Welcome to the world of 3G clutch bleeding. I have had success by bleeding as best as possible then wedging a block of wood between seat base and clutch pedal to hold it down about 1/2 way left overnight then bled again. Some bleed easily some take weeks.
Pressure, vacuum, gravity, doesn't matter, I have not found a reliable method that works every time
Yep, bad design

 

Welcome to the world of 3G clutch bleeding. I have had success by bleeding as best as possible then wedging a block of wood between seat base and clutch pedal to hold it down about 1/2 way left overnight then bled again. Some bleed easily some take weeks.
Pressure, vacuum, gravity, doesn't matter, I have not found a reliable method that works every time
Yep, bad design

We'll try that method when we work on my friend's 2009 Vitara. It's in the shop for the installation of the new set of tires from 4Wheelonline, plus the alignment. The previous owner did the bleeding and it's not 100%.

 

I’ve done this once and was going to write a procedure but I can’t be sure what worked and what didn’t. Vacuum drew in air, pressure did nothing useful. Since your car seems drivable from your description, you’re half way there.

When I managed to get it to that point I drove up and down steep local roads tapping the pedal lightly. That helped a lot plus I did leave the pedal partly depressed overnight as noted. Every day after that it just got better on its own.

 

Out of curiosity is there any angle you could park the vehicle on that might encourage air to move to a higher point ? For example parking with the front pointing down at a 45 degree angle ? Or something ?

 

It might help parking nose up but perhaps not as much as while driving. It seems to help when the fluid is moving back and forth in the line. As it does it perhaps the air bubbles tend to go upwards. The fact that the OP can drive at all means the trapped air remaining is minimal.

There's something weird about the plastic bleed valve. I could not get fluid to go in but it came out easily. Seems to have a check valve in it.

 

Ooohhh, nicer bit of wood than mine

 

I use an ice scrapper/snow brush

 

I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder and had major problems bleeding it, really annoying to deal with! i tried all tricks I could find on Youtube and elsewhere and this is what finally worked for me:

1. Take a big syringe, like the one in post #5 (mine is 100 ml), remove the plunger and hang the syringe by the bonnet somewhere.
2. Run a hose from bleeding nipple to syringe
3. Fill the whole hose with brake fluid (might have to take the hose off the nipple to let air out)
4. Fill reservoir with brake fluid
5. Open bleed nipple
6. Pump clutch pedal slowly several times and watch air bubbles make their way to the "container" = syringe
7. Repeat until no more air bubbles come through, watch the level in the reservoir and fill if necessary.
8. Close bleed nipple and you should have a working clutch again

I fought with this for half a day and got nowhere, but this method worked in 10 minutes. Can't guarantee it'll work for You but thought I'd share what worked for me

 

Sounds daft but I'm new to all this, where's the bleed nipple? (2010 2.4)

 

Sounds like something is wrong, start with a bleed.

 

If you are using a mechanical bleeder and experiencing air intrusion at the nipple, remove the nipple and coat threads with grease, reinsert and your air leak will be gone..

 

where is clurch resavoir in the vehicle

 

Which vehicle? If its a 3G grand vitara, i think its shared with the brake resivoir