I think the spring you have circled in the photo is the return spring for the brake pedal. I'm not sure the clutch has a return spring on the pedal assembly, I can't tell from the manual and haven't checked under my dashboard yet.

I don't know how to replace the brake return spring, it is not mentioned in the service manual. The diagram from the service manual seems to show the spring on the brake pedal assembly.

 

The clutch spring is directly above the switch noted as #1

 

Best I can find I'm afraid..

 

@annfan The brake pedal has its own return spring. It is still intact. I can still use the clutch pedal as the master cylinder provide enough bounce/return.

Thanks for the picture @Darrell. That's a mad picture finding skill. It does not show how it links up together, but I can see where the return spring suppose to go and the correct positioning. I have a feeling it's going to be tough to slot it in ?

I will send update picture later.

On a different topic. I think the clutch hydraulic is loosing pressure. Today I found it hard to shift to 1st gear. Time to call a mechanic.

 

On a different topic. I think the clutch hydraulic is loosing pressure. Today I found it hard to shift to 1st gear. Time to call a mechanic.

Welcome to the world of getting a 3G clutch bled. Reverse Pressure bleeding is recommended as the bleed hose from the slave cylinder / throwout bearing assembly exits the bottom of the unit for some unknown only to the engineers reason. Where does the air sit? at the top of course.....

 

Reading at some of forum thread here. Looks like in order to access the slave bleeder valve (from the bottom of the car), transmission removal is required. Is that right? that's insane.

 

I can get to mine easily with a ring spanner (wrench in americanese) but if its LHD it might be a bit of a battle.

Inject fluid using a pressurised pump from the slave cylinder end, these pressure bleeding kits are readily available from most parts stores.

The idea is to inject fluid and push the air up from the throwout bearing and out of the master cylinder

 

I had a similar problem with my clutch failing to fully disengage making gear engagement difficult on my 2015 GV. The clutch pedal then went to the floor and stayed there but was readily fixed with repositioning the return spring (shown in your picture) being the hardest part.. The clutch master cylinder is mounted on the engine side of the firewall and actuated via a push-rod coming out above the accelerator pedal. The clutch pedal is mounted on a long pivot rod running on nylon bushes through the pedal mounting framework coming out to the right side of the brake pedal ending in splines. The short activating lever for the master cylinder push-rod comes off the bottom of a split circular fitting that slides over the splines held in place by a pinch bolt. If the bolt loosens the fitting slides off the end of the clutch rod either partly (with the clutch not fully disengaging) or fully with the pedal going to the floor. The pedal can then be moved some distance to the left (watching that the right nylon bush doesn't get pushed out of position when the rod is pushed back to the right). The pedal only has to move and inch or two to the left for the return spring to fall out of place.

The short bent arm of the return spring goes into the small hole on the right side of the pedal (with the small nylon bush) pushed through from the right side and with the spring body on the right of the pedal then the other end has to be hooked onto the framework behind. If the pedal springs back OK you have done this correctly. This requires some finger force with the pedal slid sightly to the left and not fully to the right, Then make sure it cannot slide to the left again while the fitting on the right end is fully slid back on the splines and pinched up tight. If the fitting has completely come off the end of the splined rod the rod may have to be moved back a bit to the left to get it on, taking care not to let the return spring drop out of place. The correct position on the splines is obtained by rotating the fitting until the clutch actuating rod is fully out then slowly rotate back the the other way until the splines engage The. splines are fairly coarse so generally things only line up in one position.

 

Hi @Platypup,

Wow. Thanks for detailed instruction ?. I get what you mean (I have been starring at each components for hours trying to guess how everything fits together) and finally the return spring is installed.
It was hard to push in the spring into the 2 slots, each with small nylon bushes. I am sure those 2 slots are the right one, because there were residual grease in it.

The way I did it, was by sliding the clutch pedal rod 1/4 way to the right and aligned the spring ends into those 2 slots. Then I slid the clutch rod all the way to the right. Everything fell to its place.

I rotated the clutch arm on the right hand side near acceleration pedal to make the clutch bite higher. So I can at least drive this to a mechanic to get the clutch + brake inspected.

For future reference, this is the picture of the other side of clutch rod, near acceleration pedal.

 

I just had a check on the rear position of my return spring. There is a hole in the bracket at the back with the spring entering from the left. Unfortunately things are a bit confined there to get a decent photo.

 

Thank you very much for looking into this. It is very confined there. I could not take a picture of the return spring after installation either.

 

Esuki, from your picture of the right hand end of the clutch pivot rod the splined end does not seem to protrude much past the pinch fitting. Mine has much more of the splined end of the rod free of the pinch fitting. Check there is no sideways slide play in the clutch. If there is the pinch fitting has not been pushed on all the way with increased risk of it coming loose.

 

Also be careful rotating the pinch fitting from its original position on the splines. I tried this thinking this was the only adjustment for the clutch engage position. However by moving it only one spline position it was engaging far too high and likely not fully with the possibility of slip and rapid wear on the release bearing.