I would assume that if your car is actually wired for the 4 wire o2 sensor, there is no reason why you couldn't put the new 4 wire sensor into it. The color schematic for the US o2 sensors is a bit different - certainly the two heater wires are the white ones, and they are interchangeable. The US Suzuki harness would have these as the black/white and the pink wire, so somewhat similar to your info. The US Suzuki harness would have the ground (on the ECU side of the connector) as a grey/yellow wire, however. As long as you have confirmed the function of your own harness colors, I can't see any reason why hooking up a 4 wire sensor to a 4 wire harness shouldn't work.

 

Your ECU may not support a heated O2 sensor, what part number is it? The other issue is that a heated sensor is usually placed lower down the manifold so the heater can regulate the temperature properly.

 

Your wire colours look OK but you should check the ground and signal using a multi-meter on the Ohms range.

 

here is my ECU number: 33920 57B10, photo attached.

can you please tell me how to check ground\signal? where should i put the ohmmeter, between X and Y.

 

You need to check between the harness connector wires and the body, the ground wire will show 0 Ohms or thereabouts. the signal wire should show 500k Ohms or 1M Ohm

 

between ground wire (black\red wire in my photo) and body i have 2-3 ohms. ignition off.
between signal wire (red\blue wire in my photo) and body i have 1.12 mega ohms. ignition on. only works that way.
By the way....i have a 15$ U.S dollar multimeter.

is this ok? i have a green line installing a 4 wire o2 sensor?

PS: if this counts....i have made a little mistake, my black\red wire actual color is: black with a green line and brown dots. didn't know what i was thinking when i modified the photo.

 

That sounds OK, I will check the software for the 57B10 to see if it will drive the heater.

 

Thanks. Please let me know.

 

one more thing, between my black\white wire and pink\black wire, where theoretically the o2 sensor heater wires comes i have between 7.5 - 10 volts. nothing stable.

 

That's possible, the heater won't be turned on unless the engine is running, from memory the coolant temperature has to be above 20C as well, if you turn it on cold then there will be too high an inrush current which could lead to the ceramic heater element cracking.

 

great! thank you.
when i have checked the voltage between the wires the outside temp was about 20-25C, summer time.
but the engine wasn't running. only the ignition was on.

i will also check the voltage when the cold weather appear.

 

It won't work. I have just checked and the software does support the heater but the drive circuitry is not fitted.

 

Oh... then why i have 7-10volts coming from the car harness? Where i assume i can connect the o2 heater wires to power it.

 

You will get 12V from the connector because it is connected to the main ECU actuators supply. The other end goes to the ECU, I haven't checked both sides of the PCB but I suspect that you have an ESD/EMC capacitor fitted which is making it look like its properly connected, its not good to leave pins connected to tracks that go nowhere. This is my 57B10, you can see where the components would normally be fitted along the top of the PCB, R931, T931 and a couple of others:

 

now i have understood your post.
i haven't seen the first time that you showed me what to look for; "R931, T931". sorry, my bad.

i will PM you.

 

i really don't know what to look for in your photo. i don't know too much about electrical circuits. only basic stuff.

so...in this case
if i connect the o2 heater wires to this 2 wires that we are talking about, can i damage something?

or it will be better to connect them directly, one at battery + and one at the car body? powered only when the engine is running. of course...with the risk of damaging the ceramic heating component of the o2 sensor.

and what about the ground wire of the o2 sensor signal, can i connect it to my black/red wire coupler? is it safe?

 

You could connect the heater to the 12V from the connector and then connect the wire that, at present, goes to the ECU though a switch to ground. The best method would be to source a 57B30 ECU which would be a straight swap for your 57B10, then you can connect the heated sensor to the existing connector and all would be good.

 

meanwhile...

a friend told me that he has find a 57B30 ECU, but it is not perfect, it is faulty, don't know exactly what is the problem, i didn't received the ECU yet.

so...

assuming that the o2 sensor related parts from my friend ECU are good, can i put them in my ECU? solder them in their places.

after studying 57B10 vs 57B30 pictures i have found the next differences...
i don't have these parts (in my ECU), from top to bottom, red circle: T932, T933, R933, T931, R931.
photo with missing parts:
View image: 57 B10 missing components 57B10 ECU
View image: 57 B30 normal 57B30 ECU

is my theory ok? will it work?

this is the ECU i will get from my friend:http://postimg.org/image/bfhs0hg1v/

 

Yes you can swap the parts over to your ECU.

 

ok, i will do that.
thank's

 

It might be easier or quicker to fix the "new" (replacement) ECU. Often they just need a few new capacitors.

 

i will post the results.
i will decide what to do after i will get the "new" ECU.

 

my friend ECU was dead, car won't start.
so...i have transplanted R931, T931, R933, T932, T933 components into my ECU. View image: 57 B10 missing components

car is starting, no check engine light.
i haven't mounted the heated o2 sensor because i have a crack in my exhaust gallery and i have to repair it.

is there anything else i should do to check the circuit\control sistem for the heated o2 sensor?

 

update:

my retrofit has came to an end! there are more differences between 57B10 ECU and 57B30 ECU.

i have forgotten that the ECU board has an electrical circuit on both sides and on the other side it has tiny resistors that theoretically i should transfer them to my ecu, to get the retrofit job completely done.
but because they are so tiny, i was afraid not to damage my ECU so i came to an end.

photos with 57b30 and 57b10 differences. black "circle".
http://s5.postimg.org/4qgvzkjgn/57b30_rear.jpg 57B30 ECU
http://s5.postimg.org/4ezfmt30n/57b10_rear.jpg 57B10 ECU

in the end i have wired the heater to 12v directly (ignition only+engine running only) with a 4 amp fuse and that is it, it is working so far.
by the way, i have better mileage with the new sensor.

 

With those resistors you need to use a large amount of solder on the iron and then work it along the side of the resistor, heating both ends and it will come straight off. I usually just replace them with new but you can clean up the old ones with solder wick.
I also have this kit:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1286106.pdf

 

i am not skilled enough for this job, i am afraid.
thank you anyway!