You need to lower the front axle assembly in order to acquire the needed oil pan clearance to extract the engine. Apparently so much so that the prop shaft will dislodge its self.

Match mark the prop shaft flange orientation too, so that you "clock" it back in the way it was originally set-up. It may save you from a later vibration issue.

 

OK since this is a 4 Wheel Dr. part of lowering the front axle includes may be removing the differential assembly?

Or at least unmounting the differential housing assembly from the frame of the car? Is there anything else I need to disconnect on the front axle assembly or will this give me enough clearance?

 

lowering the front axle includes may be removing the differential assembly?

That would be referencing the entire front axle assembly as a unit, verses pulling the differential gearing apart.

Edit: confirmed, you need to only disconnect the front drive shaft, leave the CV axles in place, disconnect the axle assembly at the mounts, and twist / lower the entire assembly to gain the needed oil pan clearance.

 

OK now what do I do? I was removing the air Plenum bolts and one of them snapped off I don't own a welder any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have a automatic transmission 4wd how do I access The torque converter bolts to separate the transmission from the engine?

 

Plenum bolts and one of them snapped off I don't own a welder any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

One has to PRECISELY center-punch the broken portion, drill straight thru the remaining stud (maintaining the same hole axis) out to the tap drill size. Then "chase" the threads with the same stud size TAP.

DON'T be tempted to use an Easy-Out remover in the drilled hole, as 9 times out of 10 (on a fastener seized by corrosion) you will snap the tool off and be in a worse case world of hurt.

You also need to exercise extreme TLC and have the needed experience, to re-drill and remove fasteners broken off like this.

 

What about just leaving that bolt out and putting some RTV around the hole?

 

I have a automatic transmission 4wd how do I access The torque converter bolts to separate the transmission from the engine?

See the Service Manual (from the FAQ section). Section 7B-1, Vol 1 of 1.

Manual in part...

12) Remove engine to transmission nuts.
13) Disconnect connectors from VSS, output speed sensor, input
speed sensor, TR switch, shift & TCC solenoid valves and oth-
er electrical parts, and release their wire harness from clamps.
14) Apply transmission jack and take off rear mounting member by
removing its bolts.
15) With transmission (and transfer if equipped) assembly held up
on jack, move them to the rear and lower them including torque converter.

Here's a step-by-step...

http://www.autozone.com/repairguide...6/Automatic-Transmission/Transmission-Removal-Installation/_/P-0996b43f8037c502

 

What about just leaving that bolt out and putting some RTV around the hole?

Then you run the risk of a probable leak. :huh:

 

The Torque converter is connected to the flex plat with 6-8 bolts, accessed via an inspection plate at the front bottom of the bell housing or via the starter mounting hole..

.. Philip

 

Thank you I will try this

 

I am actually replacing the engine not the transmission. Could the same thing be achieved by lifting the engine away from the transmission?

 

Yes, pull the radiator to allow room to swing engine and avert damage to rad...

You may also have to drop the front diff to allow room for the oil pan to clear..

.. Philip

 

No room to bolt engine to transmission

Ok I finally got my 2.5l H25 engine installed into my 2001 chevy Tracker (like grand Vitara)
But there isn't any room to put the bolts into the torque converter my front differential is in the way and I can't get it out because the right side drive shaft cannot come out all the way. The only solution I can think of now is to remove the drive shaft by removing it through the wheel.

Help !!!

 

Snap On make a kit called a Stud Extractor kit.....start of by drilling a small hole in the broken stud then tap in the smallest Extractor....if it doesn't work drill larger hole and use larger Extractor.

 

Stud removal isn't the issue here, I believe.

For the OP, break out the earlier mentioned Service Manual and remove interference as needed, is all that I can suggest. Beyond that, I really don't understand the problem from what you've written. :huh:

 

I have 2001 Chevrolet Tracker can't move shifter

I am in the final stages of replacing the engine, I have a 2001 Chevrolet Tracker 2.5L H25 Engine 4WD, Automatic Transmission - Suzuki Engine.

I just noticed that I am not able to move the gear shifter, It is locked even though I have the key inserted and turned on, the steering wheel moves freely and I have not done anything to the transmission. I even put my foot on the brake, because I know some cars won't let you shift into neutral or any gear unless you press on the brake pedal. I do have the battery removed from the vehicle, could that have something to do with it?

 

Is there a button you are able to press in on the shift handle to allow it to move? Maybe that mechanism is not connected or engaged properly, not sure what you mean by final stages or replacing the engine.

 

I just need to install radiator and connect exhaust manifold pipes. Yes there is a button but it won't push in - it is locked also

 

I believe there is a shift lock solenoid, if this is correct it will not select with the battery disconnected and brake pedal not pressed.

 

That's what I am hoping for. I will try it tomorrow when I finish installing everything. What's weird is I have another chevrolet tracker one year newer 2002 with no battery and I can move the shifter fine. This is the vehicle I just took the engine out of.

 

I've moved your related shifter problem to this original engine change-out thread to keep the total project in perspective.

Also your providing any progressing feedback, tips and tricks to this thread will help others in the future.

For example...
How did you overcome the engine removal interference and front axle clearance issues? :huh:

Torque convertor mounting bolt access problem?

 

Since my car is a 4wd i had to remove the front differential mounting bolts in order to get the needed oil pan clearance to remove the engine from my car.

There are two bolts that need to be removed from the main cross-member, 3 bolts to remove on the drivers side support bracket along with the 3 bolts that attach the differential to drivers side drive axle, four bolts on the passenger side support bracket, and finally the four bolts that connect the differential to the front propeller shaft (be sure to mark the propeller shaft so you reinstall it into the same holes for proper balancing). With these bolt removed the differential should be free to move or remove whichever you prefer.

Do not completely reattach differential until you have tightened the drive plate to torque converter bolts to transmission. These bolts are accessed by removing the two screws that hold the inspection plate ( just behind the oil pan). You will need to have the differential free to get the needed clearance to access these bolts or do what I did using a pry bar separate the differential at the knuckle where it attaches to the passenger side axle and slide it off the shaft as far as possible to get even more clearance to access the transmission bolts.

Be sure to at least set the differential in place before reinstalling your engine. I am not sure it could be installed after the engine is in place because it sits right next to the oil pan. I tried to remove my differential after my engine was installed and it was trapped in there between the passenger side axle and the oil pan.

 

Nice! Thanks.

 

Sounds like a vacuum cleaner is running on top my engine air leak 2.5 L Suzuki engine

Suzuki 2.5 L engine air leak in top of engine
Ok I just installed engine into my 2.5 L 2002 Chevrolet tracker everything runs fine accept it sounds like a shop vac vaccuum is running on top my engine. I got some soapy water and started spraying and the sound changes when I spray around the middle intake manifold bolt but I can't see any water spraying or bubbles being made. The only thing I can think to do is take offny intake manifold and put gasket RTV around it. Does anybody know if there is a torquing sequence for the intake manifold ? I can't find one in the service manual but it just seems to me that there would be some logical sequence to follow to make sure it get seated down properly

 

Didn't you report snapping OFF an intake mounting bolt earlier?

And to better ID the noise source...place a length of small diameter rubber hose to your ear and probe with the other end.

And why are you still starting NEW threads when your engine change saga is already in place? (I'll move it AGAIN).

OH! and tell us how you got past the locked-up shifter too!