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suzuki n32a 3.2 v6

18K views 31 replies 9 participants last post by  JUSTY  
#1 ·
hi, just wondering if anyone has any info about the 3.2

just for interest sake, what i can gather it is similar to the holden alloy tec 3.6v6 in the holdens?

doing a quick search i have found the cam cover gasket kit suits both engines and the water pump also

Product Line: GMB water pumps, Made in Japan
Part #: W5000
Condition: New
Application: Holden 3.2L, 3.6L alloytec
Application: Suzuki N32A 3.2L
Contents: Pump and Gasket

so that would mean a 3.6ltr v6 out of a holden might be able to be bolted upto suzuki chassis and gearbox...

that motor in the us came in cadillac that was twin turbo, so there must be turbo engine internals around so in theory if stuff bolted up we should have a super tuff turbo engine in the zook:D

then maybe just maybe a 3.2 front subframe could be bolted to a swb with a 3.6 holden v6 for something a little wild:)
 
#4 ·
i think it would just be a tiny bit higher deck height or maybe bigger bore for the extra cc. being 60deg motor more deck height wouldnt matter to much.

i am fairly sure the auto is the toyota family a750f which would mean should be able to built it pretty tuff if needed.

something to keep in mind for future projects, thinking a turbo territory ghia would probably be better to start with about the same price as a 3.2 vitara and already turbo and tuff. plus have software to tune then so easy easy. like to be different tho so vitara with 300rwkw would be wild and 300kg less then terry too
 
#5 ·
little bit more of update about the v6

it has same stroke as the Holden 3.6 but the 3.6 has 5mm bigger bore

also the compression ratio is 10.0:1 where as the 3.6 is 10.2:1

have seen superchargers and turbos put on the 3.6 so the Suzuki with little bit lower comp should be fine with some boost. being same stroke and pretty much same kw for both motors i would take a guess and say that both would run similar size strength rods.

also the 190kw vz commodore had the 5speed auto which when compared to the suzuki gear ratios/diff ratios/tire dia they are fairly close in km/h at 6000rpm its only 4th which is a bit higher for the commodore. so performance wise they should be fairly similar to the commodore with similar power(they are a tad heavier but having awd might help in traction)

300rwhp zook is the next project, the 2ltr has served me well but has its limits. heavy duty clutch is struggling with 18psi and manual isnt good for 1/4 mile times
 
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#6 ·
@orangute338 how's this project coming along?

Sent from my MI 5s using Tapatalk
 
#7 ·
I would love to see an update on this. I have an '09 prestige and just cooked my engine. Thermo's failed and I had the car idling and yea...But I was looking at dropping a VE 3.6 into her for a bit of an upgrade and the motors looks near on identicle. I'd have to change the intake manifold and timing cover for the additional cam sensors(4 in zuk, only 2 in VE), but is their anything else I'd have to do? any help I would greatly appreciate. 😁
 
#11 ·
Yea one of my next things is modifying the exhaust too. I hate how it passes under the gearbox. When you get bellied up on a hump, it pushes the box up and I can't shift gear. Was going to have the pipe cross over under the back of the transfer case instead. Just wish there was a good place to route them through the rear frame.
 
#12 ·
There is room either side of the gearbox to fit twin pipes & join 2 to 1 at end of transfer. The V6 rear muffler don't fit my SWB. I used the 2.4 rear exhaust. That's why I'm fitting the twin system to let it breathe.
 
#13 ·
Yea it's the rear sub frame under the rear diff that sucks. There doesn't seem to be a good spot where the pipe won't get hit on rocks and such.
I was thinking of maybe using a 50mm section of thick wall pipe or double layer exhaust on the exposed bit to give it some strength. Should make it a bit harder to squash if I go over a rock or dirt rutt.
 
#17 ·
Yea. One issue as well is the muffler is heavy, a tight fit and cops a few whacks in the stock location. So I'm also thinking of getting a glass packed muffler and fitting it to the side of the drive shaft and just making a tail pipe for the rear. Will decide more when I get it on the hoist and actually do something with it. At the moment there is more talk than action 🤣
 
#20 ·
Please post it up here as I am interested.
Area of the pipes is 2 x 50mm = about 4000sq mm, 63mm about 3100 and a 75mm about 4400. A 70mm pipe would probably do since cylinders aren't all blowing at the same time. Mine is so quiet with the standard muffler I have been known to get out and wondered why the key won't lock it - because the engine is still running. Mind you I am a little hard of hearing.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the flow rates on the pipe , good to know. 5 door muffler won't fit 3 door. I refitted the 4 cylinder tail pipe & muffler to get it registered. After 8ks & 12 months it's time to do the exhaust. About your Vin no. Is it on the top of the firewall under the bonnet ?
 
