i sorry, eon , your the one with the missing eCU tag.
yes.
rhino says what you need.
i forgot all 11 chapter here ....
but id did remember your IC11 and have one removed now.
hard to do with no access to old job shop.
no big deal , just TLC and its out.
its yours for free if you need it.
Rhinos responses are better and you are NOT in usa so i cant help . much.
this one is good example.
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...o-vitara-geo-tracker/41765-suzuki-vitara-1992-ecu-help-needed-3.html#post250218

and post 38 ,is very good too.

i might add on the first page of every ecu Diagnostic page , it says and i will paraphrase.

DO NOT install new ecu until all actuator (relays/solenoids) etc have been checked for faulty resistance.

shorted coils or wires to 12v will blow the ECU (my statement)

 

using your own photo
AND CONNECT #
i get
E2T41371M ECU.
AND THIS
engine control unit Vitara 33920-56B70 E2T41371 - Suzuki - engine control unit

56b70
MELCO pn/s i do not know or understand but does get hits. Ah, Mitsubishi Electric Company, ahhhhhhh yes.cute

381 hits WW.


http://www.electronique-auto.com/sh.../shop/renovation-calculateur-suzuki-vitara-mitsubishi-33920-56b70-e2t41371.html

 

Hello Kick and Rhino,
what do you say regarding the following ECU part numbers:

33920-60A70

33920-56B60

Any chance these boars could work? Both are made for a 8V engines.

Kick,
so, if I undestood correctly, you could be so kind to ship me the IC11 for free
and I shal cover only postage cost? If correct, tell me when do you need address and how can I pay back shipment price.

Thanks alot.
Cheers
Eon

 

id dont now !, in your countries , EU, they have many many motor configuration types
1,2,3,4,5.
some are carbs , scratch those ,but....
but some have totally different distributors.

i dont know why you keep showing that 60A that is a NO SPARK ECU , it's useless.

56B70 is what you have, only that is known to work

there are many many 56B ECUs and some are simply A/T M/T issue and others
are very much different. (disty, smog parts, etc)
i do not have a matrix showing all the 56B features sets.
boy, only MELCO knows that. (this data is not published)

I can not in good faith recommend any ecu, that is not for your car.
because if it dont work, im the bad guy.

i showed you 2 sources in Germany.

use google and ebay in your region
and search by your pn.
only.

 

Ok Kick,
I was asking that as the few left these days with the correct part.n on ebay have simply a crazy price.....

The one in Germany, I lost against a better offer than mine.......

Back trying.....

Cheers
Eon

 

it is not easy to find ecus that work and are off the shelf cheap.
its like gold, "its where you find it." !

the real question is how do you keep your "guy" from blowing up more ECU.
thats the $64000.00 question. (old TV show joke)

 

Suzuki Vitara JLX 8V - 33920-56B70 ECU problems

Hello Kick,
I had swapped IC11 on the 56B70, so I tried the car with my board again.

Results are:

1) CEL Light ON. Only code 12 present.

2) Main and (finally) FP relays switch on. This means that for 3 seconds
the FP starts and after it stops. We have a nice compression as we checked the fuel pipe umplugged from the engine.

3) The car does NOT start.

Conclusion:

A) It shall be the injector as the spark plugs works as we tested them. They produces sparks when it is unplugged one of them and touch engine GND.

B) If I do not have a scope to check the driving square waveform, how to check that to be sure 100% that the problem is there?

C) Could it be that the problem is not produced by the ECU itself but something bad happend to the injector? In this second case, how do I check that?

Thanks alot for the help!

Cheers and Merry Xmas!
Eon

 

Ah, regrettably Eon, Kick-fix has taken a sabbatical from the forum, so that he is not posting at the moment to answer your question.
You can check to see if your injectors are getting pulses by using a noid lamp, disconnect injector, hook noid lamp up to connector, and noid should flash with the pulse from the ECU.
testing injection

the answer is on the page,
http://www.kick-fix.com/INJECTORS/dead-injectors.html

 

I read this thread with interest this morning as my '91 8valve tracker also has ecu issues. I haven't dived into the box just yet - Xmas honey-doos, and the like - but plan to in the next couple days.

A couple things though, (1) if noid lamps aren't handy, you should be able to hear the injector clicking using a stethescope; (2) When Kick-fix asked about a compression check, he was referring to cylinder compression, not fuel pump pressure (although that is also important); (3) I have been moping around for 5 years without an oscilloscope after my old one took a salt-water bath. But, after seeing a note from Kick-fix, I bought a DSOnano pocket sized scope. I have only had it for about a week, but looks to be handy for auto-type measurements - like fuel injector signals. At about $55US it was within my budget.

 

I bought a DSOnano pocket sized scope. I have only had it for about a week, but looks to be handy for auto-type measurements - like fuel injector signals. At about $55US it was within my budget.

