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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What is the cheapest scan tool that will read all systems/codes? Any code readers under $100.00 that can read the most critical systems?
If I just talk to a Chevy Dealer would I expect them to have a scan tool that will give all the systems readouts that I can get a copy of and have service writer/service manager go over with me to see what if any codes and if need some adjustments/ repair?
It costs a lot no matter where you go for even diagnostics.
I am sure not many Chevy Dealers/service writers/service managers/mechanics know the following:
"Since Suzuki XL7 was built in Canada with partner GM and their Theta platform/ compact crossover SUV automotive platform which includes Saturn Vue in 2002 then later used the Chevy Equinox and Captiva and similar models, Pontiac Torrent, Suzuki XL7 and the GMC Terrain. Suzuki XL7 built alongside the Chevy Equinox and Torrent at CAMU Automotive in Ingersoll, Ontario, Canada. Suzuki XL7 styled by Suzuki, engineering was performed by GM engineers in the US and Canada." GM Theta platform - Wikipedia"
Also:
 

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also bear in mind a lot of the modules on the XL-7 (and most of the other 'zukes around this era) use the propriety Suzuki SDL protocol and only the :"basic" emissions and simple diagnostic info is available using "normal" OBDII scantools. What sort of info are you trying to get out of it? (or want to get out of it?)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks 2013GV
I want to do a basic scan to see whatever comes up as a baseline for future scans.
This should be done by/for everyone when a car is purchased. Instead of everyone being in the dark with a significant purchase that get gets more expensive by the year!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
2013GV
Do repair shops have to buy the proprietary software from Suzuki in order to do full scans? Do they buy once for continuious use or pay per scan? Which the shop would pass on to customer with markup?
 

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Thanks 2013GV
I want to do a basic scan to see whatever comes up as a baseline for future scans.
This should be done by/for everyone when a car is purchased. Instead of everyone being in the dark with a significant purchase that get gets more expensive by the year!
your baseline will be "no codes found". its that simple. If you don't have a MIL, you have no issue and no amount of scanning will help apart from looking at real time data like air fuel ratios and coolant temps.

Codes are only lodged when there is a fault recorded by the appropriate module, if its a "critical" code it will turn on the MIL. Until you have an MIL, effectively there is no issue.
Some non critical codes may lodge as "pending" as they need to be detected more than once, and within a specific set of criteria before they are classed as "critical" and activate the MIL. Some are transient and you never know you have had one.
Replacing the battery or running it flat usually resets the ECM so any "pending" codes are lost along with any stored ones.

Repair shops, such as mine, have rather expensive scan tools (like $4500 scan tools) that read almost everything. Suzuki authorised service agents get the propriety scan tool for suzuki vehicles with the appropriate security "dongles" that allow them to delve deeper than the expensive general market tools.

For all you need to do, a $10 ELM based reader and the torque app should work fine for basic engine codes. Someone on here will know which ones work for sure with your year and model.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
2013GV
Thanks you gave me more information than I could get from any shop or dealer!
Coincidentally I replaced the battery at a Pennzoil shop 12-23-19 and 213 miles/19 days later the front left brake started grabbing real hard! Had inspection 1940 miles ago/6 months they said needed new front rotors! Rust? I had no brake problems prior!
He replaced rotors and brake pads not because they were anywhere near needing replacement but I understand when rotors are replaced brake pads are good to do.
6 months after that now brakes grabbing all of a sudden and I got home with real hot front left brake system. Few days later I took wheel off to check. No leaks. Wheel hard to turn. I took caliper off, losened the bleeder valve slightly and pushed in
the pistons.
Drove it 215 miles/18 days locked up again.
Few days later same routine. Checked slide pins moved smoothly, the bake pads seemed to move freely?
Drove again for a few errands/10 miles and locked up again on way home.
I guess I need caliper and maybe brake hose just to be safe and new brake shoes on that wheel only since only 2000 miles on shoes right side and had not hung up.
I guess have to have rotor checked because of excessive heat?
Had this car 5 years never had any problem with brake hardware but I did have soft pedal/intermittent vibration, 2/ 1/2 years ago. A fiasco! A dealer I was going to former big Suzuki dealer. Had trouble diagnosing the problem. $1050.00 Replaced all of the the wheel speed sensors? Then month later engine light came on went to smaller garage they diagnosed O2 sensors bad. Replaced then 6 days later engine light again replaced another O2 sensor. $350.00 total both jobs.
Now 6500 miles/2 years later this. I guess I shouldn't be too upset. But the next problem will be here sooner or later.
That's why I wanted to get a baseline of the individual systems present condition. I guess the computer modules in this 13 year old vehicle have a lot of limitations as for reading how far along the wear and tear of each computer system/part maybe? Maybe such a capability does not exist for any vehicle?
 

