I can't offer much, other than to say, clean all starter associated connections/wires and all vehicle grounds. Good luck

 

Where are you purchasing starter? Some "quality"rebuilds are far from that. Are you getting at least 10.6 volts to solenoid wire to activate starter? If you are it is prolly the starter if not you need to see why it is not getting the required voltage,~splice,damaged wire etc. Could be the alarm system too. Hope this helps.
rickf

 

There is no substitute for OEM parts.

 

4 times? My god!

Maybe you have some electrical problem, likely at the ignition switch, that keeps the starter turned on when the (gas) engine is working.
Which completely burns the starter.

 

1. Are the starters “truly” going bad? If so I would find another source. (Though a really bad ground path could be causing low voltage and high heat in the starter. Heat = Bad) As stated in an earlier post, not all rebuilds are “quality rebuilds.” Test the starter after you remove it.

2. Also as posted earlier, clean all your connections… Especially the ground path all the way back to the battery. When you do, use dielectric grease to help keep them clean. It also may be a good idea to replace the cables. ANY resistance in the path causes drops in the available voltage to turn the starter.

3. I am assuming the battery and charging systems have been checked and proven good.

 

Have you bench tested the starter?

Is the ground cable a known good wire (not internally cracked and shorting out)?

Is your battery below 9v? I think your alarm is draining power!

 

wow, , why do all that effort when 1 simple test will tell you what is wrong.?

and you say off the bat bad starter , how do you know that?
you dont! (sorry)

no you didnt get 3 bad starters.

first off one must eliminate the possibilities if a car will not crank

Please you,need to say , my car will not Crank or it does not start, which is it?
I will presume the is not cranking, ggggggrrrrr , grrrrrrrr ,grrrrrrr, no verrroomm run.
eh?

This is caused by 3 things.
1: battery is not charging for may reasons, even bad battery or bad alt or wiring. many many reasons.
2: Starter system is bad (there is more than just the starter-motor ok?)
3: bad cab wiring, the starter key line is bad or intermittent or the alarm is killing it or the clutch switch is bad. read on.



Ok
lets knock them off 1 by 1. ( i will assume you have few tools? so we proceed this way.

1: JUMPER CABLE start car, does this always work? (everyone has cables right)
2: try a known good battery, still dead. no start?
3: next hot wire the starter solenoid, as my page shows.
if that works, then the starter system is 100% perfect. ( that one test i mentioned above this is it)

#3 tests the battery the cables, the starter and the solenoid.

if #3 always works then the CAB wiring is bad.

now wast that easy? ,we now have the problem down to a specific single cheap little copper wire.

a wire that connects to the ignition switch and runs to the starter solenoid with the clutch in the middle.

if some haywire tech put in alarm /immobilizer /remote start or what ever the heck and mangled your wires then by all means put the car back to stock. UN DO THE HORROR.

once the car is working again, decide how to make that crappy other stuff work and not mess up a perfectly OK car.
I hate that stuff, mucking with primary circuits of any car requires careful work. few are up to it.

that drawing on my page should be all you need.

black-red thru Black-yellow.


you don't need a relay. Nop !!!
just put a jumper from Black-red to the Black yellow and the car will even start in gear.
(me , id find what is wrong and fix it)

there are other failure modes. (above is lions share of isseus, there is always the odd duck car)
hydra locked engine.
melted main fuse wires....
but you need to tell what the starter really does.
shorted starter (no not all 3 ,never never in a million years)

does it crank or does it not.?



do you know ,now , how to hot wire a starter? ( chocked wheels, in neutral , including xfer case)
saving all those trips to the store. OUCH !!!

if you want i can show you how to use a voltmeter and go right to the problem in 5 minutes. (no guessing ever)
you can shot gun the battery and the cables this time if testing , is not your bag.

the main battery cables crack,acid gets inside. and then they are no good, and very resistive and useless.
Is the starter main ground firmly attached and torqued down to the top starter mount bolt? IT must be.

do you one or have access to a volt meter?

cheers.