I bought one of those when they first came out. Its not a bad tool but it doesn't really have the protection required for automotive use.

 

Rhinoman: Does that mean you killed it? If so, how did it die?

Agreed that DSONano's bear little resemblance to a typical Tektronix unit (like the one I killed), but it is way better than nothing - for me anyway.

 

I haven't used mine on the car, I use a hand-held Textronix or a diagnostic tool, they have more protection against the sort of spikes and surges that you get on a car. The schematic for the scope is available on-line somewhere, you might be able to add some addtional protection to it. The DSONano is really just a reprogrammed MP3 player, hence the headphone socket for the probe. Its a really neat idea and a very useful tool but its really designed for workshop use. I bought it to evaluate with the idea of having the manufacturer make a special run of them for another application but it lacks the ruggedness needed for industrial use.

 

Suzuki Vitara MT 1.6L 8V

Hello Guys!
It has been a while since my last update about my Suzuki Vitara MT 1.6L 8V (CAMI Automotive Inc. -body tag FAE625M22) troubles and test performed.

Hovever, since the last period during I was running tests on the car (FP pressure, sparks plug working, CEL light, IC11 replacement on the ECU, and so on), the repair shop guy, continued to point that it was only the ECU problem. I guess instead that is something else, maybe the injector or whatever they might had damaged soon or later carrying on trying without knowing....

Since, I was tired of listening that, I purchased an ECU 56B40 for AT (the only available at that time on web instead that the 56B70 for MT).

The board which arrived finally today, I simply tried it on the car. The car has correct CEL light and Main and FP relays switching correctly. To me from the electronic point of view seems everything healty.

However, the car does not start again. Now, before start a war
against the repair shop people, do you know if it exist any chances that a 56B40 will NOT work on this car which is a MT?

Please, I need a clear answer, as if the ECU shall work, I will simply find another Vitara (which is not easy here), and even struggling, but I will demonstrate that is not an ECU problem, and that either they will fix the rest of the car finally, or simply they must tell me that they do not know how to fix it.

Thanks alot!
Cheers
Eon

 

please ,lets start fresh, m22 is German market car and ecu.

Hello Guys!
It has been a while since my last update about my Suzuki Vitara MT 1.6L 8V (CAMI Automotive Inc. -body tag FAE625M22) troubles and test performed.

and you forgot to say the ECU sticker was missing , water damage on the original. right?

Hovever, since the last period during I was running tests on the car (FP pressure, sparks plug working, CEL light, IC11 replacement on the ECU, and so on), the repair shop guy, continued to point that it was only the ECU problem. I guess instead that is something else, maybe the injector or whatever they might had damaged soon or later carrying on trying without knowing....

Since, I was tired of listening that, I purchased an ECU 56B40 for AT (the only available at that time on web instead that the 56B70 for MT).

The board which arrived finally today, I simply tried it on the car. The car has correct CEL light and Main and FP relays switching correctly. To me from the electronic point of view seems everything healthy. GOOD

However, the car does not start again. Now, before start a war
against the repair shop people, do you know if it exist any chances that a 56B40 will NOT work on this car which is a MT?
The only difference for MT car with AT car, is the
clutch , start ,park lockout pins. if there is another failure , the problem
shows up as ECU thinks you are parked when driving and AFR is wrong. i have driven with a A/T ecu in my M/T car for 1 year, not one problem 91 56B40



Please, I need a clear answer, as if the ECU shall work, I will simply find another Vitara (which is not easy here), and even struggling, but I will demonstrate that is not an ECU problem, and that either they will fix the rest of the car finally, or simply they must tell me that they do not know how to fix it.

Thanks alot!
Cheers
Eon

i can say this.
are you fixing this car or
are you asking us to help you , help your mechanic?
are you hands on?

can i say , stop , forget all past information and start fresh and anew.
?????
ok , lets work the CURRENT problem , after all it is new.
the car dont start and main and FP-relays both are closd, that is a NEW problem.

ive seen kicks with 10 major problems all at once (9 ignored until 10th killed car) ( a disease here)
so keep an open mind.

my no start for dummies page (mimic'ing the book series as a joke , not dissing... not at all.....)
is here.

you should bookmark pages. you should. and google site search can in fact find anything on this forum w/no probs. (i think)

nostartfordummies

ANEW:

• power elect?
• fuses?
• fuel? if not fuel try test fuel
• spark ?
• compression.? how much, is there WOT.
• with strobe check #1 timing cranking. is it correct at 5-degrees BTDC?

the other issues , used ECU are really just unknown, and please do not remove the warranty stickers

 

The 56B80 (AT) will work instead of a 56B70(MT). Kick-fix has stated that the 56B40 will work instead of a 56B30 and I'm sure that others have tried this too. Have you checked the PCB on the replacement ECU for signs of damage?

