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In looking this up, it appears that the 99 Tracker uses an entirely different system than the earlier cars. You would need, actually, to post in the Suzuki Grand Vitara link on the left, which is for all newer cars from 1999 on. Found this on the internet, but as I said, I am totally unfamiliar with the newer cars:

The 3rd gen trackers don't use auto hubs, the axles are engaged inside the diff by the vacuum pump, so if you just put manual hubs on, your front axles won't turn under power, you need to either put a locker in the front and go with the manual hubs, or replace the vacuum pump. You could also swap in an older front end, but that is a much bigger project.

So, it appears that its a bit more complicated than the cars on this side of the forum. Ah, that's progress for you. Try asking in the GV forum.
 
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What all is necessary for converting auto hubs to manual hubs on a 99 chevy tracker??
As Bex said, the 99s use a different 4wd setup on the front axle than the 89-98 trackicks do.
People that convert to the 89-98 4wd system remove the drive flanges and replace them with manual lockout hubs (or auto hubs), put a third from an 89-98 trackick in (that has a matching gear ratio as your rear axle).
Once this is done, the vacuum pump behind the front bumper can be disregarded, since all it did was engage the third, when the shifter is shifted into 4wd. But since you have removed and replaced the air-actuated third, there is no need for the pump.
 
Auto manual hub swap

So if I read this correct all I have to do is unbolt old autos and bolt on manual ones.. no snap ring? Nothing.. ? I found a clean working set locally of donor Zuni..
 
Correct.

From what I understand it is the Sammy that you have to undo a snap ring. TracKicks are different. Unbolt and slide the whole hub off.

Be sure and get the bolts and hardware with the manual hubs as they are probably different.

Edit: the above information was in response to the previous post. The information is for 1989 to 1998 Trackicks ONLY.
 
So I would be able to disgaurd the pump in the front bumper as well?
So if I read this correct all I have to do is unbolt old autos and bolt on manual ones.. no snap ring? Nothing.. ? I found a clean working set locally of donor Zuni..
Let me dispel any miss information of the 99 Tracker 4x4 system..

As supplied by the factory, the 4x system is comprised of a transfer case(Manual), a front driveshaft, front differential (AIR operated), 2 front short shafts and locked drive (front wheels to short shafts).

The 99 Tracker does not have
  • auto locking hubs.
  • Vacuum operated diff..

This is how it works,
Manual shift T/C to 4x,
the pump motor is activated and supplies ~7psi air pressure to the bellows in front diff, this locks the diff to the short shafts and drives the wheels..

Installing manual hubs will not eliminate the need for the air pump, but in the unlocked position will free the wheel rotation from the short shafts.

Now depending on what the issue and final disposition, there are ways to accomplish without replacing the front diff or installing a locker..

... Philip
 
So if I read this correct all I have to do is unbolt old autos and bolt on manual ones.. no snap ring? Nothing.. ? I found a clean working set locally of donor Zuni..
That is correct. Note that manual lockout hubs use bolts with cone washers on them. So you want to get the bolts and cone washers as well.
 
Ok.. the reason I doubted was my locker will not turn all the way to lock position..
Sounds like you need to disassemble, clean, lightly lube and reassemble the manual hubs. You could just try taking apart and lubing the dial part, but if it is needing serviced, then probably the whole hub needs to be taken apart and cleaned and lubed.
You should be able to find some pics/diagrams on google, for how the hubs are assembled. But I would still recommend only working on one at a time, that way you can use the other one for reference, if you can't figure out how to put it back together.
Note that when you pop the dial out of the end cap, there will be a tiny little ball and spring that should be in the dial part. The ball "clicks" in the detents as you turn the dial to free and lock. They can go flying, when you pop the pieces apart, so you want to be careful and not lose either part.

It could also be the hub is put together wrong and not letting the dial turn all the way.
 
Ok.. the reason I doubted was my locker will not turn all the way to lock position..
They either need servicing or you may have the junk/plastic corporate lockers, that are not Aisin, and may be broken. Can you post a pic? If I remember correctly, I don't think they use the cone washers.
 
First thing in the am I'm taking the dial off.. it worked great before install.. I'm thinking something may be hitting.. first install I missaligned the the metal cap.. and one of the he teeth were catching.. so I'm hoping it something that simple.. thanks for all the help..
 
Looks like my car....same rims, same paint job, same problem with the top in that it no longer fits in the side clips at the tailgate......
 
Ok guys.. just walked in door from a little test drive..:D^_^:D thanks for all the encouragement.. I disassembled the front hubs.. learned a valuable lesson..( got to start taking pictures.. ) ok.. I learned that I was alligning the the bolt holes wrong.. I learned to rotate the holes in the direction of the spring to maintain tightness .. I rotated to other direction ant it cause it to not be able to rotate fully.. now they work flawless.. now to determine if my ratios match.thats for my other thread..
 
Hopefully, while disassembling them, you cleaned them and lubed them as well - without overpacking them with grease, etc.....Glad you got it sorted.
 
What are the torque settings for the bolts on the manual hubs and the smaller screws on the cap?

Thanks!
 
The FSM advises that the hub assembly bolts should be torqued to 18 ft/lbs and the bolts on the cover are 106 INCH/lbs.....
 
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