[MIPS]

Okay, here's the new compression numbers WITH the gas being pressed to the floor while cranking:

1 - 155 psi
2 - 142 psi
3 - 144 psi
4 - 150 psi

 

[Bex]

As a comparison, my 1991 gives 175-180 on all cylinders. It is possible that your valve lash is off, which would raise the compression a bit - have you ever adjusted your valves? Your numbers are borderline. There are instructions on the forum for the valve lash adjustment. I would do that first.

 

[MIPS]

I can get on that tomorrow. I've been holding off checking them until I replaced three stripped bolts on my intake assembly.

 

[Bex]

In looking at your photos more closely, I find your thermostat housing pretty interesting - it appears that possibly this has been replaced at some time. The housing originally had a 1mm flange (like yours) which was changed in mid 1991 to a 4mm one. My car has the 4mm one (1991) which needs a 5mm gasket. Although I see sealant around your thermostat, I wonder if you have also used the paper gasket that is supposed to be ued with the 1mm housing....

 

[MIPS]

I've used both paper and rubber seals in the past. Both seemed to do their job fine.

Okay, so before I go any further I'm having trouble finding if the crank sprocket bolt is reverse thread or not. Even with the belt wrench this thing is being a pain in the dick to get off and I don't want to be tightening it. Beyond that I'm not feeling any wobble in said sprocket and both it and the camshaft sprockets are aligned. I'll check the valves after I remove and inspect the keyway.

Being the first time I've turned the car by hand with the valve cover off I'm hearing a fair bit of hissing when I turn the crankshaft clockwise and the cylinders do their strokes. Is it normal for the valve seals to do this or is would this be an indicator for me that they were NOT replaced when the head was resurfaced?

 

[Rhinoman]

Okay, so before I go any further I'm having trouble finding if the crank sprocket bolt is reverse thread or not. Even with the belt wrench this thing is being a pain in the dick to get off and I don't want to be tightening it.

Its a standard thread. Are you sure its the valve seals or just the air moving past the valves.

 

[MIPS]

I can't be sure at all. I'm not really paying too much attention to it because in all honesty the valve seats are a spring loaded metal on metal fit. IT would hold pressure for the split second during combustion but not for a few seconds.

Anyways, I'll try using a 5' extension on my wrench and see what happens.

EDITED: It ain't coming off. It just broke by belt wrench and I realized my torque wrench is only rated up to 45 Ft Lbs.
I'll just double check the belt timing and then check the valves and that's the best I can do but I don't think the key is in poor shape at this point. It isn't showing the obvious signs at least.

 

[aquanaut20]

Physical bring #4 TDC(c), Then check the valve train, the #4 cams should be on the heels... If not the static engine timing is off..... Philip

 

[ImaginaryKaos]

In my opinion the key is here... "In cold environments the engine still bogs when cold, when hot the engine knocks when under heavy load and at all times the exhaust has excess moisture and soot which indicate a slightly rich mixture"

Bogging when cold and knocking when hot indicates a LEAN mixture. Disregard the soot and moisture for a moment and look at the main symptoms. Bogging when cold happens when the mixture is not enriched... I would look at the engine temp sensor, not the one for the gauge, the one for the ECU. When an engine knocks from a lean mixture, you will also get puffs of black smoke/soot. Remember the spark plug isn't firing the air/fuel charge. It's spontaneously combusting and does not burn completely, thus the black smoke/soot. Also the catalytic converter will produce MORE water vapor during lean conditions because there is so much oxygen left over in the exhaust stream.

Check your intake for an air leak, make sure the TB injector is clean, check the fuel pressure, and make sure the o2 sensor isn't shorted.

 

[MIPS]

I've run through and replaced anything on the engine that I suspected for failure or age, this included the O2 sensor and both water temp sensors.
I still suspect a rich mix. Even at stop lights with the roof off a hard acceleration I can SMELL the gas.

So anyways, I pulled the front off the engine to ensure that with #1 at TDC everything lined up.

(It's pointing at spark plug 1)

After reassembly I checked that the pulley timing marks were at 0.

Then I adjusted the valves with the engine COLD to the spec sheet under the hood.

There was very little play so the lashings were good. I then threw everything back together and drove the car until hot, then set the distributor ignition timing as per spec and with the idle lock jumper installed.
I also removed, cleaned and reset the plugs to spec as well.

The Injector is one of the last things in the car I have not played with aside form the TPS and Idle Air Control Valve and all three are not cheap.
For the injector I have given it a can of injector cleaner but otherwise never removed it or taken off the intake to see how the spray pattern is. For the IAC the best all I ever did was unplug it and hear the engine rev down and I will honestly dare not touch the TPS.

 

[Bex]

The engine timing on this car is done to cylinder #4 compression stroke. The ignition timing is done to cylinder #1

 

[big ed]

Hears a thought...do that compression test again (WET)...sounds like and looks like a lot of blowby on the rings...that's the hissing your hearing.