Clutch cables can be somewhat confusing, as there are many different types of them, different lengths, etc. On your car, you need the clutch cable with the rubber housing at the end of it, by the transmission. If you’ve confirmed that you’ve routed the cable correctly and you have the same housing (and not the older, lock nut type), I would measure your original cable, and measure the new one that you bought, to confirm that they are the same. Often times, replacement ones are not.

 

If you’ve confirmed that you’ve routed the cable correctly and you have the same housing (and not the older, lock nut type), I would measure your original cable, and measure the new one that you bought, to confirm that they are the same. Often times, replacement ones are not.

The routing had been the same since new.i replaced the cable once some time ago and it has since failed and I made sure to route the replacement the same correct way also.
I do not have the original to compare it to, just another brand of aftermarket that for all I know was wrong to begin with! I'm ordering a Suzuki cable from the stealership to be sure I have the correct cable.

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

I tried to set everything up by the book

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

Which book are you using? Do you have a FSM? Are you the original owner? Generally, unless the clutch pedal splines slip/strip or someone has been messing around with the factory settings, no need for under dash adjustment is required. Being a 96 you should not have splines on the pedal arm but a square end that is harder to damage.
You did not mention if your bulkhead is OK.
As Bex said you need the correct cable as it is usually the cause of clutch problems. There have been posts on here where previouly owner install the wrong cable and new owners are at a disadvantage to begin with.
B95

 

I'm not the original owner but have owned it since it was all original (only 2 years old, purchased at original selling dealership). I remember a while back the clutch cable got really stiff so I replaced it. Then shortly after that the clutch pedal weld broke and twisted off the pedal completely. I figured it was just fatigue so I replaced the pedal with a new one but did not replace the cable at that time. Fast forward to a week ago and my clutch had a complete failure due to a bad cable that I had over adjusted to get it to continue to function. I just looked at the pedal weld and it appears it has started to fail. The paint has flaked off at the weld so I'm thinking it got twisted between being over adjusted and the cable going bad. I'm going to remove it and check it very well. Perhaps have it rewelded. I'll check the whole assembly for cracks at the same time. The firewall is fine where the cable passes through.

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

Well I took a closer look at what's going on and I'm pretty sure the new cable is the problem.
The weld on the pedal is not broken, my eyes fooled me a bit. The paint wasn't flaking off, just a scratch from when it was installed. No other cracks or damage to brackets or firewall bulkhead.
I reset the pedal height to 5mm above the brake pedal then measured the distance it actually pulls the cable right where the cable hooks to the bracket. It was awkward but I measured 1-1/8" of throw. Does anyone know if this is sufficient? Measured the throw at the other end at the joint nut and only had 11/16" so bad cable right? It also has a spongy feel to it.
I'm going to order a Suzuki cable from the stealership just to be sure. They quoted me $83 and 3-5 days for it to be delivered.

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

I ordered the Suzuki cable as well - I’m in Ireland with a Geo Tracker....there are so many variables regarding these aftermarket cables, that I decided I didn’t want to have the hassle of getting the wrong one, etc. The main thing, of course, is to make sure that the cable end is either the rubber housing or locknut application - and Suzuki will have the proper cable, etc., for you. My original Suzuki cable lasted 170,000 miles, and was still good when it was changed out as a ‘maintenance’ repair...LOL. I don’t think that you can beat that.
By the way, the cable itself exerts an enormous amount of pressure - something lie 600 pounds - which can break the pedal weld or, more interestingly, actually crack the firewall where it comes through into the engine compartment. I’d check that firewall area in your car, to make sure it’s ok.

 

I’d check that firewall area in your car, to make sure it’s ok.

The firewall looks like new. No cracks, flex, corrosion or rust of any kind.