 

I vaguely remember a possible problem with the AT ECU working on the MT - something about getting the AT ECU to think that it is not in park. Autotune (Kickfix) told me about this, but as I haven't had to deal with this (yet) I don't quite remember the work around. I will look for the answer he gave me - in the meantime someone else may come on with the exact info.

 

From what I remember, the AT ECU will start the MT car. It's just that the vehicle speed sensor from the AT ECU may not know if the car is moving or not and might eventually throw a code. Other than that, it should work.

 

Its a while since I looked at one of these in detail but I don't think there is a speed sensor for the A/T on a 56B40/80.

 

I remember that there was some kind of issue. I got a 56B40 (AT) as a replacement for my original 56B30 (MT). So far the replacement hasn't been used, but autotune advised of some kind of remote possible issue where it might not work, but whatever that issue was, it could be remedied. I can't find the email that advises what the issue is. Generally, as far as I know the AT should run the MT.

 

Hi guys!

I am sure that some pictures of the 56B40 shall clear all doubts.

However, I have purchased the ECU by a professional electronic part repair company, and I have the warranty seals on that. I am sure the ECU is perfect as they give me 1 year warranty so far.

However, the warranty is valid at the condition that I ship back them my dead ECU, as repairing that is their business. If I will not bother to do that, I will simply remove the seals and finally produce pictures for you.

It might be that as I am using the forum with free subscription membership, I do not manage to see anymore the old threads added by kick regarding the compatibility issue. However, I remember that he mentioned that the 56B40 would work only with a particular CAS sensor in the distributor, but I do not
remember the detail of that.

However, I have a feeling that the ECU is not the problem as the car at least
shall start. I have suspects that something is wrong in the injector as it could be that doing totally wrong electrical test by too many improvised people, its coil could be dead.

The hard thing is that here this old Vitara model is very rear.....

Anyway, if you will get better informations, I will be happy to get some more help.


Thanks alot!

Cheers
Eon

 

my link above has a top purpose for 1 line and 1 page.
it is very cryptic, but is only and adjunth to my long pages. here.

if you save the book mark to my sever , you might find it much easier
or read post STICKy 1.

Common-problems

 

i can say with out reservation that your mechanic
if he cant follow the 6 bullets above, he needs fast ASE course. pronto.

id fire him, i would but sorry of its a long old friend that works dirt cheap.
but that is my 2 cents.

quip;
'If a man will begin with certainties, he shall end in doubts. But if he will be content to begin with doubts he shall end in certainties.' -Francis Bacon

best is to start at square 1, all of the car is bad, prove otherwise.
never fails.

or

'If the facts don't fit your theory, change the facts.' -Einstein

 

Hello Autotune,
and thank you for your inputs.

I will have provide more details to your questions to refresh my case and some more questions of mine to understand what is going on with this car:

The only difference for MT car with AT car, is the
clutch , start ,park lockout pins. if there is another failure , the problem
shows up as ECU thinks you are parked when driving and AFR is wrong. i have driven with a A/T ecu in my M/T car for 1 year, not one problem 91 56B40

Could you please either explain or point to a link where this is well described how this AFR signal is wrong? In which case? What I shall do to let to be correct?

i can say this.
are you fixing this car or
are you asking us to help you , help your mechanic?
are you hands on?

1) This car is owned by my brother, which after his car didn't want to start anymore (as suddenly one day MAIN and FP relays where switching crazy continuosly) he dediced to call the repair shop guy which took this car and brought it in his shop starting doing "who knows which test" (I assume also short-connecting the FP and other stupid things - Anyway I cannot demonstrate that so far).

2) This is was the time when I arrived to help as the repari shop guy stated that it was the ECU, and I use to work in the elctronic field in the past. So, I replaced the bad caps, and I fixed a blown trace on the B-connector
and replaced the IC11 as kindly suggested by Kick.

3) As we were tired to lissen the repair shop repeating that it was a bad ECU, I purchased a 56B40 as ensured by Rhynoman e Kick that the board could work mainly well on the car. At least it shall be possible to let the car engine start! But this for some reason never happened.

Here it is what I manage to collect together with the repair shop guy during many times checking the car (mainly myself):

ANEW:
* power elect?

Yes. Power is nicely present.

* fuses?

All of them checked many times. We do have CEL ON and with key ON a DTC code = 12 readable.

* fuel? if not fuel try test fuel

The fuel is present. However how can I test that?

* spark ?

Sparks present checked with all the 4 spark plugs.

* compression.? how much, is there WOT.

Not tested yet. We do have FP pressure at least. I will see if the repair shop guy has meadured the WOT.

* with strobe check #1 timing cranking. is it correct at 5-degrees BTDC?

Not tested yet. I am not even sure if the repair shop knows this test procedure....I will see.


