Welcome to the forum. My first question would be what exactly is damaged in your ECU, or how have you come to the conclusion that it is damaged?? Normally, unless your ECU sat under water, or was physically damaged, like in an accident, with a hammer, etc., the ‘damage’ to an ECU comes from a wiring issue where a short or similar has burned a specific component in the ECU. Just as with any computer, the ECU can often be repaired (the damaged component replaced) rather than replacing the whole ECU. That being said, ECU‘s can be replaced, and the replacement is often depending on the year of your vehicle, the type of transmission and what options are in your car. When replacing, it is best to replace with the same part number as the ECU that you currently have.

 

I haven’t tried a different part number, but it might work if it's compatible. You might need a reprogramming though.

 

Hey Bex, thnx for having me I appreciate the quick response on this forum, Ok a quick history… why I’m at this point, took my vehicle to have the engine washed and apparently after the fact it was discovered that little rubber plug that seals the vent hole at the top of the ECU wasn’t there which was also after an attempt to start a couple times

 

Guys I’ve tried everything I saw on YouTube I even changed both the “camshaft position sensor and the cam position sensor front and back of the engine and still no success at this point my only option is to replace the ECU, part number…..CT 33920-66JJ2

 

Hey guys, did a scan on the ECU today and got this

 

How do I rectify this??

 

So. Your codes don’t indicate that the ECU is damaged, but rather Thant the ECU is not communicating with the keyless entry fob, or that it’s the wrong key, or the key hasn’t been programmed, etc. Do you have an immobiliser??

 

Nothing after market…

 

The car came with its built in system

 

Hi Trini44. As Bex has mentioned the vehicle ECU is working. Your vehicle immobilizer does not validate the transponder chip inside the key fob. Have you tried your second key to see if things resolve?

 

Actually my second was misplaced years ago, but I also got a buddy to scan and clear the codes and I’m still not getting good results, still not starting

 

What actually not happening is…no spark from the coil packs to ignite the gas I am smelling….no 5volt on the pin of the coil packs to ignite plug

 

Guys at this point I’m ready to give up, or try to locate a replacement module that will work on this car, because I can’t seem to locate the original online

 

I’m still convinced that there’s something going on with that ECU besides being able to transmit codes

 

The immobiliser module its talking to the engine ecu which is why you gave no spark or fuel, thats how they work. You need the services of someone with a high end scan tool to do some reprogramming

Which you will also need if you replace the ecu as the car still won't start as none of the other modules will recognise a replaced ecu.

Start with reprogramming of the immobiliser and key.

 

Makes sense…. I would need someone to do a forensic scan and reprogram the unit, but it’s also strange that gas is spraying but no sparks are present, Ok thank you.

 

Hi guys, I took your advice and got a tech to sort out the immobilizer fault and that was cleared but apparently I still have issues with the physical ECU circuit board most likely water may have damaged a component on the motherboard, now I would have to take it to another technician to troubleshoot.

 

Not quite sure I understand…..the ’immobilizer fault’ was cleared, but the car still won’t start and you are still getting the same codes??

 

Hey Bex, to clarify, the results of the last scan revealed only 1 fault with the outside air temperature sensor, the scan before had 2 faults which was the immobilizer, that was sorted out and didn’t return on the scanner, and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firing

 

Hey Bex, to clarify, the results of the last scan revealed only 1 fault with the outside air temperature sensor, the scan before had 2 faults which was the immobilizer, that was sorted out and didn’t return on the scanner, and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firing

 

and that’s where I’m at presently, still just tumbling and not firing

And for those of you not familiar with "trini-speak", tumbling is cranking or turning over, so the engine is cranking but not firing.

 

Is it possible there could be water damage of a component in the ECU, and still able to transmit signals to the scanner? Something that’s not showing up on the scanner?

 

An ECU can work properly but lose communication with various circuits, due to wiring, grounds, etc. You are advising that your codes 1614 and 1616 are no longer present, so that the ECU is now communicating properly with the transponder/fob, etc., correct?? Of course, there may be other issues that are causing the engine not to start. Just for the heck of it, I would try spraying starter fluid into the intake, to see if it will start that way.

 

Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying the both codes are no longer present but I’m still not able to start, also I’ve already tried spraying the intake, but my problem isn’t fuel, its the absence of a spark from the coil pack to the spark plugs, I’m not getting fire

 

Can anyone direct me at this point as to what should I do? I would really like to have another opinion, maybe changing the ECU, because I’ve been searching the entire WWW, to find the part number of my existing but everywhere doesn’t seem to have any, part number…..CT 33920-66JJ2 if there’s a replacement I can use can someone send me a link, I really don’t know what else to do.

 

Maybe we should start at the beginning? Did this vehicle ever start for you before the transponder codes? Is the vehicle n ew to you? Have you done a compression test on the engine? Noid test on the injectors? There are a few tests that should be done before assuming the issue is the ECU….considering that if it’s not the ECU, and you go to the difficulty and expense of find one, only to find that the engie still won’t start. I would consider the ECU to be the last thing to look at when diagnosing, particularly as it’s throwing codes…????

 

And I agree with you to have a step by step series of test done as a diagnostic approach, before jumping to conclusions, ok I will search for someone who doesn’t mind making a house call instead of trying to have the vehicle wrecked

 

I think you've said you have fuel but no spark - do you have power to the ignition coils - there are three wires at the coil connectors - ground the meter negative and back probe the connector with the ignition on, what do you get on the three wires?

 

Hi Fordem, I’m glad you ask, although I mention that in a previous post, but yes I did check the pins of the ignition coil terminals and my results was 12vdc from ground on one side but no 5vdc on the other side and from what I was told the 5vdc is important to create the ignition pulse to trigger the spark plugs

 

Take it to the Dealer or an authorised Suzuki repair facility for a proper diagnosis.