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Suzuki Vitara 1992- ECU help needed!

54K views 143 replies 7 participants last post by  Bex  
#1 ·
Hello to everybody!
My compliments for this wonderfull forum website!

My brother has a Suzuki Vitara JLX TBI -1991 - 1.6L -8V manual and 4WD (European - Germany), which has its ECU got crazy and as I am an
electronics-addicted, I am trying to get it repaired (If I will manage).
The car ECU is the same used for the Geo Tracker G1 - with part number
JE331B604A.

Background:
The car on one day did not start anymore, and on switching ON ignition
after the initial CEL, the main relays started to get crazy with continuous
clicking. The ECU had already been fixed some years before (with not very elegant soldering in my opinion), from a "I know everything" type of mechanic,
replacing the C111 cap and basically cracking the 1206 SMD bypass ceramic cap C48.

As I read the fantastic David Ruberg ECU repairs page, I have learned that the weak points of this board are all the poor Rubycon caps. I have indeed
replace C103, C101 and C111 and replaced the C48 with a ceramic 1206 SMD 1000pF one (as I did not have bigger value size). Unfortunately I did not find in my local store the C105 Tantalum polarized cap. However, waiting from the C105 new cap purchased online, I have decide to try on the car the ECU fixed up this point.

QUESTION:
On first trial the board did not wake up at all! All the via-holes
of the replaced caps are jumped to be sure to not miss main reference 5V on the board. However, pin A23, and on the diode D107 cathode (btw the diode is not shorted) I do NOT have the 5V reference voltage.

1) If the board is a 3-layer one, could it be that I am missing some connection inside a acid damaged via-hole with some dipped layer?

2)I doubt it, but could it be that a wrong value of C48 could cause some shorting? As I do not have a cap meter, do you know its value?

3) To understand better the 5V trouble, where is generates the 5V reference?

4) Any other idea to know where to check for stupid errors?

Thanks a lot to everybody :D

Cheers
Eon
 
#90 ·
ok im ready,
your mech BLEW out the d102 trace, so im guessing he blew the FP relay transistor trace ?
or the transistor itself.? ( we will prove that)
measure the pink wire on the FPrelay
it will be 12vdc , goes to zero volts fast, then back to 12v in 3 seconds ever key on.

make sure the coil is not open. 10-40ohms.

we know the FP relay has power, MAIN is hot and CEL is hot so pump must spin.
if relay dont pull in then ECU is bad.
if relay pulls in then relay is bad or pump is bad.

we can find it with the voltmeter. checks.
if the relay does pull in, CLACK>
then see if pink black goes hot.?
if clack sound and pink dont go hot , the relay is no good.

if he blew up the transisitor , it is (many in one package)
IC11 M5262L

i have a spare and these are very hard to find. (i have canniblized board)
its a Christmas tree, i pluck parts and give away.

check the Pink wire next.
Image
 
#91 ·
to each his own.
you can hot wire the fuel pump relay but that takes super car.

if the pump spins up with blue-black and pink-black jumped then pump is spinning ok
but if you slip kiss off ECU.
it dont take a big slip.

as any DR worth salt knows, first do no harm.

one more safer test
swap the 2 relays.
if main goes dead, relay in MAIN is bad. the first indication is CEL is dead.

those are the tricks and ways.
do as you feel safe doing.
 
#93 ·
Hello Kick,
thank you for you patient support of my case.....

However, maybe in my previous posts, I didn't explain that:

1) Both relays are good, as I have swapped them, and each time
I switch key ON, the relay plugged in the MAIN "position", clicks correctly.
This is clearly understandable by holding that in the hand during key-switching. However, the relay plugged in the FP "position" does NOT
click at all. I believe it is a manner of drive signal from the ECU.

2) I am almost sure the repair shop guy (which is a young guy unfortunately with not so long experience as the old one does not get dirty hands longer), he hot wired the FP before my first help. So if we have more transitors blown I need your help to know what to check on the ECU, and if we can find replacements.

3) I doubt that suddenly the FP got damaged.

Maybe, even it is a bitter taste choice, it is time to finally give up, and buy a spare ECU?

What do you think?

Thanks alot.
Cheers
Eon
 
#94 ·
i concure. but i got confused as to when fp was checked before you fixed
D104 or after ?
ok if sure the coil on FP relay is good and that FPrelay still works in MAIN slot.
then ECU is still bad.

im sure you can pull it blind folded now ,right?
maybe even tad drunk , LOL

we can trace that trace (pray trace) B16 pin
i have naked board.
and the trace begins hidden under Conn B, Green
and touches C111pin8 then passes straight to IC11-pin 7
i will check more careful later.
make sure no burned trace by using OHM meter for continuity between those pins.

i have spare IC
in fact 3 of them, if need be. and are free,save postage.
 
#95 ·
Hello Kick,
of course I checked the FP relay AFTER I fixed the diode D102 trace.

I think it is time to search for a spare ECU, and maybe try later on, to fix
the current one, as it looks so new that it is a pitty to throw it away.


Spare ECU: ( 56b30 is the most common , used on most 91-95 8v 5speed cars here, hugely common and many TRACKERS here.)

