Details are important - what engine are we discussing? What "things" were changed? Why were they changed?

 

Diesel engine and fuel filter oil filter , glow plugs , brand shaft sensor all changed

 

Camshaft. Sensor and temp sensors also changed

 

Let's get to the "why were they changed" part of the question?

Were the glow plugs checked for function before they were replaced? Glow plugs are essentially an "electrical heater" to help start a cold diesel engine, they don't get hot unless they have electrical power to them, the glow plug wiring and control system should have been verified as functional BEFORE the glow plugs were replaced, but there is no mention of this being done.

 

Is there any smoke from the exhaust as the engine cranks and won't start ?

 

Glow plugs where done as warning light was on for them so thought that was the issue at first but obv wasn't that as never made a difference

 

Glow plugs where done as warning light was on for them so thought that was the issue at first but obv wasn't that as never made a difference

Can I assume that "glow plugs were done" means they were replaced?

My point here is that there seems to be no sort of diagnostics being performed, how long would it have taken to put a voltmeter on the glow plug wiring to confirm that they were getting power when they should, you've replaced the glow plugs and you're say you're still having the problem, and this simple step still seems to have been overlooked.

One more question - are we dealing with a 1.9 liter diesel (Renault F9Q) or a 1.6 liter diesel (Fiat D16AA)?

 

Was any one of the numerous diagnostics a check for power to the glow plugs...

 

Not sure about power to them it was checked and needed changed not sure as my dad has been dealing with it I have no clue about cars just sick of it now and don't know what else to do with it

 

Here's the thing - there's very little we can do from a distance, we're not there, we can't see what is happening - someone has to TELL us, and you're apparently not in a position to do so.

Diesel engines are what are known as compression ignition engines, you compress air, the air gets hot, you spray diesel fuel into the hot compressed air, it ignites and the engine runs - when the engine is cold, the compressed air is not hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel, the glow plugs are used to help heat the air so the diesel fuel will ignite.

Based on what you have told us, that the engine gives trouble to start when cold but starts OK when warm suggests that the glow plugs are not working - knowing whether or not those glow plugs are being activated when they should be is the first step into solving the problem. The glow plugs might be good, they might be new, but if they are not being switched on when they should, or if the power is not reaching to the plugs, then you are still at square one, the plugs don't get hot, the engine will give trouble to start.

Whoever is working on the vehicle needs to confirm that the plugs are getting power when they should.

 

No the problem is it starts when it is cold no problem it's once the car has been run it won't start untill it's been left for about 2 hours to cool down then it will start

 

I would take it to a diesel specialist who can diagnose the problem from experience and knowledge and not diagnostics.
It sounds like someone is just changing parts hoping to eventually stumble on the solution.

 

I would take it to a diesel specialist who can diagnose the problem from experience and knowledge and not diagnostics.
It sounds like someone is just changing parts hoping to eventually stumble on the solution.

They haven't even tried diagnosis. Knowledge and experience is part of the diagnostic process. I certainly don't agree with your statement, you are recommending exactly what's been happening, change parts with no diagnosis based on a " specialist " and what he thinks is wrong.

 

the poster does state 'numerous diagnostics.'

 

Absolutely agree no point just throwing parts at it, (numerous diagnostics) so did it show any fault codes?

I assume the brand shaft sensor is a typo and should read crank shaft sensor, that would have been my first guess this is classic crank sensor behaviour breaking down when hot and working after cooling until it eventually quits completely.

I would agree a diesel specialist is probably the way to go he will use the correct code reader and will be able to interpret the codes correctly, which will Probably save you money in the long run.

The problem with code readers especially cheap ones and inexperienced users is the codes may point to a particular part being faulty but it can be something further down the line causing the problem, this is where experience plays a huge part in correct diagnoses.

 

I had the same problem on a brand new Landrover Freelander (2002 with BMW engine). It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor so you could chuck a few quid/dollars that way if you’re feeling flush.