I am not familiar with your model IAC, but normally they have a ‘pulsing’ action depending on the duty cycle which controls the vacuum that runs through it. In the older IAC’s, the bench testing for them is very specific, where you apply 12v to them for only ONE second to see if they are responding, and then allowing the sensor to rest for 10 seconds before trying again. You may wish to try that on the bench, but again, I’d follow the caution for the older IAC’s. With the IAC installed, it is possible to check which wire would be the ground or 12v coming to it, but normally you would need an oscilloscope in order to actually track the opening/closing of the sensor.
Regarding the A/C leaking into the cabin, normally that is condensate rather than A/C refrigerant. Fordem’s last post inthis thread might be helpful:

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/threads/air-con-leaks-in-the-cabin.272983/?post_id=1587817#post-1587817

I have no info about your clock, but assume in order to diagnose it, you would have to get behind it to check wiring, etc.

 

Thanks!
I've been playing around with it a bit and did find some odd things.
For one, it seems my car either didn't come with an EGR or has had an EGR delete.

It looks like the EGR port has been blocked with a fairly factory looking plate. The port you look straight at from this picture that normally has the line running to the other side of the intake manifold also seems to be blocked (at least not open).
I also seem to be missing a MAP sensor. Normally this would be on top of the intake manifold but again I have a factory looking blanking plate instead.

When I look my car up on Partsouq I also find this blanking plate so again, might be factory but does that mean my car runs without MAP sensor?
I do have a blank plug on the harness that would go to either the EGR or MAP I suppose.

Now back to the IAC valve.
The connector on the wiring harness is completely shot, this means that the pins can also move, a bad connection might be at least part of my problem. Does anyone know where I could source this kind of plug.
I've now very carefully aligned all the pins and hope the connection is good, will report car behavior after a test drive.
I did find a reasonably priced IAC that I can have shipped here so I ordered that (will probably take about 5 weeks to get here).

On the other small issues, I had a small leak in the bulkhead fitting of the AC lines, some new O-rings fixed that but unfortunately I have high compressor pressure, If I want to get it totally right it would mean I have to swap the compressor (and condensor and AC Core). Car is probably not worth it so I'll just see how it will behave the coming period.

The clock on my dash seems to be part of the internal computer (that in some models also regulates the keyless entry etc). Probably something faulty there. No rush to investigate further especially since all my tools are still in a shipping container coming this way.

 

Your location is showing as in Aruba - it was quite common for these cars in the Caribbean to be Africa market models with no EGR or MAP sensors, you may also find that it does not an O2 sensor

 

You are absolutely right. No O2 sensor either.
Funny that they decided to ship Africa spec cars to Aruba.
My temp fix of the IAC plug didn't work unfortunately. I have a new (second hand) plug coming from the Netherlands in October and a new (cheap amazon) IAC ordered.

I was thinking about the lack of O2 sensor and with that the lack of a feedback loop in the system.
The car idles very low because the IAC doesn't work, the computer however most likely thinks it is working as it has send it's signal to change the pintle position and apart from the RPM's doesn't have any way to measure it's effectiveness.
I noticed a very rich mixture smell on idle and I think this coupled to the above.
Computer sees a low idle or the activation of for instance the AC requesting a hire idle. Sends signal to retract IAC pintle to IAC and sends more fuel (as it also expects more air). Since there is no O2 sensor the computer doesn't know that there is actually no extra air added to the mixture but it does see a low idle, probably leading to a continues loop where it constantly tries to retract the pintle and add fuel without effect (except for a richer mixture).

Anyway, hope to fix it with a new IAC and IAC plug, also ordered a ODB Bluetooth reader so will be downloading the Torque app to check wat that can tell me although it will be a bit limited due to less sensors.

 

Small update on the car.
Turns out my Ambient air temperature sensor is missing. This explains the strange -50 temp displayed on my dash and the continues blinking of the clock. I am also missing the last little pigtale so that's a bit of a shame as it both parts are fairly expensive.
I'll most likely just insert a resistor in the plug that roughly corresponds with 30 degrees celcius (more or less always that temperature here) and I'll be done with it.

Still haven't resolved my IAC issues though. Have a new second hand connector coming this way in 2 weeks so hope that helps. I've just set the IAC now so the idle is high enough to keep the car running also when the AC is connected. Works but is terrible for gas mileage and I can imagine I am running fairly rich now which is also not that great for the plugs.

Some newly discovered small things to resolve. All my front CV boots are ripped, have new ones coming in 2 weeks.
Right steering rack boot is also torn. I have a new one but I can't get the tie rod end from the steering rack. Got it off the hub easily enough, with quite a lot of force I also got the jamnut loose but the tie rod is still 1 with the steering rack. Have and will be soaking it in penetrant the coming days/weeks and will try again.

 

I'm missing something here, you don't need to get the tie rod out of the steering rack to replace the boot. Loosen the jam nut, unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod, unscrew the jam nut from the tie rod, counting the turns so you can refit it later, replace the boot & reassemble.

If you need to replace the tie rod itself, it's usually not difficult to remove from the rack, once you straighten the bent over sections of the lock.

 

As you can see the jam nut is already loosened (a bit after a lot of effort).
This is with everything back together of course while it was more apart when I tried to get the tie rod end off but my point is that the tie rod end doesn't unscrew
That's also why I am OK with driving it a bit like this, would normally not advice to do so with a loose jam nut.
Hope to get the tie rod end unstuck by soaking it in penetrant and will apply some heat too.

 

Took me a moment to find the correct empty plug. Since my version is an 'African spec' it's lacking a lot of sensors and I have quite a bit of unused plugs in the engine bay. I also did a (too) quick google regarding the sensor location and it initially pointed me to the left of the car. Found an empty plug but eventually that turned out to be the wrong one. Anyone know where this plug would normally go to? There is also what looks like a bundle of wires connected together? Don't know if this is standard and with all the overspray it's made more difficult to determine what it is.

Eventually found the plug on the right side of the car, next to a big unused plug which I think would normally be involved in the whole EGR/Recirculation system.

Bought a 2kOhm resistor for 1 Aruban guilder (about 70 dollar cents). Plugged it in the empty ambient outside temperature connector and the temp display now reads a nice 23 degrees and the clock stopped blinking and can be adjusted again. Win!

 

If that connector was empty, there's a good chance that someone disconnected it and you will probably find the original sensor attached to a bracket somewhere behind the grille.