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I guess the computer modules in this 13 year old vehicle have a lot of limitations as for reading how far along the wear and tear of each computer system/part maybe? Maybe such a capability does not exist for any vehicle?
No need to guess, the vehicle does not know!

Per you issue with braking, check for collapsed flex hose on the faulting corner (this sometimes happens when the unit is not hung properly during maintenance..)... the disk, caliper and pads should be OK..,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No need to guess, the vehicle does not know!

Per you issue with braking, check for collapsed flex hose on the faulting corner (this sometimes happens when the unit is not hung properly during maintenance..)... the disk, caliper and pads should be OK..,
Thanks aquanaut20 I will replace hose first. Hose looks brand new? He must have cleaned off after replacing rotor and pads? I have seen warnings about letting brake hose hang loose!
I had a brake hose on right front replaced 5000 miles/18 months ago due to brake grabbing at low speed took a really steep and angled side road which was not built with correct pitch that may have put extra stress on that brake hose just minutes before brake started grabbing with strong burning smell with car windows closed! A dealer was a mile away! Just in time.
 

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I was going to say collapsed hose but Aquanaut beat me to it. Single corner brake grabbing is usually a hose or a blockage preventing pressure coming off. Very very rarely its a sticking solenoid in the ABS. Change the hose first. I've seen new hoses wrecked by letting calipers hang on them, Visually externally they look good, internally they are toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks aquanaut20 I will replace hose first. Hose looks brand new? He must have cleaned off after replacing rotor and pads? I have seen warnings about letting brake hose hang loose!
I had a brake hose on right front replaced 5000 miles/18 months ago due to brake grabbing at low speed took a really steep and angled side road which was not built with correct pitch that may have put extra stress on that brake hose just minutes before brake started grabbing with strong burning smell with car windows closed! A dealer was a mile away! Just in time.
I was going to say collapsed hose but Aquanaut beat me to it. Single corner brake grabbing is usually a hose or a blockage preventing pressure coming off. Very very rarely its a sticking solenoid in the ABS. Change the hose first.
Thank you also 2013GV I will order new hose. I will order grease for slide pins just in case and bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed line by gravity. How much to fill new hose and bleed air with clear plastic line connected to the bleeder line to see air bubbles and watch reservoir make sure it stays full with cap unscrewed gravity filling hose?
 

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bleed via gravity rarely works, remove M/C cap, plastic bag across opening, screw cap back on. Change hose, open bleed valve on caliper and remove plastic bag from cylinder. keep master cyl full. I will be surprised if it gravity bleeds. if it doesn't, close bleed nipple. Bleed as per usual procedure, press and hold pedal, open bleed nipple, close, release brake pedal slowly, repeat until fluid from nipple is free of bubbles.

usually allow 500 mls for a hose and caliper bleed, by the time you flush the whole caliper full thru it to get the trapped air out of the hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
bleed via gravity rarely works, remove M/C cap, plastic bag across opening, screw cap back on. Change hose, open bleed valve on caliper and remove plastic bag from cylinder. keep master cyl full. I will be surprised if it gravity bleeds. if it doesn't, close bleed nipple. Bleed as per usual procedure, press and hold pedal, open bleed nipple, close, release brake pedal slowly, repeat until fluid from nipple is free of bubbles.

usually allow 500 mls for a hose and caliper bleed, by the time you flush the whole caliper full thru it to get the trapped air out of the hose.
Even though yeah it's a big one
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you 2013GV.
I will get brake hose and maybe cheap bleeder kit.
I will let you and aquanaut20 know how it works in a few days
Thanks so much
 
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