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'98 JA22W Check Engine Code Diagnostic

88 views 17 replies 3 participants last post by  Bex  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello!

The Check Engine light has come on, so I'm trying to determine the cause. Note: It has been running rich (gas smell in exhaust and oil), so I recently disconnected, inspected, and cleaned some of the sensors (O2, MAP, throttle, temp, etc) to see if anything caught my attention. It was after this that the Check Engine light came on.

As far as I can tell, the OBD port is located on the driver side (RHD - Japanese model), under the dash, above the driver's right knee. The connector is 16-pin with 3 wires leading into it, one in the top row (centerish) and two in the left and right most positions in the bottom row.

Based on the information I've been able to find, I need to use the jump method for getting the diagnostic code. I've:
  1. Plugged a paper clip into the top terminal and bottom left terminal of the OBD port
  2. Turned the ignition to ON (engine off)
  3. The Check Engine light remains steady on (does not blink).
Since I've found conflicting codes and processes, I also tried:
  1. Turned the ignition back to OFF
  2. Moved the paper clip from the bottom left terminal to bottom right terminal
  3. Turned the ignition to ON (engine off)
  4. Check Engine light remains steady on (does not blink)
  5. Turned the ignition back to OFF
  6. Jumped the bottom left and bottom right terminals
  7. Turned the ignition to ON (engine off)
  8. Check Engine light remains steady on (does not blink)
What I'm trying to determine now is whether or not the jump method is working. If so, the only reference I can find for a solid Check Engine light says ECM error.

However, I'm also under the impression I have a non-OBD2 K6A, and the reference I found for that says code 55 is ECM error. It does not mention anything for a solid Check Engine light.

This leaves me with a few questions:
  1. Am I doing this right?
  2. Am I resetting the ECM correctly? I disconnected the battery, pressed the brake, reconnected the battery. Perhaps I'm not letting it sit disconnected for long enough?
  3. If it is an ECM error, what is the next step?
Thanks in advance for any help!
 
#2 ·
One - In a nutshell, you're inserting your paperclip into the wrong connector, whatever your source of information is, it would/should have made it clear that you're looking for either a 4 or a 6 pin connector and not the 16 pin OBD connector.

Two - No, I can't tell you where to find the correct connector, I've never even seen a JA22W Jimny, what I can tell you is shorting pins in random connectors is an excellent way to let the magic smoke out of expensive, hard to replace electronic components, and in fact, I'd be quite surprised if you haven't blown at least a fuse - is the dome light still working?

The top pin would have been either #4 or #5 (there are numbers on the connector), one is logic ground, the other chassis ground, the bottom pins would have been #9 (DLC - diagnostic link) and #16 (+12V power). Jumpering the top pin (ground) to both of the bottom pins, one by one, short circuits the 12V line to ground.

Resetting the ECU - this is done in most cases by disconnecting the battery and leaving it disconnected for a period of time (no need to depress the brake pedal), the period of time is determined by temperature, five to ten minutes is usually more than enough - that said, if the fault you created, what ever it is, has not been fixed, the ECU will "re-detect" it, immediately on power on and turn the check engine light back on.

If the engine still starts & runs, you probably haven't damaged the ECU.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Thank you for the response, fordem.

I looked again and was able to find two, black, 6-pin connectors, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side. I assume I'm looking for a connector that has 4 or 6 pins, is mostly accessible, and not connected to anything else. Does that sound correct? For what it's worth, I did look through this service manual and attempt to locate the appropriate connector, but nothing is standing out based on Google translations.

The driver-side connector has two wires. The passenger-side connector has three wires. And then there is the OBD connector with three wires. Considering the location of the wires for all three, none seem to be what I'm looking for and I can't for the life of me find any other connector that seems likely.

For what it's worth, I've also looked at the following references:
 
#4 ·
Image


Find this page (#28) in the Japanese Jimny manual you linked to, and then go down one more page to this one (#29)

Image


If you have an android based smartphone, you can use google translate and the phone camera to translate from Japanese to English, and the E28 connector is listed as the EPI & AT diagnostic monitor coupler. As far as I can tell it's a "6-pin" connector with 5 of the 6 cavities populated, unfortunately I have no idea which wire gets shorted to what.