#22 ·
Mine is a Jap import to NZ. It has a VIN # (ex Japan) but it is very short. I don't think the Japs were into long VIN numbers until much later on. It does have a long NZ VIN number which is absolutely meaningless except to about 5 people in the Govt somewhere. It is along the frame inside the front door. Unless you have a US VIN # they are pretty much useless.
 
#23 ·
Unless you have a US VIN # they are pretty much useless.
Not so - you just have to know how to decode them, or where to look for the data.

The US VINs may be unique in the fact that they follow a federally mandated format rather that the manufacturers being allowed to set their own format.

Back when I owned Mitsubishi Pajeros I could have told you, off the top of my head, the model, body style (2/4dr) and engine size if you gave me the VIN, or as Mitsubishi called it, the frame number - each character in the prefix had a specific meaning - the suffix was the production sequence number.

I can do the same for most Suzuki SUVs built prior to 2015, and for most Suzukis built prior to 2005, I can get you quite a bit of detail from the VIN, model, body style, transmission type, paint codes, even engine numbers.

Most automotive manufacturers utilize the VINs in their spare parts catalog systems - for Mitsubishi, if you cannot provide the dealer with the VIN, they cannot even access the catalog for your car, CAPPS (the Mitsubishi system) wants the VIN as the first step, quite a few parts people will use a VIN that they know is for a similar model to get around this, but there is no guarantee you'll get the correct part. Suzuki allows you to enter the VIN or select the model, if you select the model it lists the break points at which the part number changed.
 
#24 ·
Here is my VIN. Not my actual VIN (outside on the car and it is raining) but the layout used by the VIN issuer. Nothing useful like engine size, manufactured date, paint colour code. I don't know when my vehicle was imported but presumably no more than a couple of years before I bought it. This will probably be somewhere about the 2nd last group which is the date when the VIN was assigned. I think it sat on the lot for a bit because they spent a couple of grand on additions I wanted before I took it (roof rack and spare key fob + others). I find there is little on the VIN that is useful to me.
Found my VIN - turns out number issued in 2017. Somebody on here told me a few years back that this is the equivalent of the Japanese VIN - TDB4W-100458. The last 6 numbers, chassis #, is also the last 6 numbers of my VIN. Feel free to tell me what is useful with this VIN layout. Note the 2nd and 3rd blocks I can tell are accurate by just looking at the vehicle - I didn't need that information to
know what I have.
Image
 
#25 ·
I won't comment on a locally assigned VIN.

That said, a TDB4W will be a 3.2 liter engined Gen 3, and TDB4W-100458 is a Pearl White 2008, XS Grade, Gen 3 Escudo with the 3.2 engine & automatic transmission - now, what part are you looking for?
 
#27 ·
I am not after any part (at the moment). I was just pointing out that VINs often aren't as useful as everybody seems to think. Particularly the NZ one. The information you have is presumably gained from the Japanese 'VIN'. Our NZ VIN is useless. Owners need to make sure that what they think they can use may not be the right information. All these programs that say to insert your VIN are rubbish unless they state which VIN it was designed to work with.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for that. I have added that site to my records. I don't know where fordem got his information from so maybe he could post that. I had already found out from somewhere that the colour was pearl white (incidentally one of the few colours that cannot be reproduced from a single can of spray although they can get close) and what an XS Grade means.
As I said none of this information is in a NZ VIN so it is useless to me. I think the NZ VIN is more use to the govt somewhere - job justification or whatever. Next time I am in the local agents for Suzuki I must ask them about it (although the last time I was there was about 5 years ago when I bought an owners manual from them).
 
#29 ·
My car is a 2013 2 door SWB. When you check rego or Vin no. It comes up as 2.4 if you plug in scan tool it reads 3.2 V6. IT is registered as 3.2 V6. I removed the id tag before I scraped it & keep it with the owners manual for future reference.