couple lbs of boost. Forged pistons are a MUST. Other manufacturers have gotten away with higher compression with boost but only with state of the art engine management systems. If I were doing this on a Suzy engine I would probably go with a single DRLA 44 or some similar carb. Dellorto can be a finicky beast but VERY tweakable for stuff like this.

1.6L 8v block for some more cubes, preferable to a bore. Cyl pressure and temps will get quite high and rich/lean conditions are quite possible without EFI. I would do this though. Just for fun. I was very close to using a 1.8 Turbo VW engine with the diesel conversion kit (same block mounting provisions) but failed to find a suitable engine in time so I stuck with the 16v 1.6.

It doesnt cost much to spin balance the rotating assembly complete with the flywheel, I would do that and what graphic said, absolutly forged pistons and decent rings. I wonder if you can CC the heads to loosen up the compression but low compression and increase boost gradually until you reach a safe level.

Using a Turbo on a Sami has always held special interest to me, I may yet do it as I have seen on a forum a guy doing a junkyard turbo with some success using a 16v. I would probably aim for around 5-8 lbs of boost as I'm not looking for a ton of power but just the ability to hold hills and push headwinds better.

Please keep updating if you go this direction. Pics are needed for our viewing pleasure haha.