All depends on your expectations, but not for a "C" note

 

Thanks aquanaut.
I will search more.

 

also bear in mind a lot of the modules on the XL-7 (and most of the other 'zukes around this era) use the propriety Suzuki SDL protocol and only the :"basic" emissions and simple diagnostic info is available using "normal" OBDII scantools. What sort of info are you trying to get out of it? (or want to get out of it?)

 

Thanks 2013GV
I want to do a basic scan to see whatever comes up as a baseline for future scans.
This should be done by/for everyone when a car is purchased. Instead of everyone being in the dark with a significant purchase that get gets more expensive by the year!

 

your baseline will be "no codes found". its that simple. If you don't have a MIL, you have no issue and no amount of scanning will help apart from looking at real time data like air fuel ratios and coolant temps.

Codes are only lodged when there is a fault recorded by the appropriate module, if its a "critical" code it will turn on the MIL. Until you have an MIL, effectively there is no issue.
Some non critical codes may lodge as "pending" as they need to be detected more than once, and within a specific set of criteria before they are classed as "critical" and activate the MIL. Some are transient and you never know you have had one.
Replacing the battery or running it flat usually resets the ECM so any "pending" codes are lost along with any stored ones.

Repair shops, such as mine, have rather expensive scan tools (like $4500 scan tools) that read almost everything. Suzuki authorised service agents get the propriety scan tool for suzuki vehicles with the appropriate security "dongles" that allow them to delve deeper than the expensive general market tools.

For all you need to do, a $10 ELM based reader and the torque app should work fine for basic engine codes. Someone on here will know which ones work for sure with your year and model.

 

2013GV
Do repair shops have to buy the proprietary software from Suzuki in order to do full scans? Do they buy once for continuious use or pay per scan? Which the shop would pass on to customer with markup?

 

2013GV
Thanks you gave me more information than I could get from any shop or dealer!
Coincidentally I replaced the battery at a Pennzoil shop 12-23-19 and 213 miles/19 days later the front left brake started grabbing real hard! Had inspection 1940 miles ago/6 months they said needed new front rotors! Rust? I had no brake problems prior!
He replaced rotors and brake pads not because they were anywhere near needing replacement but I understand when rotors are replaced brake pads are good to do.
6 months after that now brakes grabbing all of a sudden and I got home with real hot front left brake system. Few days later I took wheel off to check. No leaks. Wheel hard to turn. I took caliper off, losened the bleeder valve slightly and pushed in
the pistons.
Drove it 215 miles/18 days locked up again.
Few days later same routine. Checked slide pins moved smoothly, the bake pads seemed to move freely?
Drove again for a few errands/10 miles and locked up again on way home.
I guess I need caliper and maybe brake hose just to be safe and new brake shoes on that wheel only since only 2000 miles on shoes right side and had not hung up.
I guess have to have rotor checked because of excessive heat?
Had this car 5 years never had any problem with brake hardware but I did have soft pedal/intermittent vibration, 2/ 1/2 years ago. A fiasco! A dealer I was going to former big Suzuki dealer. Had trouble diagnosing the problem. $1050.00 Replaced all of the the wheel speed sensors? Then month later engine light came on went to smaller garage they diagnosed O2 sensors bad. Replaced then 6 days later engine light again replaced another O2 sensor. $350.00 total both jobs.
Now 6500 miles/2 years later this. I guess I shouldn't be too upset. But the next problem will be here sooner or later.
That's why I wanted to get a baseline of the individual systems present condition. I guess the computer modules in this 13 year old vehicle have a lot of limitations as for reading how far along the wear and tear of each computer system/part maybe? Maybe such a capability does not exist for any vehicle?

 

I guess the computer modules in this 13 year old vehicle have a lot of limitations as for reading how far along the wear and tear of each computer system/part maybe? Maybe such a capability does not exist for any vehicle?

No need to guess, the vehicle does not know!

Per you issue with braking, check for collapsed flex hose on the faulting corner (this sometimes happens when the unit is not hung properly during maintenance..)... the disk, caliper and pads should be OK..,

 

I was going to say collapsed hose but Aquanaut beat me to it. Single corner brake grabbing is usually a hose or a blockage preventing pressure coming off. Very very rarely its a sticking solenoid in the ABS. Change the hose first. I've seen new hoses wrecked by letting calipers hang on them, Visually externally they look good, internally they are toast.

 

Thank you 2013GV.
I will get brake hose and maybe cheap bleeder kit.
I will let you and aquanaut20 know how it works in a few days
Thanks so much

Aquanaut and 2013GV
Well I changed the brake hose and bled brake I hope. I got cheap $10.00 kit at AutoZone the one you recommended Amazon was out of. The bleeder kit hose was too small! I forced on just barely to bleeder hose instead of getting a ride to AutoZone for larger vinyl bleeder hose. I had help to push down on brake two times. Checked brake fluid reservoir and not much lost while changing hose and bleeding. I have driven about 150 miles since brake hose replacement. Seems to work ok. No grabbing brake now. A bit of squeal initially when braking. Hope pads on that side where pads were locking up/grabbing didn't wear down too much! Need to replace soon? Front were both replaced 2000 miles ago. I drive speed limit and don't ride the brakes. See pics of pads below. Show after locking up/grabbing took apart to check damage and push pistons in to see if that would solve problem but grabbing returned then replaced brake hose first at you and 2013GV's suggestion before changing caliper.

How do the brake pads look?

I didn't measure width of pads. I should have. I will if too small amount of brake pad wear causing warning tab to engage?
Thanks

 

bleed via gravity rarely works, remove M/C cap, plastic bag across opening, screw cap back on. Change hose, open bleed valve on caliper and remove plastic bag from cylinder. keep master cyl full. I will be surprised if it gravity bleeds. if it doesn't, close bleed nipple. Bleed as per usual procedure, press and hold pedal, open bleed nipple, close, release brake pedal slowly, repeat until fluid from nipple is free of bubbles.

usually allow 500 mls for a hose and caliper bleed, by the time you flush the whole caliper full thru it to get the trapped air out of the hose.

 

Even though yeah it's a big one

 

I use a vacuum method with a reservoir attached to the M/C

 

Thank you 2013GV.
I will get brake hose and maybe cheap bleeder kit.
I will let you and aquanaut20 know how it works in a few days
Thanks so much

 

I have had good service with this unit as well... https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07SH49QLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The Launch CRP123 for about $150 on Amazon will read all of the systems like Transmission, ABS and Engine systems. It will read and report all of the vehicle specific codes and system data. I have one and used it to look at the cam timing data. It can record and save the data. So if you want to compare old to current data this will do that for you. It also does this for almost all of the car manufactures.

 

• "PDbrains" Thanks for info. I will check out. 2013GV had something to say about scan tools for Suzuki cars you might be interested in also on my post.

https://www.suzuki-

forums.com/members/2013gv.138466/

 

Great that the grabbing condition has been resolved, the pads are serviceable...

 

Thanks for your help Aquanaut.

 

those pads look almost new, they should be fine. Glad the hose fixed the problem, and thanks for letting us know.
Replacing them when they are 1/2 way between the bottom of the big groove and the backing plate is a good rule of thumb, if you look, thats just above the wear tab noise maker.