[Avrilt]

Hello. I have a problem where the car won't start due to the Yellow Key immobilizer lamp warning signal going off at times. It seems to be when someone opening the doors, or slamming them shut after exiting the car. And this could be any door, passenger or back doors, when slamming shut the lamp starts blinking and there is a signal beeping a few times. If I turn off the car while this light is blinking. It won't start again. It keeps the yellow light on and there is nothing that happens when I try pressing the start button.

This is a 2010 Suzuki Swift with keyless keyfobs. And it doesn't matter which one of the two keyfobs I use, same thing. In order to fix it temporarily, I need to pull the car battery and keep it off for at least 30 minutes or so, and then the car (most often) starts again.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Hi I’ve got the same problem with the immobiliser yellow key 🔑 light. Mine is a Suzuki swift 2012 key start. Although it was showing this my car still starts and drives ok.. I’ve taken it to Suzuki for diagnostics and they say it’s a Fault code stored B1120 internal failure of the body control module. £1200 !!!!! For a new one. I cannot afford and just not worth it with age if car !!

 

[Johnny72]

The system looks for the "presence" of the fob every time a door (any door) is opened and then closed, it's checking to make sure the fob is still in the vehicle, so to speak that whoever got out of the car doesn't have the fob in their pocket or purse.

A couple of questions for you ...

Do you have a message display on the dash or just warning lights ? Most of the push button start models have a "text display" that shows error messages in more detail than just a warning light. What message are you getting?
Have you tried replacing the fob batteries?
Do you know how to start the car with a dead fob battery?

View attachment 110612

If you have this style of smart key, try the following steps the next time the problem occurs - hold the key upright (like it is in the picture) and place it against the start button so the "open padlock" is over the button and use the smart key to push the button.

Let me know what happens...

Hi, Thank you for this advise! "hold the key upright (like it is in the picture) and place it against the start button so the "open padlock" is over the button and use the smart key to push the button" This helped starting the car, however, the smart key remote can still not lock or unlock the car and the lock/unlock buttons on the door handles also don't work. I have replaced the remote battery, no difference. Any idea? I have the 2016 Suzuki swift sport. Thank you

 

[fordem]

the smart key remote can still not lock or unlock the car and the lock/unlock buttons on the door handles also don't work. I have replaced the remote battery, no difference. Any idea?

I need to clarify something here - the procedure outlined allows the car to be started with a dead fob or a fob with a dead battery, it works by placing the immobilizer "ID chip" close to the antenna, which is around the push button. This is, strictly speaking not a part of the fob functionality

If the fob is not working to lock/unlock etc., and you have replaced the battery, you have either a dead fob, the fob has somehow become disassociated with the controller on the vehicle, or there is some sort of BCM (Body Control Module) related issue.

 

[wheelwright]

 

[fordem]

Just a word of caution - codes where the first digit is a "1" are "manufacturer specific" - so B1nnn is manufacturer specific, but a B0nnn is not - so a B1120 on a Suzuki is not necessarily the same as a B1120 on say a Toyota or a Nissan, you really need to get the factory service manual for the make & model to determine what these codes mean.

 

[Johnny72]

I need to clarify something here - the procedure outlined allows the car to be started with a dead fob or a fob with a dead battery, it works by placing the immobilizer "ID chip" close to the antenna, which is around the push button. This is, strictly speaking not a part of the fob functionality

If the fob is not working to lock/unlock etc., and you have replaced the battery, you have either a dead fob, the fob has somehow become disassociated with the controller on the vehicle, or there is some sort of BCM (Body Control Module) related issue.

Thanks for the response...a stupid fix in the end...the replacement battery used 1st, measured the correct voltage with a multimeter 3.1V, but seems it could not deliver the current required...purchased a new set of duracells and problem solved.