Image


It's going to be black to one of the other four, it's not the V/Y (violet & yellow) that is the check engine light

Good luck
 
#6 ·
View attachment 123882

Find this page (#28) in the Japanese Jimny manual you linked to, and then go down one more page to this one (#29)

View attachment 123883

If you have an android based smartphone, you can use google translate and the phone camera to translate from Japanese to English, and the E28 connector is listed as the EPI & AT diagnostic monitor coupler. As far as I can tell it's a "6-pin" connector with 5 of the 6 cavities populated, unfortunately I have no idea which wire gets shorted to what.

View attachment 123884

It's going to be black to one of the other four, it's not the V/Y (violet & yellow) that is the check engine light

Good luck
Hmm. I'll take a look. I've been under the impression from every reference I can find that the diagnostic port is located inside the cabin, behind the dash, driver side, so I did not look at those in the engine compartment. As mentioned, I had been using Google translate, but only on the connectors located in the cabin.

Thanks!
 
#8 ·
It might be a good idea to grab whatever JA22W manuals you can from Jimny Style, even if it means purchasing them.

View attachment 123885
This is your monitor coupler and you jumper A to C.

This is from Supplement #5, 42-48404
Amazing! I'll take a look in the morning at the coupler as well as purchasing the manuals. Thank you!
 
#7 ·
The monitor coupler on the vehicles I have owned or worked on have all been in the engine compartment, this is a different connector to the OBD connector which is usually under the dash near the steering wheel - the OBD connector does work if you have a reader/scanner than communicates using Suzuki's SDL protocols but those are not that common.
 
#11 ·
Interesting, as it appears that the Jimny of this ‘generation’ has the same diagnostic connector, same wires to be jumped, same codes, etc. The TPS signal is acceptable to the ECU when it shows a voltage of 0.5v-5v depending on the position of your throttle pedal. The code 22 appears when the ECU is getting a signal of 0.2 voltage for 5 seconds. As you advise that you are getting a code 12, then 22, etc., check the gray wire from the TPS, which is the signal wire feeding the ECU.
 
#14 ·
Ah, thank you. I have absolutely no info or experience with the Jimny so that was interesting to find out.
 
#15 ·
I'm posting here since the DTC 22 error ended up being the result of me incorrectly slotting the TPS back onto the throttle body. A rather embarrassing and irritating error, to be honest. It was only by chance, after removing the TPS for the 5th time and thoroughly confused as to why no amount of calibration was having an effect, that I wondered if it was actually possible to incorrectly slot the TPS back onto the throttle body. Answer: Yes.

This should be the first step in troubleshooting a DTC 22 if someone has removed and reattached the TPS. Up until that moment I was convinced the TPS was no longer functional.
 
#16 ·
The first step with troubleshooting a code 22 or 21 should probably be checking the wiring, as these are codes regarding voltage. The second step should probably be researching how to calibrate the TPS, rather than just shoving it back on…lol. It can be ‘embarrassing and irritating’, for example, to set up your distributor incorrectly….that’s why there are instructions on how to do it.
 
#17 · (Edited)
It's incredibly presumptuous to think I did zero research, on either the TPS or DTCs, before performing any work or troubleshooting. I understand why checking voltages is a common first step given the code(s) in question. That said, what I was communicating is that there are quick and simple sanity checks that can be performed as a first step before getting a meter involved and going down a path that can lead to a false positive regarding the state of the TPS. Kind of like ensuring the power cable is plugged into a device and that you've "turned it off and on again" before moving on to more technical steps.

My remark that it was "irritating" is in the fact that it's even possible to incorrectly reseat the TPS onto the throttle body. Perhaps I take for granted how thoughtfully and well designed modern products are, which often seek to reduce or eliminate the potential for mistake.
 
#18 ·
Presumptuous perhaps, but surely there are diagrams, videos and instructions to read, look at and follow, before reinstalling the TPS??