Hi, the only major difference should be the internal piston size. I have noticed there are a few other differences eg. locations of some sensors on H25 vs H27, but that might also depend on what year model H25/ H27 engines you are comparing. The update (2004 on) XL-7's also have different wiring looms (from what I've found) and run a more powerful version of the H27.

I'd be thinking the engine should bolt straight in - the main issue will be getting it to run. You might be able to get away with bolting the H25 sensors onto to a "bare" H27 engine and using your original ECU- but it would be a matter of experimenting.

I do know of a place in Adelaide that's supposed to have some "new" H27 engines that were removed from new shape GV's that were written off.

 

xl7 20td 2005 help!!!!!!!

hi could any one please help me out!!! could do with a pics of an engine the same of mine!!! there is a breather pipe which comes of the main hose of the intercoler and my small breather pipe has broke off!! have checked everywhere to see where it has broke from but cannot find it would grately appreciate it people any pics to mark.mccullough@rocketmail.com
thanks

 

hi could any one please help me out!!! could do with a pics of an engine the same of mine!!! there is a breather pipe which comes of the main hose of the intercoler and my small breather pipe has broke off!! have checked everywhere to see where it has broke from but cannot find it would grately appreciate it people any pics to mark.mccullough@rocketmail.com
thanks

Hello, you'd be better off starting a new topic/ post.

I can't help because we didn't get diesel XL-7's in Australia.

 

Oh, but this might be of use? http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...ms.com/suzuki-vitara-grand-vitara-xl-7/30456-guinea-pig-wanted-test-new-xl.html

 

thanks

thanks verymuch david but still lost lol breaking my heart it is lol

 

2.7 in 2.5 out

Picked up the motor and box

Not sure what year it is out of has a auto with transfer box on the end of it.
The intakes look the same till you look closer.

The 2.7 intake has 52D stamped all over the place on the manifold casting and fuel rail has a combined idle control and throttle butterfly, has Mikuni on the workings.
Air metering not sure could have been on the airbox or Map as there is a sensor on the manifold.

The 2001 GV 2.5 has 77 stamped on places has a combined throttle and bypass airflow meter, cold start fast idle working direct on the throttle buttlerfly, ECU idle control mounted on the main link manifold casting. Has Hitachi stamped on the workings.

Both engines have the same casting stamp on the heads

Next step is to start pulling out the 2.5 and compare the all the bits

 

Great to see you're going ahead with it- it will be interesting to see how you go.

Did you get the loom and ECU with it?

The airflow meter should be hanging off the air filter box.

 

Have 95% of the wiring loom no ECU and no airflow meter.
The cost to get a 2nd hand ECU and airflow and then finding the right one as still have not pinned down what model and year the engine and trans are out of.

Cheers
Steve

 

Let the fun begin

OK 2.5 is out now we can start comparing bits.
The manual 2.5 flywheel with spigot bearing fits stright on to the end of a 2.7 auto engine.
The 2.7 clutch is 236mm the 2.5 clutch is 225 I dont know if the pressure plate OD is different but the 2.5 is right to the edge of the flywheel, dont have a 2.7 clutch to compare to just going off specs.
Intake manifolds are different but mix and matchable.
The throttle body bridge pipe will swap between the 2.5 and 2.7 main mainfold section.
My 2.7 has a butterfly valve with the front bridge pipe, but the bride pipe has been changed not the mainfold so they will swap with each other.
The main manifold is slightly different 2.7 slightly lower a few mm intake pipes slightly different. when the throttle bridge pipe is boltted on you have to use the throttle cable hold point has to come off the the throttle but once in place can be refitted.

BIG NEWS BIG DIFFERENCE FUEL INJECTORS ARE DIFFERENT
Apart from the length but the FLOW RATE took them in and had them flow tested.
2.7 WHITE 30sec test 65cc
2.5 GREEN TOP 30 Sec test 75cc
DONT FIT WHITE INJECTORES TO H25A unless you are using the complete 2.7 efi unit ecu and all
The length you just use the correct fuel rail to match the injectors

Throttle butteryflys are slightly different the 2.7 is round 60mm the 2.5 55mm

Am also going to fit a oil cooler to the system found a mercuriser diesel thermostatic oil cooler diverter sandwich block that has even got the right thead, need to use a bigger sealed oil filter easy enough.

