Hello to everybody!
My compliments for this wonderfull forum website!
My brother has a Suzuki Vitara JLX TBI -1991 - 1.6L -8V manual and 4WD (European - Germany), which has its ECU got crazy and as I am an
electronics-addicted, I am trying to get it repaired (If I will manage).
The car ECU is the same used for the Geo Tracker G1 - with part number
JE331B604A.
Background:
The car on one day did not start anymore, and on switching ON ignition
after the initial CEL, the main relays started to get crazy with continuous
clicking. The ECU had already been fixed some years before (with not very elegant soldering in my opinion), from a "I know everything" type of mechanic,
replacing the C111 cap and basically cracking the 1206 SMD bypass ceramic cap C48.
As I read the fantastic David Ruberg ECU repairs page, I have learned that the weak points of this board are all the poor Rubycon caps. I have indeed
replace C103, C101 and C111 and replaced the C48 with a ceramic 1206 SMD 1000pF one (as I did not have bigger value size). Unfortunately I did not find in my local store the C105 Tantalum polarized cap. However, waiting from the C105 new cap purchased online, I have decide to try on the car the ECU fixed up this point.
QUESTION:
On first trial the board did not wake up at all! All the via-holes
of the replaced caps are jumped to be sure to not miss main reference 5V on the board. However, pin A23, and on the diode D107 cathode (btw the diode is not shorted) I do NOT have the 5V reference voltage.
1) If the board is a 3-layer one, could it be that I am missing some connection inside a acid damaged via-hole with some dipped layer?
2)I doubt it, but could it be that a wrong value of C48 could cause some shorting? As I do not have a cap meter, do you know its value?
3) To understand better the 5V trouble, where is generates the 5V reference?
4) Any other idea to know where to check for stupid errors?
Thanks a lot to everybody
Cheers
Eon
My compliments for this wonderfull forum website!
My brother has a Suzuki Vitara JLX TBI -1991 - 1.6L -8V manual and 4WD (European - Germany), which has its ECU got crazy and as I am an
electronics-addicted, I am trying to get it repaired (If I will manage).
The car ECU is the same used for the Geo Tracker G1 - with part number
JE331B604A.
Background:
The car on one day did not start anymore, and on switching ON ignition
after the initial CEL, the main relays started to get crazy with continuous
clicking. The ECU had already been fixed some years before (with not very elegant soldering in my opinion), from a "I know everything" type of mechanic,
replacing the C111 cap and basically cracking the 1206 SMD bypass ceramic cap C48.
As I read the fantastic David Ruberg ECU repairs page, I have learned that the weak points of this board are all the poor Rubycon caps. I have indeed
replace C103, C101 and C111 and replaced the C48 with a ceramic 1206 SMD 1000pF one (as I did not have bigger value size). Unfortunately I did not find in my local store the C105 Tantalum polarized cap. However, waiting from the C105 new cap purchased online, I have decide to try on the car the ECU fixed up this point.
QUESTION:
On first trial the board did not wake up at all! All the via-holes
of the replaced caps are jumped to be sure to not miss main reference 5V on the board. However, pin A23, and on the diode D107 cathode (btw the diode is not shorted) I do NOT have the 5V reference voltage.
1) If the board is a 3-layer one, could it be that I am missing some connection inside a acid damaged via-hole with some dipped layer?
2)I doubt it, but could it be that a wrong value of C48 could cause some shorting? As I do not have a cap meter, do you know its value?
3) To understand better the 5V trouble, where is generates the 5V reference?
4) Any other idea to know where to check for stupid errors?
Thanks a lot to everybody
Cheers
Eon