ADDITIONAL QUESTION:

A) The repair shop guy, points that is the injector that does not receive
any signal. He said is 100% sure about that. I don't have a NOID lamp, neither a stethoscope or even a scope to check the injector. I will see how to arrange that later. But let's assume that it is true that the ECU does not send signal to the injector, which one could be the cause? Again the AFR?


Of course the repair shop guy is friend of my brother, and before to start
in pointing to his uncompetence, I need to bring some facts there in the shop to demonstrate that the ECU is alive and working.

Thanks alot for your patience and understanding.

Cheers
Eon

 

square 1: 92, 8v
new ecu.
unknow motor.?
is compression on each cylinder at 150 PSI all 4 cylinders. yes or no, using near or at WOT. wide open throttle , Fuel system kiiled by std methods. i unplug the Distributor at least. (the low voltage side.
lets say yes.
the put it back
then i aim my strobe light at the crank pulley and mark while person 2 cranks
is spark landing (using spark wire 1, front) near 0degr or evern 5 degr. before TDC (left side of scale) yes, or no.

yes,
seems motor is timed. (or cam belt slipped and some mech moved the distributor to
match the lies of the cam bad and bad to the bone if true)
no cam and distributor are at spec.
done.
we now have a engine the pumps air and is timed. we now work the EFI systems.
trying to cheat the tests. will be costly in labor.
we know spark is proper at spark plug 1.
we know the spark were are layed down as my timing page shows, not Haynes BS way.
this means the sparks happens on all 4 cyl at the correct time.
if the wire are laid down wrong, you will get nowhere.

EFI
next we then try test fuel
i cant tell you what fuel to use, its your choice.
gasoline.
Instant-start-in a can
or
propane.
but it is time to check this,
add fuel to the induction by any means, not too much just 2 second blast to the
EVAP nipple (pulled)
then it will start. for sure. go verrroommmm and stop
no injection system needed,
i can do that with the injector (TBI ) on the bench. or the fuel pump , moved to the curb.

at this point you find my no start page.

nostartfordummies
ive taken you step 8

beyond that you need to check fuel pressure and each injector and the
ecu DRIVE of each injector with a noid lamp. ( a pro tech, has scope so he finds all possible fail modes with no delays)

at this point the problem is obvious. IM SURE.

 

alternate answer above is you doing it.
now i listen to your mech, and pretend im talking to him. and i believe him ?(LOL)

that is the injector that does not receive
any signal.

ok only these possibles.
1: ecu is bad.
2: spark feed back to ECU is gone , due to ,no spark, or supressor module bad or missing.
3: ECU is thowing 41s and or 42 , cranking, ive posted this 100s of times.... and is clearly show shown on my no start , or better no spark pages.
4: the ECU is seeing WOT from the TPS full time. the TPS is BAD.
5: power to ecu lost , not if spark is good and CEL glows at key on.

that be 5 ways. i bet you have power, but spark i dont know.

i want to know if spark is present at each cylinder.
i want to know if spark is flashing at 1,3,4,2 as the crank spins.

you do know it fires every 180Degress right and a pro mech, can point his gun
at each point and say, #3 is fire at 180 6pm . , # 4 is firiing at 12PM.
number 2 is firing at 6pm. then back to number,1
you can walk the strobe pickup wire from 1 spark wire to the next and see the stobe
jump 180 degrees. or just use my timing map at TDC.

 

i can see you cant see all the help from my kickfix posts. and i dont remember how much i gave , so these 2 may recap them.
id did not kill my posts. the admins dont know. it was a hiccup.

the ecu will inject only when all inputs are correct.
spark, CMP, Spark feedback. , not WOT at TPS, and full power to ecu.
that is a fact.

also as long as CMP pulses, regurally , even if spark is timing completely wrong, the ECU will inject.
I think also it will not cut fuel until it see spark die after it starts, but that is fast acting.
some ecu will inject with spark feed back gone but when you release the key, injectors are cut.
that is the fail safe feature. and works diff. on different years. 89s are the oddest.

 

Do NOT let the mechanic hot wire the injector for ANY reason. A big NO-NO.
Aside from auto (kick's) tests you may want to put the diagnostic jumper into the connector and crank the engine. See if you get code 41 or 42.

 

Dear all!
Back since a while.....and I can confirm that my suzuki Vitara 1.6L 1992 MT - 8V, is now uprunning.....the problem has been lying always and simply in the ECU......I think I had in trial 3 different ECU....none of them were guaranteed and correctly working.......simply were dead even if replaced bad caps.....

In the end the purchased 33920-56B40, was not working as for some reason the main GND was interrupted by the repair shop guy without telling us......

Anyway, the cas is now well running since 2 weeks without any problem.

Thank you all for the assistance!
Cheers
Eon