[Max]

The front diff is still untouched.

You're saying disconnect the prop shaft and both diff assembly mounts, then slide the entire diff assembly forward and let it hang from the axles. Correct?
Leave the axles attached then?

Column to rack steering shaft stays in place too?

What's this trick Larry?

It sounds crazy to attempt to remove the exhaust manifolds Beagle. :huh:
Engine clearance appears OK and I've read nothing suggesting their removal.

 

[beagle..t]

removing exhaust manifolds makes it easier to get motor back in, it was for me but I had no help

 

[lumpylarry]

I've never taken off manifolds or steer shaft.
You doing this on a hoist or the ground?
That would determine if I'd suggest pulling the diff right out..

 

[lumpylarry]

And for the radiator, don't fight with the lower rad hose.
Just unbolt the pipe at T-stat housing.
2 bolt that hold fuel line and one at the bottom
It all come up together.

 

[beagle..t]

I've never taken off manifolds or steer shaft.
You doing this on a hoist or the ground?
That would determine if I'd suggest pulling the diff right out..

ground with cherry picker

 

[lumpylarry]

In that case I wouldn't completely remove the diff.
Just do like you described above. Obviously the little rubber feed hose needs to come off too

If you do want to remove completely,
Step 1. Pop the passenger cv out of the diff and tie a rag or something in the gap so it can't pop back in. If you move anything else or if it pops back in, you never get apart without breaking the circlip.
Don't know they do this, it's the only car I've seen this happen to,
But I just learned that if you do it first it comes out so easy.

Once that's done, then I would unbolt the drivers side axle, prop shaft and mounts.
Then grab the diff and slide off the passenger shaft.
Note, both axle stay in the car.

 

[Max]

I think I'm with you Larry.

 

[ninja99]

mine were also the 2.5 that i removed from 2 vehicles and i used a cherry picker. just keep the hook on the cherry picker as close to manifold as you can cause i had barely enough room with it fully up to swing engine over rad support. even with that i had to tilt engine by hand to get it over cradle and i had let 1/2 the air out of the front tires too. i had unbolted dif from the driver side but it may have hung down enough to clear oil pan like the other poster had said. just tie it up just in case the pas side axle comes out. if you didn't drain it, it will be all over the place at this time. i had 1 pas axle that stayed in and 1 that came out as it was hanging. don't forget to remove that piece on the driver side rear near firewall for the exhaust sensor cause it will hit top lip on firewall if you don't when you lift engine to clear the mount bolts. can't remember the name of it now but i believe you (Max) had told me about it before when i was removing my engines. it has the plunger in it to aid on cold start ups. i unbolted the drive shaft from rear of front dif so that way it doesn't pull out of the transfer case and puke oil all over the place when you pull dif ahead for clearance from pan.

 

[Max]

Thanks.

 

[Max]

Hit a snag...

Trying to remove the last (top two) bellhousing bolts. I can get to the one closest to the starter, but the other has no clean access.

Extensions and ratchet just spring. Only 3/8" drive, which doesn't help. A 1/2" drive set-up would offer a better chance.

Dropping the tail end of the trans to tilt the whole mess should allow for a LONG clear shot to them, but I'm taking a different approach from the engine bay. I removed the throttle-body / EGR portion of the intake at the back as the engine will not be used again anyway. Just need to remove the crossover coolant pipe section and then I should be able to get a box-end 17MM on the last two bolts from above and the ability to get a cheater pipe on the wrench. Better than laying flat on your back with minimal body clearance and little mechanical tool advantage.

All this in order to have the trans remain in place. Pulling the whole package may be easier. Don't know yet for sure.

Taking a Holiday trip to see the kids. See you in a week.

 

[lumpylarry]

Yea. I bought a 4 foot 1/2" extension from snap-on just for that job. (Big$$$)
That with a wobble socket did the trick.
Happy holidays and merry Christmas!!

 

[Max]

Yup and same to you and the rest of the members too Larry!

 

[Max]

After a week long Holiday break to include a trip to Florida, I've finally unfastened all of the bell-housing bolts.

I removed the last inaccessible bolts (yellow tagged two in the upper section) by removing the back portion of the intake plenum and the coolant crossover manifold (arrow).



Just several electrical connections to undo along with the motor mount nuts to remove now!

 

[ninja99]

there sure isn't a whole lot of room to do what you need to do in that engine bay. i pulled 1 of mine out with trans left in, and pulled the other 1 out as a pair and i found for me it is better and quicker to pull them both at once. it is amazing how quick you can get the trans removed when they are both sitting on the garage floor with an electric 1/2 inch impact gun for the bell housing bolts. that was my best tool for this entire job hands down anywhere i could use it. that sealant suzuki used on all those bolts sure makes it a challenge. glad you got them out.

 

[Max]

Ah HA!

Check out this clutch actuating arm. See anything funky?



Disc looks great given the mileage.

This is amazing. No appreciable wear or fatigue noted on the flywheel. Thinking that I may just check it for run-out, lightly sand and reuse as is!

Engine came out with relative ease. Positioned the floor jack to support the trans, but did have to wiggle / pry from below (at the engine to trans mating gap) to advance the engine off the two long studs btwn the trans & engine.

Pilot bearing feels rough, although the trans input shaft LOOKS good. Need to replace the berry and measure the shaft.

 

[lumpylarry]

Yup. Replaced a bunch of those arms.
Usually after they punch right through.

 

[Max]

Lotta' work for a $30 dollar release fork.

Flywheel checks out fine as is. Even the original machining marks are still visible.

 

[Max]

Landed the replacement engine. Need to hook up all of the related parts and pieces.

Extending of the crane boom and choking-up on the chain to a short distance provided enough total lift to clear the front sheet metal. The engine combo (pan bottom to intake top) is 33" tall!

Existing hoisting eyes noted here...

 

[Max]

It's alive!

No leaks, squeaks, smoke, nor foreign noises!

I'll sum it up later with some tips and tricks (lessons learned).

 

[aquanaut20]

Congrats, long live...

...Philip