Assuming that you were in 2WD, that is normal - the vehicle has an open rear differential - if one wheel has no traction, it spins and you go nowhere.

Now if you were in 4WD (which you don't mention), then I'd say you have a front freewheel engagement problem.

So - the next step depends on the answer - the question is - were you in 2WD or 4WD?

 

Thanks fordem, your are right, my truck was in 2wd mode

I left my truck in a parking lot for one week. Today, I tried to back up my truck on a fare solid snow, but after moved half foot, the truck got stuck. Just the passenger rear wheel spin.

As you might know, my front diff couldn't engaged, so it is always 2wd. When investigating the 4wd, I hoist the truck and I am sure both rear wheel were spinning.

How come the drive side rear wheel doesn't spin? I really need it spin. As the only passager rear wheel spin, it made the snow underneath lower and lower, then later on the just the passager rear wheel spin in the air.

Seems I need to get some information on how 2wd works. I really got confused: my gv becomes 2wd after fault front diff, now it turns to be 1WD, could it turn to be a 0WD truck?

P.S. I did see an automatic GV had only driver side front wheel and passenger side rear wheel spinning when stuck in snow. really don't understand.

 

Differentials (Open, LSD and so on)
Friction dictates which one doesn't spin. In four wheel drive you only really have the security of one wheel spinning on each (the front and the rear) axle at anytime without a locker.

 

Thanks so much for the article, well, I will read it

when I get time tomorrow. Let's discuss after that.

Today, my friends and I got confused when seeing the truck just stay in so nice surface. Hope will undersanf after reading the article.

 

There is no better explanation of how a differential works than this:

That's why there's "limited slip" clutch packs and "lockers" that people put in for more hard core off-roading.

 

Thanks so much narnwv! I will watch the movie

I will start to work on the front diff on my truck on this weekend.

 

Even with your 4WD working you can still get one wheel spinning at the front and rear at the same time (with the standard diffs.)

PS: If one rear wheel is spinning, lightly applying the handbrake may help to transfer torque to the wheel with grip. Obviously you need to be careful when doing this as the rear brakes can hot doing it.

 

Thanks so much, David, I will fix the diff first

and even will practise base on your tip use hand break.

 

anybody know why my gv's driver side rear wheel locked?

as I mentioned before, the driver side rear wheel on my 1999 gv 2.5 V6 doesn't spin in winter time. today I just fixed my front diff and tried to test it while the whole gv hoisted. I found the driver side rear wheel spin at first time and then got locked.

I shut down the engine and spin the driver side rear wheel by hand, but it can only move a little bit and then hit something and stop, inspite of I apply the hand break or not. feel like a lock on it but a little bit loose gap. This might be the reason why this wheel just doesn't spin on snow.

I didn't drive this gv since it stuck in my parking lot in winter, but I moved a little bit in order to fix my front diff. I didn't hear any noise when I drive to move it. I also appied brake in order to trigger its spin, but ABS light turn on.

is something wrong with my rear brake or rear diff? Thanks!

 

You've probably got a brake issue. Jack up the rear and try to spin each wheel. If one is bound up, pull the tire then drum and I think you'll find that the shoes are too tight due to an e-brake cable, wheel cylinder or shoe linkage issue. Check for fluid leakage (brake and gear oil) as well, while you are in there.

Once the drum is off you have access to the axle end (free of any brake interaction) to then try and turn it. That will ID whether you have a brake or a rear (axle or diff bearing) problem. This is under the assumption that the opposite side brake / wheel is up and free spinning.

This will help too...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-199.../1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/20222-brake-shoe-install-lessons-learned.html

 

thanks so much Max! and you are always so helpful

I will follow your instructions and see what will output.

 

Hi Max, yes you are right, it is a break issue

looks like a wheel cylinder issue, as I released the e-cable but it was still hard to remove the drum, and all the springs are ok. I fogot to check break fluid. What is the gear oil? the rear diff fluid? can gear oil effect break? or you are refering to read diff only on gear oil?

I still feel lucky as the axle is free to spin, so no rear diff issue. I just rebuilded the front diff and replace a defective actuator and it was not easy. It was hard to lift the front diff to place and mounted those bolts on the frame. I also replaced the air pump, as the old one can not hold the breath. A friend told me one valve inside the pump might stuck.