I have found on web: these boards

1) 33920 - 60A70 = (I am checking the history of that, coming from where, if it was repaired and if it works - waiting for seller answer). [

2) 33920 - 56B40 = Did you told me in the past that this does NOT work on my car right? (not true, the 40 means A/T and will run ok on MT but B30 no good for A/T)
B30 MT
B40 AT

I did not find any 33920 - 56B30 so far. All present on web 10 days ago ar gone! Incredible....

Questions:

Do you definitely recommend board 1) right? I don't feel so safe as the seller does not give any guarantee between private. I dont want to buy something which will not work in the end.

Any other part number you could suggest for the seek?

Thanks lot.

Cheers
Eon
 
#96 ·
Hello Kick,
of course I checked the FP relay AFTER I fixed the diode D102 trace.

I think it is time to search for a spare ECU, and maybe try later on, to fix
the current one, as it looks so new that it is a pitty to throw it away.

it's an easy fix. (just make sure that the FP relay fails cranking, if it does (acid test) then that path on that pin is burned. a jumper may fix it.

Spare ECU: ( 56b30 is the most common , used on most 91-95 8v 5speed cars here, hugely common and many TRACKERS here.)

I have found on web: these boards

1) 33920 - 60A70 = (I am checking the history of that, coming from where, if it was repaired and if it works - waiting for seller answer). NO GOOD, no spark ECU !!!!

2) 33920 - 56B40 = Did you told me in the past that this does NOT work on my car right? (not true, the 40 means A/T and will run ok on MT but B30 no good for A/T)
B30 MT
B40 AT

I did not find any 33920 - 56B30 so far. All present on web 10 days ago ar gone! Incredible.... fleabay is full of them , huge supply and are sold refurb here now in
most auto stores. (newly)

Questions:

Do you definitely recommend board 1) right? I don't feel so safe as the seller does not give any guarantee between private. I dont want to buy something which will not work in the end. Demand NO DOA buys. unless dirt cheap. $50 = dirt.

Any other part number you could suggest for the seek?

Thanks lot.

Cheers
Eon

why not fix it, if trace is blown. ? just open the lid and look , need photo of naked board. have it. ( and stick your machanics nose there and say, see what you did) LOL !

the ecu pn are on my dead ecu page.
see this link it was there all the time.

http://kick-fix.com/All-Pdfs/Part-nums-lists/all-pn-list1.pdf


60A ecu is a 89/90 vit/kick ecu, and ecu has no hand in spark creation ,due to standalone distributor. totally wrong for your car.

cheers.

see my comments.................
 
#100 ·
Hello Kick,
I am getting that most of the good ECU on web for sale, are gone all within the last 10 days.....very lucky......however I will keep searching.....

Meantime, as I have spent so much time on this ECU (and you too answering me), it is becoming a matter of principle.....this board shall come alive again..........so:

Could you please explain better from which B connector pin shall I check backward along traces? Shall I start by B15 or B16??

Which component do you think could be blown? .....Tomorrow I will get back the ECU and I will inspect it with my nose very close to it......

Thanks for suggestions. :eek:

Cheers
Eon
 
#101 ·
yes, all for that .
only takes minutes to do.

the pin is ....B16 to IC11-p7 (8 pins total and i marked pin 1 on right.)
use an ohm meter to check continutuity between those two points zero ohms!
if open put a jumper wire on the back from those 2 points.



Image
 
#102 ·
Hello Kick,
I have checked the trace by IC11-p7 back to B16 pin. The trace is perfect,
indeed no damages are visible.

I double checked all traces under a strong light-magnifier.....nothing......no
signs of open circuit by trace damages....anywhere.....the board looks so new that is almost annoing that nothing is easily understandable.....

If you have other ideas....let me know...thanks.

Meanwhile I am trying to get in touch with someone selling spare ECU.

Thanks alot.
Cheers
Eon
 
#103 ·
the transistor is rated at 2amps in ic11.
it can be blown to heck

acid test for IC11
  • if the coil (FP relay) has 12v on one side. (main side, not ecu)
  • and coil reads like 12-40ohms (in the realm, not open)
  • and you crank motor?
  • and you dont get .7vdc or less on the B16 line above (this transistor has ultra low turn on resistance VCE (sat) btw)
  • and that trace is not cracked (still reads 0 ohms end to end)

all above true, then IC11 is TOAST.
 
#112 ·
Hello Kick,
so, you have a not working ECU for spare parts only?
If so, take your time.....no hurry......btw how much you
want for that?....

it could be that I will also manage to get a spare ECU meanwhile......
so my ECU will be a backup then......

anyway, thank you for your help.

Cheers
Eon
 
#113 ·
i will try now in few moments (sorry i forgot your ECU pn)
yes price is , postage only
I pluck the parts and give them away, im no scalper.
grin

yes, id not run any kick with out a spare (below 96)
and i have a 96 ecu for sale. just to lazy to list it on fleabay. my last ecu ,still whole.

they are cheap, i consider them free.
the first time its saves you, from a ton of labor and grief.
i bet the cost of the spare is free. huh?

bet is to get them before need. way better an you can bid low.
in panic you bid , buy it now.

there were $3500 new, then $1600 refurbed from dealers.
so $50 aint squat, no?