If you have a big enough yard and an understanding partner,it's best to have a spare Tracker/sidekick/sunrunner.Nice thing about trackers is,they,like old GMs don't change too much from year to year.I can safely say I've saved thousands by having a parts car,just on gas.

 

Thanks Ranger and BEX!!! I just bought those bolts from EBAY. What a deal. $20.95 total! Soon as I get the bolts I can install the New Aisin Manual Hubs. Just last Saturday I installed the Steering shock dampener from LowRange. Wow, what a difference in driving. It is much sturdier up front and steering is firmer, nice! Now waiting for those bolts....

 

Hooray, rep points for everyone and beers too! :lol:

 

Yes,
I checked my AUTO HUBS on saturday...it does not use cone washers.

 

I see what you are saying...some probably are different. I have to go back to what ranger said:
"You can, but I wouldn't. You may get noise and probably premature wear. I would continue to use the autos until you locate the cone washers."
In my case Ranger is right. I took one bolt out and there is now way I would run Aisin Manual hubs with my bolts from the auto hubs. They do not even fit snug within the hole...i see major problems down the road if I was to use the AUTO bolts with the AISIN MANUAL Hubs..

 

Vitara vs sidekick

Hello everyone !

I broke my sidekick frame this week too much canadian snow plowing action. So today i got my self a nice 1999 2dr soft top 4wd M/T Vitara but most importantly , no rust !! anyway is has Auto lockings hub and i allready dislike them ! Can i take my stock sidekick ( 98 ) manual locking hubs ( which by the way if anyone is interested have NO cone washers ) and just bolt them in my vitara ( 99 ) and be on my way ?? yes right? they are the model which have the big washer to compress the locking spring not the 4 pins socket type. What brand are the original oem hubs on my kick ? What are the difference between vitara and sidekick i looked all over but did not find many awnsers , any link would be great since i want to swap parts ¸ like my control arms , struts trany diffs etc Sorry for so many question , just very excited about my new purchase !!!

 

What all is necessary for converting auto hubs to manual hubs on a 99 chevy tracker??

 

As Bex said, the 99s use a different 4wd setup on the front axle than the 89-98 trackicks do.
People that convert to the 89-98 4wd system remove the drive flanges and replace them with manual lockout hubs (or auto hubs), put a third from an 89-98 trackick in (that has a matching gear ratio as your rear axle).
Once this is done, the vacuum pump behind the front bumper can be disregarded, since all it did was engage the third, when the shifter is shifted into 4wd. But since you have removed and replaced the air-actuated third, there is no need for the pump.

 

I don't know if there was any change in the hubs between 1998 and 1999, but if not, then all you need to do is to unscrew and remove the auto hubs and screw in the manual ones. The earlier cars used cone washers on the manual hubs (possibly not on the autos) so you would need to have these as well - particularly if you are picking up replacements from a junkyard.

 

So I would be able to disgaurd the pump in the front bumper as well?

 

In looking this up, it appears that the 99 Tracker uses an entirely different system than the earlier cars. You would need, actually, to post in the Suzuki Grand Vitara link on the left, which is for all newer cars from 1999 on. Found this on the internet, but as I said, I am totally unfamiliar with the newer cars:

The 3rd gen trackers don't use auto hubs, the axles are engaged inside the diff by the vacuum pump, so if you just put manual hubs on, your front axles won't turn under power, you need to either put a locker in the front and go with the manual hubs, or replace the vacuum pump. You could also swap in an older front end, but that is a much bigger project.

So, it appears that its a bit more complicated than the cars on this side of the forum. Ah, that's progress for you. Try asking in the GV forum.

 

Thanks man I appreciate the help!!

 

Auto manual hub swap

So if I read this correct all I have to do is unbolt old autos and bolt on manual ones.. no snap ring? Nothing.. ? I found a clean working set locally of donor Zuni..

 

So I would be able to disgaurd the pump in the front bumper as well?

So if I read this correct all I have to do is unbolt old autos and bolt on manual ones.. no snap ring? Nothing.. ? I found a clean working set locally of donor Zuni..

Let me dispel any miss information of the 99 Tracker 4x4 system..

As supplied by the factory, the 4x system is comprised of a transfer case(Manual), a front driveshaft, front differential (AIR operated), 2 front short shafts and locked drive (front wheels to short shafts).

The 99 Tracker does not have

• auto locking hubs.
• Vacuum operated diff..

This is how it works,
Manual shift T/C to 4x,
the pump motor is activated and supplies ~7psi air pressure to the bellows in front diff, this locks the diff to the short shafts and drives the wheels..

Installing manual hubs will not eliminate the need for the air pump, but in the unlocked position will free the wheel rotation from the short shafts.

Now depending on what the issue and final disposition, there are ways to accomplish without replacing the front diff or installing a locker..

... Philip

 

Correct.

From what I understand it is the Sammy that you have to undo a snap ring. TracKicks are different. Unbolt and slide the whole hub off.

Be sure and get the bolts and hardware with the manual hubs as they are probably different.

Edit: the above information was in response to the previous post. The information is for 1989 to 1998 Trackicks ONLY.

 

Ok.. the reason I doubted was my locker will not turn all the way to lock position..

 

Sounds like you need to disassemble, clean, lightly lube and reassemble the manual hubs. You could just try taking apart and lubing the dial part, but if it is needing serviced, then probably the whole hub needs to be taken apart and cleaned and lubed.
You should be able to find some pics/diagrams on google, for how the hubs are assembled. But I would still recommend only working on one at a time, that way you can use the other one for reference, if you can't figure out how to put it back together.
Note that when you pop the dial out of the end cap, there will be a tiny little ball and spring that should be in the dial part. The ball "clicks" in the detents as you turn the dial to free and lock. They can go flying, when you pop the pieces apart, so you want to be careful and not lose either part.

It could also be the hub is put together wrong and not letting the dial turn all the way.

 

Check out the video i post #3 here:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-x/65993-96-manual-hub-stuck.html
If you have the original Aisin hubs, they can be cleaned and serviced - normally if you have problems, it is because they are loaded with dirt or have been greased way too heavily. The video shows you everything you need to know, if you have the hubs that are original to your car.

 

First thing in the am I'm taking the dial off.. it worked great before install.. I'm thinking something may be hitting.. first install I missaligned the the metal cap.. and one of the he teeth were catching.. so I'm hoping it something that simple.. thanks for all the help..

 

Here's what I'm working on.. https://postimg.org/image/nzx1yfjkl/

 

Looks like my car....same rims, same paint job, same problem with the top in that it no longer fits in the side clips at the tailgate......

 

Ok guys.. just walked in door from a little test drive..^_^ thanks for all the encouragement.. I disassembled the front hubs.. learned a valuable lesson..( got to start taking pictures.. ) ok.. I learned that I was alligning the the bolt holes wrong.. I learned to rotate the holes in the direction of the spring to maintain tightness .. I rotated to other direction ant it cause it to not be able to rotate fully.. now they work flawless.. now to determine if my ratios match.thats for my other thread..

 

Hopefully, while disassembling them, you cleaned them and lubed them as well - without overpacking them with grease, etc.....Glad you got it sorted.

 

Yes sir.. just a light coat of the multi purpose red grease so excited..

 

What are the torque settings for the bolts on the manual hubs and the smaller screws on the cap?

Thanks!

 

The FSM advises that the hub assembly bolts should be torqued to 18 ft/lbs and the bolts on the cover are 106 INCH/lbs.....