The actuator has a design issue, and it is very easy to leak especially when weather is hot or cold. The new parts has be redesigned to fix the problem, but why there was no recall on this? I am wondering whether I could contact Suzuki for my loss as this is really a design problem.

here are the pictures:

 

btw, there is a lose on wheel cylinder

e.g. the other side wheel will be totally seized when break was applied. well, this wheel will be 'locked' , but still can be shift a little bit at the wheel cylinder, this is not a smooth shift, but seems a loose part inside the wheel cylinder.

do I need to replace the wheel cylinder? Thanks!

 

What is the gear oil?

In my post I was referring to looking for gear oil or brake fluid in the brake drum / shoe area (from a leak). If you are dry, that's good!

As far as wheel cylinders being a problem...if the pistons inside don't retract all of the way (due to internal corrosion or seizing in their bores) THAT can cause the shoes to stay in contact with the drum and bind thinks up. Usually when wheel cylinders get THAT bad, you can peal back the boot and brake fluid will rum out or at least you'll see some fluid from leakage.

The other thing to do (if you suspect the wheel cylinder isn't free to retract) is to alternately tap on the shoes to force them back into the wheel cylinder bores. If then you have clearance / no drum rub on a test drum fit, you can say that the wheel cylinder is bad.

Oh. And I don't quite understand your last post about the opposite side brake set and "lose on wheel cylinder", unless that you mean that the springs aren't pulling the shoe ends back securely to engage against the wheel cylinder end linkage / rods? :huh:

Bottom line...IF everything appears correct (wheel cylinder retracting, no leaks, shoes and drum OK, and linkage connected per the pics I referenced earlier), I'd reassemble everything with no to VERY slight shoe to drum contact and adjust the e-brake to at least 4-5 clicks when applied, no less.

It is also recommended to place the tiniest amount of silicon grease where the several metal portions of the brake shoes contact the backing plate. This aids in shoe retraction.

This (red) example area for clarification...

 

Thank Max for your analysis

Oh. And I don't quite understand your last post about the opposite side brake set and "lose on wheel cylinder", unless that you mean that the springs aren't pulling the shoe ends back securely to engage against the wheel cylinder end linkage / rods? :huh:

The loose or shaking is on this 'bad' wheel in the picture, and ts pistons can be 'shaking' to each side inside the cylinder bore. That's why the 'bad' wheel can be turn a little bit when it 'locked'. While, in the 'good' wheel on the opposite side, the pistons stay firmly in the cylinder bore, and you can not shake them.

I will check further and do the testing and get back to you. What I will do is tap the shoes into the cylinder bores until the drum can be fit in, and then wait for a while, if I can fit in the drum again, then the cylinder is bad.

 

pistons can be 'shaking' to each side inside the cylinder bore

I think that you are describing a condition whereby the tops of the shoe bracket are not collapsing tightly onto the wheel cylinder posts. THAT is normally a return spring weakness OR the linkages / adjuster are not assembled correctly.

Also, revisit my Brakes Lessons Learned ref, in particular this portion with its pic above it...

http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-199.../1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/20222-brake-shoe-install-lessons-learned.html

If you do not have BKT#12 adjusted (teeth engagement) set properly, the partner inter-connecting bracket (shown to the left of the number 3#) that runs to the UPPER adjuster won't allow the shoes to fully retract. Your first indication that something isn't correct is during shoe installation when the upper adjuster (#4) "star wheel" has to be COMPLETELY backed off (shortened) in order to get the drum on. It SHOULD be ran out with about 2-6 threads showing (depending on drum wear or if they've been "turned", thus inceasing the drum's inner diameter).

 

Yes Max, Your are exactly right!

I just shorten the adjuster and put the drum back, and adjust the e-cable base on the procedure, then the problem gone. when appling park break, this is no 'shaking' problem any more. start the engine while the truck hoisted and the ABS light turn off very fast. Both rear wheel spin, swith to 4L and 4H, the lovely green 4WD light turn on firmly, and both front wheel spin as well!

land the truck and test drove on the back road, the truck runs just smooth and lovely, no noise! The rest is to buy a set of nice winter tire and be prepared to towe my friends' AWD cars from snow! lol

Thanks Max and other friends' help in the passed half years, and this ticket could be closed!

 

Let us hope that the issue is resolved then!