 

i would connect a relay in so the starter has a "direct" feed from the +ve battery terminal

use the existing starter wire to switch the relay

there are starter relay kits available from people like rocky road outfitters and spidertrax i think...

worst comes to worse, you can wire in a button connected to the battery and the small terminal on the starter! just make sure you dont hold the button too long as some cheapo ones will probably melt

 

help

i have vitara 1989 GLX i sarted suspention liffting i brought tiers 15/31. and lifted up from the front but i need to no wat kind off springs do i have to use at the higher then the vitaras plz answear me back quiuck

 

you don't need a relay.
millions of kicks start every day with no need for any relay. right?
the solenoid current is small.

just jump the 2 wires ( as shown) and be done with it.

why add another part that can fail. ?

for me , id fix it back to stock.
then when the next poor mech comes to work on it. He might be able to figure it out.
as opposed to being custom and is clueless.


but. first, troubleshoot it and find the real problem first. guessing is a big waste of time and money.

one simple test #3 above. and no more guessing.

VAHE you are a Hijacker, make your own fresh new post.

this is CAR will not start, not how to lift the car. gee.

 

I had the same problem and i got it fixed..... Heres what you do.

go to any store buy a 40amp releay and wire it to the starter ignition wire .and it will work GREAT!

 

you dont need a relay.
just a switch,
the solenoid is low current so low , in fact the cheesy key switch handles it no problem.
unlike sammi's

power >>> switch > solenoid key line term.

that is the min.
Normal open , push button momentary switch is the spec.
5-15a is the range, bigger is better.

you done need any 40amp anything.

but if you love extra parts, that can fail. go for it.

sorry. IMHO. its me job, Im the sparks guy.
i specialize in Electronic controls, starters , piece of cake.

 

Well lets state i had the same problem and after 2 BRAND new starters, a push button start off the fuse box, and still click click click. I changed all wires and Grounds added even more for Extra. and still click click. I wired it to my Driving lights seloind and WAM its never started Ever better.

Heres the link to the actual Page,
www.Clicky-Starter.com | Home

he does sell them but i made mine free,

 

2 tests with any VM and the problem is found.
see my no crank page,
schematic, technique and color codes.
what more do you need.

 

your souirce of power is NO GOOD.

if you did the nodal analysis youd find the real problem
turn key,
put meter minus to battery,minus
then red lead to starter,

you would have found 8v or less (this is the lower thershold for most solenoids)
then youd move the red meter lead back to the next linear point up stream.
8v bad
then back
to clutch switch
until you get 10 to 12v. bingo problem is between last 8v and this 12v.

ok in your case you have a bad fuse panel or feed or a bad push button.

you have resistanc where resistance must not BE.

thAT IS A fact and

put the voltmeter at the (meter lead) black to battery minus post. (never use body)
then put the meter at your special new fuse panel connection
turn key or push button of new switch no matter)
behold 8v ,
the meter will not lie to you , it will show the voltage from battery to starter.
the problem can be at ground or the power feed.
to find it , you then do voltage drops across the feed, then the ground.
any more than 1v and the feed or ground is bad.


i will guess the driving lites are hot wired directly to the battery.

if that is the case, then the ground to the battery and starter are good and to the solenoid.
you didnt say which fuse panel.
under dash or engine right finder, both are infamous for corrosion on the backside.
LOOK.

the easy problems are found by inspection, not all problems are that easy.
some require the knowledge of how to do nodal analysis.
in car school they dabble, in electronics, it is in depth.

A shorted starter can fool many.
an internal corroded, start cables others (volt drops test finds 100%)
a loose starter top ground lug or corroded.
and both fuse boxes ,love to corrode on the feed side.
they use fastons on the finder side. with silicon grease

your car is sick, it will get sicker as it corrodes more.
your no start problem, was just the tip of the ice berg.

BAD Power , bad ground, I place bet on bad feed.
The voltmeter ,see my no crank page , even has a photo with the VM inserted in the photo so you can see how to do it.

if you need help with the test points and methods just ask, i can give them out.
no problems help.

i like to fix problems and not hide them.
hiding problems , always comes back , just when you dont need it, far from home
dark and freezing rain.

been there, done that.

cheers.

once corrosion starts, it must be fixed or it will get worse, killing other things, that MUST BE WOrking,
LIKE ecu,
ETC.