[Garrydhu]

Good day,

This is the first time I contribute to this forum. At this moment there are no instructions online about how to do such work for the Ignis. I have researched on the net based on similar models having the same model of CVT. Below are the details of the job, and I will also write a QnA before going through the steps with photos.

Objective: replace CVT inline filter, and replace as much CVT fluid as possible.

Car: AUS 2016 Ignis GLX, 1.2 litre K12C engine, non-hybrid, CVT model : Jatco CVT7 JF015E / RE0F11A, the car has done 44,XXX km

Fluid choice: Nissan NS-3, you cannot get the Suzuki fluid Green-2 from the dealers in Australia. The same CVT in the Nissan will require NS-3, and the same CVT in Mitsubishi would require QiaQueen J4. Given buying genuine NS-3 from a Nissan dealer is the cheapest option, I got the NS-3 from Nissan.
I would not use the “universal” ones even from a reputable oil maker because CVT fluid is very CVT model-specific, and they are not cheaper than the Nissan ones!

Replace inline filter process:
The whole process will be easier if the wheels are turned slightly to the left, or if the wheel is removed.
Jack the car up, and remove the (AUS / UK passenger side) front wheel arch liner. There are approximately 10 screws to remove from the side and from the bottom of the car. Using a panel screw removal tool is a must, and you need to have spare screws because trust me, you will break some.
You will see the CVT7, and the filter housing, remove the 10mm bolt, turn the housing anti-clockwise, open the filter housing, replace the filter, and reverse the process. (there are heaps of videos of opening up the housing on youtube).

You will need to observe and count the little volume of old CVT fluid being drained out. I got the filter from Amazon, ensure that you check the quality before installation. Next time I probably will get a genuine one from a Nissan dealer. As long as the filter is for CVT7 they are the right ones.


Replace CVT fluid method:
Gravity drops from the drain hole. Measure the drained volume at the outside temperature, and replace it with the same amount of new CVT fluid. Fill the new fluid from the dipstick hole, using a long (at least 48cm tall) funnel. Remember to measure precisely how much was drained out, and fill in the same amount. Repeat after a certain km (>200km) to ensure most of the fluid will be new.

Not doing pan drop this time:
I am not doing pan drop because this requires much more ground clearance, I would take it to a shop to do it, maybe when the car reaches 100,000km. Or maybe at such time, I could install a shop style car lift in my garage. Also, a DIY pan drop will have a higher chance of leaks… as it involves around 20 screws and a gasket!

Drain and fill, 4 times.
My DIY process will involve 4 changes, as each time only 35% of the fluid was drained out, and a lot of the fluid cannot be drained and is stuck in various parts of the transmission, especially the torque converter.
I would drive at least 200km between each change, as I believe 200km is enough for the old and new fluid to mix.

Let’s do some maths:
I have drained 2 litres, out of a total of 5.7 litres. This means 3.7/5.7 = 65% of the old fluid is still there, now

1. First change, 0.65 <= where I am at.
2. Second change, 0.65 X 0.65 = 0.4225
3. Third change, 0.4225 X 0.65 = 0.275
4. Forth change, 0.275 X 0.65 = 0.178

After the 4th change, under the 80% rule, more than 80% of the fluid will be new, so I will stop there.
Also for the next changes, I might tilt the car more so more could be extracted. I will see if I can achieve the 80% after the 3rd change!
Going forward, I will do a CVT drain and fill every time I do an engine oil change. And I will use the dipstick to check the levels afterwards.

QnA :

Q: Why change the CVT fluid? Suzuki's schedule did not even mention a change?

A: It is a Jatco CVT, Nissan recommends changing CVT fluid approximately every 40,000 to 50,000 km. Literature on the web from CVT specialists suggests that 80% of the CVT failure is based on a lack of maintenance, especially fluid change.
I would consider my car is under heavy conditions, as I do

1. Many short trips, even cold ones.
2. 8.5 hours non stop driving from Sydney to Melbourne, a few times.
3. Sydney to Tasmania, this car has been to Bruny Island unsealed roads.

After looking and smelling the old fluid I certainly did not regret that!

Q: Anything odd during the process?
A: Yes, some other CVT7 will have the filler tube behind the drain bolt and would require a 10mm hex to remove, I did not have that filler tube. (the CVT was never serviced before). I am guessing since Suzuki provides a transmission fill hole (dipstick) then the filler tube is not required. Part of the cost-cutting measure.

Also, there suppose to be a washer (part no. 24824-54LSO) for the CVT fluid drain plug, but the washer is not there. Instead, the drain bolt looks like the replaceable ones. I might try to ply it out and fit a new washer next time.

Q: Any tips?
Tips 1: Drain bolt thread size is about 12mm, so I guess you can buy a washer for it, however, you will need to get a thin one, maybe 1mm, as the bolt is actually quite short.
Tips 2: The drain bolt can be opened by a 19mm socket (as indicated on the web), however, I have found it to be a bit slack, and a 17mm will not work, I will try an 18mm next time.


Afterthought:

• A single drain and fill (~ 2 litres) could take less than 30mins. However, the change of the filter would take over 2 hours for the first time, as removing and reinstalling the wheel arch liner takes a lot of time!
• I guess why car makers do not list CVT filter and fluid changes in the schedule because
  • Without service, it will probably still last until the warranty ends (100,000km)
    • But it will fail after that!
  • You cannot extract all fluid in one session, in Japan / China / HK they have recycling machines but it will require lots of oil (3 times the dry fill capacity) and still cannot extract all of the oil fluid.
  • Changing the filter will involve panel work, and there will be a lot of shop hours, and expensive, driving the listed servicing cost for the model, and the sales department will not be happy.
  • My method can still extract more than 80% of old fluid, however, requires 4 sessions, which is not feasible for a shop.
• CVT is better suited to small engines, Nissan fit the same model to larger SUVs and hence there are so many issues, whereas Suzuki uses the same CVT in small engine models, i.e. for their Swift sport with more engine power, they fit the 6 speed AT instead.

Photos from the process :

Getting everything ready!

My collection of panel screws, the removal tool on the right.

Wheel arch liner removed!

After the removal of the liner, the CVT7 is exposed.

Removing the filter housing…

Old and new filter, note the old filter has more surface area, so next time I will get a genuine one.

12mm thread size for the CVT fluid drain plug.

Oil and smelly fluid.

All cleaned and ready for a fill!

I use a sealey vac pump for 2 oil changes
Revert back to normal 3rd one