Lots of crap in the old intake manifold suspect from the EGR valve.
So far all good
Still no idea what year or what trans was hanging on the back the numbers dont seem to come up anywhere

Broke the TUFF clutch while trying to fit was tapping it onto the dowels and a pin fell out, seems they forgot to pean it over, glade I found it now still stuffed my weekend up

Cheers
Steve

 

Some photos

My new motor had been left in the weather so finding a coil had been missing for a while did not impress me.
Taking the cam covers off did make me very happy

 

Where did you get the engine from? It looks nice and clean inside. The throttle body etc all looks the same as my 2004 model- there are some pics of mine here: http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-2001-2006-xl-7/26751-reducing-initial-start-up-rev-spike.html

Keep the updates coming. Hopefully it keeps going smoothly.

 

High start idle

Hi Murcod
The motor was a Ebay special had to drive down to Sydney to pick it up.
Inside is great makes up for the mess outside.
What trans are you running on your XL manual or auto still haven't pinned down what this one is yet.

I have one up on you on the throttle the 2.5 has a adjustable waxstack so you can play around with it. Found getting rid of the viscous fan made a big difference. No longer sounded like a plan taking off on start up

Fitting my old 2.5 cam covers had to clean the gum out from inside tried all sorts of stuff but found the best stuff Bam bathroom cleaner.
Tried carb cleaner, brake clean, parts wash, actone, all did a little but the Bam kicked butt.

Cheers

 

Mine's a five speed auto. I'm not an auto trans fan, but this one is really good and matches the engine characteristics well. I drove a manual before buying it and reckon the auto is a better thing to drive.

It would be interesting to know if you've picked up the "more powerful" series II engine or not?

The viscous fan has been removed on mine too (you've probably seen the thread?) it makes a nice improvement to the throttle response.

 

Auto trans ???

Hi Murcod

The valley cover was the same style as mine small black not covering the intake manifold completely
Even if the engine is the more powerfull gen 2 I dont think I will see it with all 2.5 bits on including the cast exhaust manifolds.

The trans that was hanging off the end seems to have no numbers that any one can make sense of.
When you move the slector it seems to only have 3 gears has no kick down cable and a few big plugs sticking out of it, the transfer box has a cast 53J
What ever that means.

Any ideas on what it is?

 

It wouldn't surprise me if it's the 5 spd!

No kickdown cable is a good start, as is the large electrical plugs. AFAIK the four speeds did have a kick down cable and wasn't "electronically controlled"?

With the selector postitions (from memory) mine goes P-R-N-D-3-2-L . You can't manually select "4" - except (sort of) by using the "overdrive" lockout button on the shifter. There's also a "Power/ Normal" switch on the centre console.

Oh, the dipstick looks the same (but don't know if the 4spds use the same item?) I haven't really paid much attention to what the rest of the trans casing looks like.

 

No oil pressure

Had a little bit of drama could not get oil pressure.
Clamped a hose to the centre and filled it with oil so the crank would get a little lube and then cranked it over some more till the it started flowing refitting the filter and all good

The oil cooler plate fits well and also moves the filter out for better access currently have a short filter on, after 500km will change oil and filter again.
Can get filters of the same spec up to 140mm long.

Had to change the cam sensor as well the H27A has a steel top the H25A has a black plastic top, as with everything something inside is different and will not mix, no spark, now there is life just have to finsh all the mods and put her back together.

Cheers
Steve

 

That transmission is clearly an automatic.

 

Yes, we weren't confused if it was an auto or not!

The question is - is it a 4spd or 5spd auto?

 

All go !!!

The new motor has done a nearly 200km, thats distance not speed.
Running very well almost seems a little tight going to give it another oil change and run some syn 5w/30.

Sold my old engine and did a deal of fitting it into a 98 GV auto, as always in the new GV it is as quiet as no cold rattle at all, maybe the 3 oil changes I done before hand finally did the job and flushed everything out.

Found the 98 block, still a H25A does not have a knock sensor fitted or a hole to fit one.

Take care all
Steve

 

I take it they've been "easy" kilometres? It will be interesting to see if you notice much power difference.

(You should try to find proper XL-7 diffs as well- they've got lower gearing and should get it moving off the line quickly!)

 

The plan is to give her a little lift and fit some 70 series wheels to give it some longer legs.
No real power increase yet but still playing.

Cheers
Steve

 

Still going well

The H27A is still going well and loves the premium fuel with a little added timing.
Still looking for a exhaust system so far a good one off is going to cost round $2000.00.
Not sure if a LHD will work as the steering shaft will be in the way on one side.

Cheers
Steve

 

You know you need to do this Steve http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...om/suzuki-vitara-grand-vitara-xl-7/32978-h25-headers-extractors-available.html?

 

Hi the headers look ok from outdoor auto but the header pipes are not matched length, all good for fitting in place of stock manifolds but for best tune they should be the same length.
Outdoor auto as made the parts to replace each part of the stock system so you can replace each part at different times, not a complete setup.
Cheers
Steve