I replaced the tensioner in my daughters 2001 XL-7 last September. I used permatex copper. Its a high temp. silicone that wont hurt sensors. It is a good machine finish that is being mated so use only a small bead. I used a putty knife to push sealant into the seams where the head meets the block. I also put a little extra at the oil pan and valve cover joints. No leaks and a lot cheaper than the Suzuki sealant.

 

Milbums,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I appreciate your advice.

I also want to thank you for your proceedure for replacing the timing chain tensioner. I am a father of two with one on the way and a stay at home wife (basically, living on a tight budget). You really saved me a lot of money. Your pictures were also great. I can't thank you enough for posting this information. If I did not have your warnings about securing the timing chain before removing the tensioner, I probably would have been in trouble.

By the way are the new tensioners any better than the old ones? Just wondering if I will get to repeat this procedure in another 60K.

Thanks, your help is really appreciated!

 

I am told that the new tensioner has been re-designed with a larger passage to reduce plugging. The main thing is to use a good 5w-20 oil and change on a consistant basis. Stay away from cheap oil filters as well. Lots of Suzukis with 200,000 miles with no issues.
I understand the tight budget I am a father of 5 with a stay at home wife. Three of my children drive with one getting her permit this year so I am the maintainer and mechanic for a small fleet.
I was in a similar situation as you and was unable to find the info I needed to do the work. I had alot of help from this site (Tim McCabe with torque specs and diagrams and Max and XL7 Limited with positive encouragement). I always take photos when I do a big job to reference when I put it back together. So I made the procedue to help others in the same situation.
I am curious, did you do this without removing the intake (loosening the valve cover and shimming it up)? I believe I wasted alot of time removing the intake and think it could have been done without.

Joel

 

Good to know the tensioner is redesigned. My chain, sprockets, and everything else looks like new. I did not use 5w-20 in the past though. I used 5w-30. I also used fram oil filters. I will be changing that bad habit after doing some research online. I am thinking about using purelator filters (the premium version). What do you use?

I did not remove the entire intake. I just loosened the covers and shimmed up. I did remove the throttle cable cam and bracket. I also removed the front part of the intake so I could remove the plastic air intake (could not get to the back valve cover nut). It was quite a job getting the back two nuts off of the valve covers. Thank goodness I have small hands. But as bad as those back nuts were it was still probably easier than taking off the intake.

The hardest part was breaking the valve covers loose. I used a dead blow hammer and a peice of wood with a metal hammer, but with the intake in the way I could only hit the front of the covers. They did finally break loose enough to pull up. The right side was easier because you have the oil filler cap to pull on. The left side took a little more effort. I cheated a little and used an old screw driver to pry (put electrical tape on it to prevent damage to aluminum)

The more I think about it you probably did not waste too much time. I would imagine the valve covers were easier to break loose and the back nut on the valve covers was easier to remove.

Father of Five, GOD bless you. You are the man.

Sidney

 

Permatex® Ultra Gray® Gasket Maker will work as well, it's the same as the Honda sealant. It's as close as you can get to the factory 3 Bond at about 1/10th the price..

Cheers,

Tim

 

Glad to be of help Joel.

Tim, great input as always!

You guys really go the extra mile.

Great post Sid! I'm on the fence about the Loctite though. It's an RTV which I think would work, but I'd lean toward the other suggested, or spring for the Zuki stuff.
Loctite® 5999™ Flange Sealant - Overview

Here's the TSB info on the tensioner and timing cover re-seal using Zuki Bond.
http://www.suzuki-grandvitara.nl/pdf/GV_TChainTensionerNoise.pdf

 

fantastic info guys.. Thanks very much..

 

cool!great info.

 

One more piece of info. I did email permatex about this question and I was very impressed. A representative from the company called me back with the recommendation of the permatex ultra grey. He did say the permatex copper would work also.

If you go to the permatex website and print out he TDS on the ultra grey you find out that it is the OE on honda and toyota as well as others. Also, the loctite product only comes in caulk gun tubes (300ml) whereas the permatex comes in smaller tubes which will be much easier to use in confined spaces.

 

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...om/products/gasketing/optimum-gasket-makers/permatex-optimum-grey-gasket-maker/

My problem with RTV (only as of late) is that I utilized some recently and it led to problems (entire work re-do). It never cured due to MY negligence. It was an old tube (which I then learned) obviously had shelf life issues.