[ace400]

Plugs, wirI'd es and rotor

Plugs, wires and rotors changed this morning. Starting and idling are same as before. The wires looked to be in very good condition. The plugs were in need of replacement but nothing really notable about them (the plugs I put in are a slightly colder version Denso K20RU replacing the Denso K16RU, K20RU is the manufacturer and auto parts store recommended plug). The rotor was worn and corroded. Still working on the dist. cap, but by inspection, it appears not to be an issue. I found one on the island, I just have to go get it.

I still haven't found an E-code but I'll keep looking. It has stalled on me several times in the last several days when I slow to an idle, especially when I am in a parking lot situation. When it is just idling it sounds like it is hunting. The RPM's go up and down every once in a while it feels/sounds like a misfire.

J

 

[ace400]

i read your island has the highest rated beach in the world.
way to go.!

Grand Anse Beach is rated as one of the prettiest beaches in the world, but I am not much of a beach goer. I love the ocean, but too many resorts and tourists in that area for my taste.

It's funny, these Escudos are all over this island, by far the most common vehicle here, and it is still difficult to find someone that can fix them.

J

 

[jtgh]

no problem , just the engine and controls count.
there are many export Sidekick type vehicles exported from japan and
all have diff. smog, throttle body, sensors, dizzy.
finding the E number is the best , I think it means export number.
The parts list goes buy this sacred number.


best is tune up (cheapest and most common fix) then after that diagnose problem.
if any.
doing backwards, this ,wastes tons of money and labor.

sensors on this car go for $200 a pop and we dont want to replace then willy nilly.

after tune up ,tell is what does corrent and wrong.
hot and cold , starting and running.

did you get a new fuel filter? I forget.

 

[ace400]

did you get a new fuel filter? I forget.

Fuel filter was replaced several months ago. I may go ahead and change it again.

I will scour to car from top to bottom again today and look for that E code. Perhaps its on the door.

J

 

[ace400]

Still no progress on this after all this time and it is getting worse. One of the posts mentioned no misfires and that is not entirely true. It does feel like it misfires from time to time, but not consistently. I'm hoping to get this nailed down in the next couple of weeks. I have scoured this thing from top to bottom and have found no E-code.

Here is where we left it based on the original list jtgh posted:

1; a real tune up. ( HOT, well timed spark will result)
- tune up performed, but timing not set
2: The IAC valve opens properly and is not clogged, this provides air to start.
- this seems like a possibility judging from the RPM test performed
3: EGR not stuck open with carbon chunk. ( yours is opposite)
- mine might be clogged shut
4: good compresion and cam timing.
- not checked, but head gasket recently replaced
5: perfect fuel pump pressure at the injector rail.
- not checked
6: injectors not cogged up or there tiny internal screens (10micron in size)
- not checked
7: ECU is good. ( your could be intermittant. and in hot summers you caps are bad)
- my ECU is different and looks pretty good. returns a 12
8: ECT is bad. (stuck at HOT all the time will fail cold starts)
- not sure about this one

My goal is to at least get the timing checked and possibly the fuel pressure but I may to resort to a crude fuel check because I haven't been able to find anyone with the equipment to check the pressure. One of those disadvantages to living on a small island.

If anyone wants to give me some direction, I am all ears.

J

 

[jtgh]

that's a tough row to hoe (farmer talk)
I keep asking my self what would i do. (buy a moped? ) hheheheeheheh

lets start over.
what does the engine do good?
what does the engine do bad?
hot and cold ( not the weather , the cold engine and the fully 200deg, hot engine)
does the engine reach properoperating temperature?


Keep in mind what a car does good , can be a clear indication of what is wrong.
one more question, when the car is cold ,can you drive off and have full power.

one more, sorry, if car runs bad at all times , hot or cold, can you make it run right
hot, by using wide open throttle, Pedal to the metal , test. Full power in WOT ?

forget the E number as yours is a fully Japan local car, the engine cab sticker is probably
100% written in Japanese and is not an export model.
so it is an Asia model. beats me cuz never saw one.

one last question:
if engine acks funny, does it bog, simple loss of power, or does it buck ?

2 distinct ways to loose power , bogging and bucking .
usually the former is lack of fuel and the latter is loss of spark.
i can tell it , in an instant.
but you must relate this to me.

happy spring.

 

[ace400]

I realize it has been almost a year since I last updated this thread, but I wanted to thank everyone for your help and complete the record on this vehicle.

I have not been with this car since last May when I left the island, but my girlfriend has been driving it. The hard starting finally got to the point where I was concerned it wasn't going to start at all because it would take 10 tries sometimes to get it started so I had one of the larger shops on the island take a look at it. I had previously been hesitant to spend a bunch of money troubleshooting this thing, but it told them to see what they could find out in a couple of hours. At first they couldn't find a problem either but it was eventually determined that the crankshaft was worn out which was causing the slot where the Woodruff key sits to be enlarged and thus throwing off the timing. I don't think the rest of the vehicle is worth a new engine or a new crankshaft so it will most likely become a parts car when the engine goes completely, but the shop performed a temporary fix by using a bigger key and also I believe using some epoxy. It is starting and running much better now so we will see how long it lasts, but she only needs it for another month or so and it will only be used for short trips in that time.

This is all being described to me over the phone and email so I may have some of the details off.

Ace

 

[jtgh]

thanks for update
another dead crank snout.
we get 25 a year here, maybe more.

another trick is to :
put in a wider and or deeper key. (off other forum)
or
put a key on the back side and mark the bottom cog , accordingly.

next time torque it to 94 ft/lbs ,like TSB shows.


next time, freeze the timing with the jumper and see it jumps around ,bad snout.
or
check the 17mm crank bolt torque of all side kicks made from 89 to 98 (our range)
this can be done with a torsion beam torque wrench) (scales)
one , tries to tighten the bolt and see exactly how much torque it takes to move bolt. (5th gear, or tranny in park)
then if below 50lbs. panic. (full inspection)

i bet yours was 10 ft/lbs.

really everyone should do this.
after the t-belt swap and again after 1 mile.
or on any newly garaged KICK (used buy)

just like we do lug bolts.
once, and around the block and check 1 more time.

 

[jtgh]

see this

i think one can pull the bolt 17mm
then with mirror and flash light ,inspect it. a 30min procedure.

you cant actually see key in snout of crank this way
but you can see key in cog and look for damage.
any non squarness , the pull the cog (belt first)

cheers

i post this as i see many readers are curious.