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

I got the new cable from Suzuki and installed it. However, I'm having the exact same issue trying to get it adjusted properly. It seems the only way I can get it to work is to have the pedal fully raised and remove just about all the slack from the lever arm on the transmission. I still only get about 3/4" of movement at the arm but it allows me to drive the car.
I'm not sure if it's related to the clutch system or the transmission rebuild but when driving the car I cannot get it into first until I'm just about stopped and when shifting either up or down into second gear it slightly grinds. All other gears go smooth. I've also noticed occasionally (mostly when it's cold and I first start driving) I get an angry bird chirp noise when the clutch is released and I begin to accelerate. It increases with speed and goes away when I push in the clutch pedal to shift but then comes back when the pedal is released again. It doesn't last long and once it stops I won't hear it again until after I let the car sit overnight again. Any ideas? This car is starting to drive me crazy again.... Remembering why I parked it 10 years ago....

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

I cannot get it into first until I'm just about stopped and when shifting either up or down into second gear it slightly grinds.


RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

1st gear doesn't have synchronizers so you have to be stopped before shifting into it.

Have you done a spin down test of the clutch?

From FSM, clutch section page 7C-3 Clutch "Spin Down" Time.
1. Run engine at normal idle with the transmission in neutral and clutch engaged.
2. Disengage the clutch (clutch pedal depressed), wait approximately nine seconds and shift into reverse.
3. If grinding noise is heard, check the clutch for engagement.

After performing the preliminary checks and checking clutch spin down time, refer to (fiqure2) "Clutch Diagnosis" to assist in proper diagnosis of clutch problems.



B95

 

First gear used to be synchronize before I had it rebuilt, and sometimes it goes in while moving with no problem. It never grinds into first, just either won't go or is tough to push into.
The spin down test passed. I can push in the clutch and shift almost immediately into reverse, no need to wait nine seconds.
It's the shifting into second gear that is really getting me concerned. Its just not right. If I shift it slowly it will grind terribly. If I shift it quickly it goes in without grinding but it's very rough. I think I may have to bring the car to the transmission shop that rebuilt the trans. Problem is I brought them the transmission to rebuild without the whole car so I feel like they may blame the issues on something else.


RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

I must correct myself as it is reverse that doesn't have a synco. The OM does states that you can shift into first under 20 mph but I have never done this, I have never had a need. There is also mention of DBL clutching to shift into first if there is a difficulty.


I believe that this is the first time that you said that you had this trans rebuilt. I think you answered your own question.
B95

 

Have you changed the fluid since the rebuild? Quick easy usually a good insight to what's going on inside that gearbox.

 

I have not changed the fluid since the rebuild. It only has around 400 miles on it. I did check the level recently and it was still up to the fill plug.


RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

Sounds to me like it's more of a clutch problem than an internal trans problem, especially with the issues of it going into gear while running. The clutch isn't fully releasing.

 

I'd like to think it's releasing fully. I tried depressing the clutch at highway speed (3500rpm) and the engine idled down to around 800- 900rpm or so. I can also shift it into 3,4, or 5 at that speed with the pedal depressed but it will not shift into 1 or 2. If it wasn't releasing it should have stayed at higher rpm? I'm thinking something went wrong with the rebuild. They had to replace the input shaft. I'm not familiar with the inner workings of this transmission. Are the first and second gears on the input shaft? Perhaps not pressed into the correct place? IDK but something is off.

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

Personally, I’d go back to whoever rebuilt the tranny, as it sounds like the synchro for 1st and 2nd isn’t correct. By the way, just as an aside, years ago, I was taught never to downshift to first, unless the car was practically stationary.

 

I don't typically downshift into 1st while moving but sometimes traffic is moving very slowly and 2nd is too high (lugs). I'm bringing it in to the rebuilder this weekend

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l

 

Didn't make it to the transmission shop this past weekend, however, I drained the fluid and replaced it with Redline MT-85. What a difference! Second gear no longer grinds, still feels a bit rough but no more grinding. I can also get it into first gear while still rolling, however, the transmission makes a sort of spooling up whining sound before it goes in fully. It's been a little over 50 miles since the fluid change and I think it's as good as it's going to get. I may still bring it by the transmission shop when I have the time but as for now time is not on my side!

RMIII
1996 Suzuki X-90 2wd manual 16valve 1.6l